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Thank you for your reply. Yes, each valve had a shim and I reinstalled them exactly as I found them. I originally did put a gasket on, but later removed it.

Long story short, I replaced my clutch. While apart, I pulled the motor and installed a few gaskets, removed carbon on valves & cylinder tops, replaced valve seals, and set valve clearance 0.008”. I also ended up dis-assembling the injection pump and running parts through my ultrasonic...

I came across your post a while ago, after my pressure plate lost a "finger". Glad to hear your tractor is running! The finger seized EVERYTHING up instantly...it was lodged between the "bellhousing" and flywheel. This was my first time working on a tractor. I ended up removing the engine...

Well it’s definitely corroded inside the injection pump body, just enough to stick two delivery valves and the control rack. I got everything apart without damages and they are going into my sonic parts cleaner. Might need input on how to orient plungers/delivery valves vs the control rack...

Thank you for your reply. I cranked it for a while, about 10-15 seconds several times over. Continued this after one delivery valve had some fuel bubbling out. Nothing ever flowed out of the other two delivery valves. I removed the pump body this evening. I found the two dry delivery valve...

Absolutely zero fuel is discharging from the rear most two injection pump delivery valves. The forward-most valve just kinda bubbles out. Is valve clearance related to the injection pump? Maybe I errored when I adjusted the valves. When an exhaust valve pushrod started to raise, I set the...

I finally got back working on this. I pulled the motor and the head and looked everything over. Sleeves and pistons look great. My gasket kit came with valve stem seals, so I will check if the valves need lapped (NOT with a drill). I will set the valve clearance at 0.008" as you said. The...

I have the clutch housing exposed and clean. How are the throw out bearing, holder and input shaft removed? I removed the a pin at the other end of the shaft, but now what? I plan on replacing the front seals too.

I was trying to find out why my 750d engine seized. In the process, I removed the head cover, push rods, rockers, and head. Everything was fine. The weather was turning bad so I quickly put the head and cover on, finger tight, but not the push rods or rocker. Next day, I split the tractor...

Thx! And I split it without removing the loader. I lowered the bucket and placed jack stands under the loader frame (near the foot pads). Removed the required stuff, slid a floor jack under the rear “cross member”, removed the frame bolts, and pushed/wiggled the rear half backwards….took...

Well, I finally split my tractor tonight…and found at least one pressure plate finger snapped and bound up the flywheel, which locked up the crank. The crank turns now. Whew! Gonna replace the clutch, P plate, TO bearing, pilot bushing, and perhaps have the flywheel turned. Wish me luck!

Jim,, My loader is controlled by the fuel cam. But Northern Idaho Wolfman mentioned there’s a slight possibility it is locked up.

Northern Idaho Wolfman, Thank you for your reply. My son and I just took the head off, and carefully pulled the injector pump along with the front plate at the end of the fuel cam shaft. Like you indicated, it looked great. No metal pieces, no marks on the gears…clean as a whistle. Valves...

Bill, Thanks for the reply. I removed the belt, so nothing (ie water pump) else can influence the crank rotation. I do have the shop service manual. I’m gonna see how the injector pump is activated. Not sure if it has a timing chain or gear to gear connection with the crank. As I am...

I did not depress the clutch while trying to turn the crank, but your edit makes sense. Regardless, I’m gonna try it with clutch depressed. Thanks for your input.

I posted "flywheel seized" last week. Suggestions were made to check the crank, so I strapped the crank pully...it would not budge. As I stated in my first post, I recently purchased a B7100D. I replaced every fluid, it did not burn oil and the radiator stays full. I put about 36 hours on it...

yes and at the correct level too. I am going to try turning the crank this weekend. Thanks for the reply.

Before I try turning the crank, does the diesel motor need to be decompressed? Kinda like removing a spark plug or two on a gas motor/ EDIT: Mark, never mind my question. I found a thread that said if my B7100D doesn't have a decompression lever, just crack the injectors open.

Thank you for the reply. I will give that a try. I think it has a front PTO, can I try to spin it there?

Recently purchased a B7100D. I replaced every fluid, it does not burn oil and the radiator stays full. I put about 36 hours on it. I was back-dragging sand in low, just crawling along. Heard a loud "snap" that appeared to come from the front right side of the engine. But I had hearing...