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If you have a front loader on I think it will cause problems sooner or later. It puts the geometry of the steering farther out from the king pins and puts a lot more strain on the steering.

I am not up to speed on the 7000 but if your hydraulics and tranny use the same sump you will need to use hyd/tranny oil. If they are seperate then you are ok with the gear oil.

I think you are to use tran/hydraulic fluid. Gear oil is to heavy for hydraulics.

Your engine will love you for it:D:cool:

There is no problem with switching to synthetic. On very rare occasions synthetics may start to leak out a crank seal but very rarely. 2500hrs is not high hours.

Filters tend to hangup the oil. A little trick I use is to take a screwdriver and hammer and poke a hole in the top of the filter and it will then drain out. Make sure your vent is clear also.:)

You are correct about the acids and such but with only 4 hours on the oil there is not enough acids to worry about. Also you are running the engine which re-coats all the bare metal parts again. The worst case would be to leave dirty oil in all winter and not run the engine. But.....your little...

Yes it will be just fine.:)

JOE; just curious as to what gen you have.

If you want it to last 1000 years then change the oil every year otherwise I would do it every 2 years, and it will only last 500 years.:D

Starting fluid will almost certainly ruin the engine. I tried it once with a small Yanmar 3 cyl. I disconnected the glow plugs and gave it just the hint of a wiff and I broke rings galor. Engine rebuild happened next.

Check that your cables are good and that your battery is good. I have had many batteries that will suck the life out of the jumper battery. After you have checked those items and they are fine then it is likely your starter.:D

I agree on the feathering part but it does seem to complicate an otherwise simple system. Hydraulic clutches are generally very trouble free and can be made to feather with very simple valving.:)

Well there ya go!! Learn something every day. Should be quite obvious to spot when it is apart. Why would Kubota bother with a clutch??:confused: Is it to engage the deck drive:confused: instead of a hydrualic clutch:confused:

I cannot help with this one but I would think it is like most other front mount mowers where the engine is coupled direct with a drive shaft to the hydro unit. But, I do not know. Someone else will have to step in here.:confused:

I must admit ignorance but is the unit not hydrostatic? If so then the clutch you are referring to is the pto clutch...correct?

Smokes??? black, white, blue? What color is the smoke and how much. My guess is you have worn fuel system parts. IE: injectors and or pump.

I would wonder if a bearing or something has gone to put the alignment of various shafts out. Not sure of the construction of the unit but something is out of alignment.

I have idled my 3 bangers down to 800 and they run quite smooth. Every engine is a little different so you need to find the sweet spot. I prefer a slower idle speed than most. One thing to consider is that if you have been working it hard it is a good idea to keep the idle speed up until the...

Hydro trannys are really butt simple. The biggest things is cleanliness as they run on machined tolerances so any dirt will cause damage. The hardest part is getting them onto the work bench.:D