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And yes it absolutely necessary to split it and remove everything as you go, because the front axle frame is attached to the sides of the engine, and removing the motor, requires it to come off.

Excellent you are way ahead of the game! Ok I would get a shoe mount and alter that to subframe except the shoe. That would give you the best of all worlds, as you could use both implements.

Try the new water based spray polys, they are an incredible finish.

Just for the record he did state just north of Phoenix in the desert, and I do know all of that area very well, lived there for 21 years.

Does it have a third function valve on it?

The issue your going to have is they never made a shoe hitch for that tractor. That tractor also takes a subframe to make it work and almost all the shoe hitches were frame mount. Then you will have to fabricate the Mid PTO drive for it, and those parts are not easy to find.

Danish oil will blend colors and perk it right up.

UDT hydraulic oil will work for the PS. The cheapest WSM I've found...

Foam filling will fix the flat issues, it will help a little with traction as they are then weighted too. A heavier ply tire does not really help with punctures just load carrying.

It's not a widespread issue that I know of, just the normal few rare cases.

When it rains it softens right up and potholes and ruts form super fast and then they stay that way if you don't fix them. Quick attach for the BH bucket.

A good land place has the same cutting blade as box blade. And a good land plane will have scarfers like a box blade. Yes AZ ground is as hard as concrete.

Yes that will work, I like the ones with the primer lever too!

You don't want a box blade to maintain a driveway / Road, you want a land plane. One thing to note: A tractor that has only 500 hours yet has sat out in the AZ sun and baked might need as much as a 2500 hour tractor that hasn't been baked in the sun.

No, the diverter valve will be a poor choice for a feed location because it would require you to engage the three point lever all the time. If you do not have the diverter block on the tractors hydraulic line, all the talk of getting the cover (tap block) to bolt onto it is pointless. So do as...

The three point and the BH are controlled by a swing pump. Have you verified that the change over levers are in the proper position?

Yea I just buy the whole pump.

Before you tear into it, it's not uncommon for that design to get rusted up on the input shaft making the detents seam non existent, try some good spay lube here in yellow.

Is the loader connected to the round plate (hydraulic block) on the right side? Check to make sure feedback linkage is working properly.