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Do you have issues with either of your tractors rear remotes having to be constantly readjusted? As in can't go for an hour without corrective adjustments. This means internal control valve leakage. I have seen this being a very common issue with all the tractors smaller than the M series...

Just curious, but how much do the servo valves that you mentioned cost?

All parts? side link $560 hose kit with couplers. $75 flow restrictors $15 shipping $42 No tax option of having a check valve $125 10 week lead time. All I can say is with this stuff, you usually get what you pay for. Maybe go look at Summit Hydraulics.

Fit Rite Hydraulics builds them on a per order basis.

In the parts diagram, how it is, is how it is shown. What is better is what is used on the LX 10 series, then the couplers are in a cast iron housing just like the Grand L series have. :cool:(y)(y)

I think that the adaptors are British thread. You might be able to find a narrow nut that would allow you to use the adaptor as a bulkhead fitting and get the fitting tight in the mount. Maybe? Or start stacking washers in there maybe some lock washers in the mix also so that the hose end...

Any chance of a picture or 2 showing the issue?

I look at it like this, does it hinder the operation of the tractor? As in do you need to be constantly correcting your adjustments? If not, then don't worry about it. There are people who for whatever reason think that things are or need to be perfect, they ARE NOT. I understand you are a...

I seriously doubt that you will find what I previously recommended on anyone's shelf. Not that an off the shelf unit won't work with minor work, but it is not an ideal unit for his tractor. To provide an optimum unit right out of the box is going to be a custom-built unit as far as I know of.

The stock working length cannot be matched with a normal hydraulic unit, nor is it even needed. Go with a 20"-29" range and be happy. (y) Keep in mind that most of these units will need the tractor end ball swivel ground down from 1 3/4" wide to 1 9/16" wide. :( Enjoy the new equipment. :)

You might be right, maybe have to go up to a 26 footer? Have you really looked, or just have not seen any locally? I would think that you can get one built if you just have to have that size. :unsure:

Once you've had a tiltbed trailer, I seriously doubt that you would ever go back to ramps.

If you think that purchasing the OEM Kubota items for the best fitment is the best idea, then good luck with that. I know for a fact that they do not provide the optimum working lengths, and as far as not having any issues, talk to the people that have had the rod end of the top link literally...

If you want-need a cab, get the MX. Plan on getting all new implements. While the smaller tractors work, time should always be a consideration IMO. Good luck with your decisions. (y)(y)

For those of you that might be interested in using draft control for grading purposes. I will explain how I set my tractor up when using draft control. First off, you need to know the tractor's capabilities. So with the implement that you are using, how deep of a cut can it make without ever...

Regarding draft control, as long as you understand how to set it up (adjust it as needed for the circumstances), it will work as needed.

OK, you have your reasons. :cool:

WHY? Simply unplug the couplers and bungee the ends up out of the way. The cylinder-s should be rock solid. That way you have easy adjustment when needed. I believe that it is easier to plug-unplug couplers than to manually adjust the links, no??

With the blade being as low as it is when lifted, you will soon find that you need your top link just for general transport. You do not need to remove the T&T set; just unplug them, and they are as solid as the OEM manual links. You're going to need those diverters sooner than you might think. :)

If the pictured holes are (as you purchased) the rear blade, they look to be made for hardened bushings to be pressed in similar to what Land Pride does. Good luck with your Remedy. ;)