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The hydraulic pressure thing I think is going to keep me from running it on the kubota for now. I bought shims for the kubota a while back but haven't tried changing. Maybe a slight boost in pressure on that would be enough I have checked the pressure on it and I think maybe it was over 2000...

I tried my cutter out today for a while. I cut one that was almost 4" thru. The pictured was was about 2-1/2. it works quite well but, Before this I tried it with my 8N which I have a self installed front mount pump, tank and 2 spool valve. I use this for snow plowing as it predates my buying...

Your idea is bouncing around in my head too! The cutter has a built in spring loaded thumb operated valve which is designed to run with the source flow in one direction and continually bypasses the flow when that is in the center like any valve. I want to see if I can just hold the operating...

I have found what you say when I cut a maple sapling off close to the ground, it has a crown of those little suckers! I do run a mower thru the trails but those cut saplings are to be avoided. That is part of my plan to cut loose or lower those somehow so no mower damage and not having to get...

It is the Hurst jaws of life cutter. From late 70's or there about. It weighed in the 40's for shipping. The fire department I was in had a different brand made by Lucas. I am working on a method of using it with a hand truck so it is upright vertical and will cut the exposed roots on my dog...

So I had this idea to make a root cutter for when I am digging a stump or the tripping ones on the trails in my woods. I figured a hydraulic cylinder and some kind of weld up with a cutting edge. Then I had a flash back to my vol fireman days and our Lucas tool. So I thought maybe look them up...

I miss your down in the trenches stories and pictures. It often reminded me of my years working in the building trades, being in a trench for plumbing or utility . I really liked doing electrical services best. Bill

That is not being lazy, that is working smart! Lazy would be carrying them and complaining of your being back sore because you were too lazy to get the tractor out! It is a good return on an investment! Bill

I did use the tractor about a week ago as a hand truck to move a new freezer into the basement! I strapped it to the forks so I didn't have any problems going around the house on the sloping lawn. Love my orange appliance cart! Bill

I had a lightning struck cherry less than it's height from the road, so I didn't want it falling that way. I used that method with a cable and a come a long to contain and then pull it. I always take up the slack in the cable, cut my notch, tighten the cable a little and then do my back cut. I...

My finished design. A long screwdriver thru the eye bolt up to the large hitch mounting bolt works really well to start the pin out. Putting the pin in works well in the normal fashion where you hold up the lower link. But I don't have to struggle to line up the hole for the bolt threads now. Bill

Thanks RWS, I have a mod in mind since I made this and I still need to make the second one . I was thinking about the place to pry the main pin out and I think maybe welding a chain link in the center of the main pin would give me a grip and I could put a screwdriver thru that and the tip on the...

OK RWS, I couldn't get it out of my head today. Like the guy in Dirty Harry, "I just got to know" so I made one of my idea. I had some m10-1.5 bolts so I started my m10-1.25 die and when it started cutting the smooth area I made about 5/8" of new thread. Then I cut off the damaged thread area...

I looked at the bolts in there now, I believe they are 10mm-1.25. with 13 mm of thread. Kind of an odd one. I searched mcmaster, grainger, global and fastenal. And of course ebay and bolt suppliers there. There are a few studs with that thread but not much with a smooth area. I think it was...

I mentioned earlier in your thread that the OEM design with bolts probably is also to keep the pins from rotating and causing wear to the castings. All the wear is on the pins where the link balls ride. Your design is going to allow the pins to rotate in the castings now. I could be totally...

Sorry i wasn't clear, What I was trying to say was clearing the loader when it was forward and maybe forgotten. I know my loader will miss when the guard is forward or back in normal position but if something was mounted on the front of the factory guard it can't stick out too far. Does that...

My guard tips forward to open the hood. Did you maybe leave yours forward? I know that it won't hit with my homemade guard as I checked that when building it See it was close and made mine go between the factory uprights. I have moments where I forget how close something is. I like to leave my...

I think that that what is used on the sway links. I would want to position it with the hole vertical to minimize the chance of it getting knocked out . Also I would allow room for a washer There is a style of hair pin clips that has a hump to help retain that. I would think the reason why that...

What if you used a longer high grade bolt, cutting the head off and drilled thru the smooth part for a "hair pin" style clip to retain the link pin.? The threads could be locktited and their length would be determined by the cast area they are in. That would leave the smooth part for the link...