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I actually did ask an authorized Kubota spokesperson and of course was given the company policy response - they only recommend Kubota oil.

I've been told more than once by one local dealer that Kubota told them that synthetic oil should never be used in a Kubota engine. The dealer could not give me a reason why. The weren't pushing Kubota oil, use any good brand diesel oil, just don't use synthetic Doesn't make sense to me, and...

Even in the warmer weather my glow plugs will come on initially, but they won't stay on nearly as long as in the winter.

Mine are on a timer. I believe the ECU measures the coolant temperature and determines how long to have them on. I let go through the first cycle and once they go off, I then turn the key off and back on through another glow plug cycle. Once they go off the second time I start the engine...

I cycle my glow plugs twice in the winter before starting the engine and it does start quicker. Don't need to do that with warmer weather. I do wonder however if it will overheat the glow plugs and cause them to fail sooner.

Me too, although I did get a round diesel fuel stain on my pants once.

I am looking into a 3-point hitch flail mower on my L5740HSC-3 tractor and am considering one that has a hydraulic cylinder to offset the mower to the side of the tractor. What would I need to add to my tractor hydraulic system to provide this capability? I have a hydraulic coupler off the back...

And also, what do you mean by centered?

I shade tree (garage) but if I could afford it, I would hand over the jobs I don't have the tools for. But prefer and try to find or make the tools to do everything myself. Boy has that got me in trouble :rolleyes:

I have some ratcheting snap ring pliers and I find them very helpful.

Did the colored tie wraps too, very helpful. However, I recently noticed that over time the colors are fading and it's hard to tell what color they are o_O Time for a re-do

Engineer: The glass is twice as big as it needs to be.

If I have the owners or service manual online, I also insert links in the maintenance item to the section of the manual. For example, for an oil change listing per the PM I have a link that will go to the oil change procedure in the manual.

Same here, I have an old computer in my garage with maintenance records on all my equipment. Also includes specs, torques, and other information added as I perform certain procedures with notes on how it was done. All backed up of course.

Yes, the cab stays attached to the rear of the tractor. I wish I had taken pictures.

The propeller shaft seal and some other parts were changed that were updates Kubota made to help prevent another leak. The WSM mentions to remove the cab as part of the tractor splitting instructions, and that was how the first dealer does it. However, the dealer that did the work told me it...

Had mine replaced last fall on my L5740 cab tractor. Got a price from one dealer for about $4000. They said the cab would have to be removed to split the tractor and that they also always change the clutch and throw-out bearing while in there. Second dealer was $2200. They said they can split...

Agree, not a stupid question at all if you don't know the answer. Better than not asking and being stupid and filling it to mark 1 ;)

Mark 2 is the correct full level. Oil should never be above mark 2 or below mark 3. If you fill it to mark 1 you will have some big problems!

Don't know the correct terminology, but I've seen some tractors with a lever to control the 3-point hitch from in back of the tractor. Is there a kit or something that I can add to my L5740 cab tractor? Sure would be easier than having to go back to the cab lever.