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I have a BX1850 with the FEL and MMM. Runs and operates perfectly. ONLY ONE DOWN SIDE ----------- PLASTIC fenders, hood . The sun will eat that plastic up to the point if you touch it, it will crack!!! the xx50 series tractors are fantastic - the plastic parts are expensive to replace too.

Yeah that may be true - but a farmer friend of mine always reminded me ..........cars and trucks are money wasters ....... a tractor is a money maker!!!

As Russell said - check that clutch safety switch - I had the same problem on one of my B7100's

Has IT always been there? OR has it gone up over time? Looking it up - that is spot on btw

This may help: belt https://www.amazon.com/WQSING-16883-97010-266-107-Compatible-BX25DLB/dp/B0BT9JJF8N

As we say down south - "you overcooked your grits!" I would chance oil and filter as soon as possible. That heat may or may not have affected the oil - but it would be smart to change them.

I am guessing here , but the pulley on the crank is a bit bigger than the dyno pulley - so at high idle I would say 2500 rpms would be a good test rpm. Just a guess

no...that would be bad. TYPICALLY dynos are bullet proof - did you try combos of the wires?

To check your dyno - If you have it off, place in a vise and use a drill and socket to spin it, otherwise place on the belt and have the wires in hand and start. PLACE your meter on AC volts - NOT DC - and let her spin. AS for the wires - I do not remember the colors of each, but taking any...

First - lets not assume that "here only has "garden tractors"," - case is not true all all. AS mentioned in another post - you do what you think is best in your situation - if it works for you that is the only thing that really matters. AS for your wish to close this post - naw, all is good...

As North Idaho Wolfman said - do not hook to dyno - that is producing AC only !!! Are you using an Analog gauge or digital? I have found the cheap digitals do NOT last very long. Then again money talks and the rest walks

BRR, check with Daryl - @Mountainman Kubota Salvage Yard www.mossycreekoutdoors.com

They look like registration marks, explain: " I hope I'm changing head gasket for tiniest of radiator bubbles. "

Have you checked or replaced air filter? RPM in neutral at WOT? High gear? geared or HST?

Jim, I have the exact SAME problem on a similar engine ( D750-AH ) I have 40+ psi cold, and a high idle it will be 18-20 hot - at low idle, it will drop off to damn near zero. I thought I had a hydraulic fluid getting into the oil - but that would not drop the viscosity as much as it was...

You nailed it - I as a former teacher, I could not have explained it better!

More to the story:

That 186 at the bottom outlet is a huge problem - you should have 100 degree (F) drop. - clean that radiator INSIDE and OUTSIDE ...... Empty and and fill with vinegar and run and empty and repeat - all with distilled water, last round JUST distilled water, Then fill with the ol 50-50. Outside...

One word !!! B r i l l i a n t

Daryl - could this be a harmonic thing? At a certain rpm a piece of metal vibrates? And once the rpm changes that harmonic is smoothed out? I have a BX1850 and once started at idle is shakes and rattles - just small adjustment of throttle it purrs like a kitten.