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Continued... The main drive shaft has this attachment with a rubber washer in between. There was a whole lot of play. Not sure if it's supposed to be like this? I'm guessing probably not. Haven't read the service manual yet to see if it's mentioned.

Continued... I removed the remains of the damaged tyre from the front rim and wire brushed it. There was actually more rust than I thought. There is a big hole on the inside and more smaller holes that showed up when the rust was brushed off. I know I can fix this but it will be a bit of work...

Continued... Here are the brake arms with Wattyl Killrust sungold yellow on the top and White Knight rust guard golden yellow on the bottom. Both are a bit more yellower than the original colour that was more orange. But they will do for now and can be overpainted later. The bottom one looked...

I think most of the water in the oil was probably only from the last couple of years. The tractor never had any issues with the transmission while I was using it. Thanks for those links. I had been thinking about whether a water pump would be a good idea. I'd like to put a water and engine temp...

Continued... I took the gear case cover off. Mostly to help me get the oil seal out but also to inspect inside and reseal it. It had been taken off before and the original broken gasket was combined with gasket maker. I removed the remains of the original gasket and reattached the cover with...

Sometimes I post a reply before I'm finished writing all of it. You must have caught me in the middle of editing the post. The tractor did have a muffler at one time (rusted through the bottom) but it dropped off a long time ago. I'll clean the injectors soon. I don't have to remove the...

Continued... I removed the idler pulley. I think the bearing may need to be replaced on this. The V belt says M29. This appears to be a cheap, standard and widely available type. It's 29" (737mm) length, 10mm width and 5.5mm thickness. The nut on the engine pulley was quite hard to remove...

Continued... The starter motor is removed with two nuts. The manifold came off fairly easily after removing the four bolts. I removed the diff lock pedal and actuating rod. The lower water outlet had a bit of rust. It seems to be threaded onto the engine but I couldn't remove it. I...

Yeah, I think some of the parts collect surface water easier which makes them rust faster. It looks from the parts book and operators manual that that bolt isn't anything too special. The transmission case drain plugs are under under the brakes on each side. It might just be an extra drain...

Continued... The rod attached between the hydraulic arm and lever that's supposed to limit the maximum and minimum height has a 90 degree bend in it. I think it's supposed to be straight? The bolts on the rubber seat bumper snapped when undoing them but hopefully they'll be easy enough to...

Well might be a little while before it's running again as it seems like I'm going for a full disassembly at this rate. That radiator and support looks good. What's the mini radiator in front for? I think I understand about welding the bolts. While the heads are rusted I don't think they should...

Ok, I see the rusty metal piece was a part of a rear footboard inside the rear fenders. I managed to remove the right hand side one but the bolts are far to gone on the one in the photo. Maybe I can weld a piece of metal on the bolts to get some leverage? That's the lever position I'm talking...

Thanks Nick! That bearing doesn't look like a bad price - about $27 NZD. But then the shipping price is a whopping $161 NZD! The same item from the same seller is also on eBay but the shipping cost is still $51 NZD. It's the same with with almost any other US supplier. US to NZ shipping is very...

I removed the radiator. Any part of the frame the radiator fits into crumbled away when I touched it. The radiator seems to be in OK condition. I cleaned it out with a hose and there was a lot of gunk and rust in it. The tractor itself seemed fairly clean when running water through it. I'm still...

Continued... After placing the adjuster bolt in the sector gear (with a lot of grease) it needs to be secured with the internal circlip. The 20mm one didn't fit but 18mm seems perfect. It seems to spin much more smoothly than it did before. I've assembled everything without any oil for now. I...

I ground the sector gear down a lot more. I don't really know what the original shape was but hopefully it will work ok. In the second photo you can see the area around the seal has rusted away. I'll need to build this up by welding it and then file it smooth for it to seal properly. I removed...

I've looked at various sites to find the sizes of parts but most of these old parts are just listed with no photo or description. It's far too expensive to import most of the parts or to buy them here. Unfortunately the actual owner of the tractor is in dispute otherwise I'd definitely make an...

Hi! A short introduction: I've lived my whole life on a farm in Auckland, New Zealand surrounded with tractors. Mostly old David Browns at this point but also a couple of Kubota's. I'm not really experienced with fixing tractors but I've done some basic work on them before including repairing...