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No worries. No harm it can do. It is just a very small piece of soft aluminum.

Thank you. Here is a picture of the dynamo harness holding tab which I bent by hammering it with a punch: Don't forget a new o-ring here: Verifying that the 3 O-rings in the cover are still in place. They seemed a little too big on the od, making them want to squirrel out, but they did...

Back to finishing up the cam plug repair project: Reassembling, I decided to put the dynamo housing on first, after doing a dry fit to make sure I could get a socket over the top middle timing cover bolt when the dynamo was in place. For that particular bolt I used a 1/4" ratchet drive...

I use John Deere Coolguard II in everything. It has the anti-cavitation additives for diesels. Deere has done lots of research with coolants, and the ASTM cavitation test is sometimes referred to as the John Deere Cavitation Test. As far as I know, it is truly universal for tractors, trucks...

That is probably going to fix the wear there from the yoke, but maybe not help the wear inside the bushings. I wonder if the bushings were greased on the id from the factory, or did they think oil from the differential was somehow supposed to lubricate them? I don't see any way to lube the...

Adding the zerks was a great idea.

Bill, thank you for the comment and for giving me the link to your front axle rebuild thread. I had not seen it. I am thinking much of the wear I am seeing on the pin might have something to do with the three 25 KG suitcase weights on the front. I assume they were attached there to...

Today, I noticed that the front axle pulls right out from the front of the tractor. The shaft tube pulls out of a boot and leaves the shaft itself hanging, attached midway under the tractor. So, I pulled it out to help the cleaning process. Good thing, because I found a blob of gasket I missed...

That is getting near the end of my pictures. Here is how I kept the bolt straight, since they have various lengths. Traced out the holes with the new gasket and then punched holes in the box to stick the bolts as I removed them: I put the seal in the timing cover tonight. The bore in the...

Here is a picture of the dynamo inside. It does accumulate dirt. Just blow it off with compressed air. If you try to soak it in solvent, you risk dissolving the lacquer insulation on the windings. The grease you see is what has come out of the bearings over 35 years. Here is what the new...

The front axle and differential need to be partially detached in order for the cover to clear the crankshaft shaft. Here you can see I am running into this problem: I braced the tractor underneath in two places, so I could move the axle about two inches out, without something going...

Picture of the crankshaft pulley. You can see the two holes in it for use of a puller. That would be a steering wheel type puller. You could make something on the spot with a stiff piece of flat iron with two holes drilled in it. The holes are M6 x 1.0 thread pitch. I don't know exactly what...

Removing that devilish bottom nut on the dynamo housing stud. Used a 10mm craftsman ratcheting socket--one click only at a time is the best I could do:

Here is a picture of the two springs which have to be disconnected before removing the timing cover. One spring is attached to a post on the cover, while the other one is attached to the lever on the governor linkage:

Here is the camshaft which loses the plug. One look and you have verified the problem: Below, a close-up of the camshaft showing no plug. Also, you can barely see the land on the inside of the hole which would stop the cam plug from being inserted too far. However, you are only going to be...

Here is why the dynamo/water jacket housing must be removed before the timing cover. There is a metal clip which holds the two wires leading out of the dynamo housing. The clip has a 90 degree bend with a tab fitting into the half-moon cut-out in the dynamo housing obviously intended as a way...

I'll post some part numbers now. These are updated numbers: Gear case gasket: 15263-04130 Crankshaft seal: 09550-00008 (the original seal was a NOK AH1671P; replacement is TTO D448. This crosses to National 223012, SKF 11580, used in Fords and Mazdas. ) 3x case o-rings: 04811-06130 Water...

Thanks. Yes, it is hard to get off. If you use a metal gasket scraper, it is all too easy to end up with gouges in the aluminum. I got a few. Best to go with a gasket remover spray and then go easy on it. I managed to get all mine off with careful working with a straight edge razor with my...

The problem of the B7100 front cam oil galley plug dislodging and causing oil pressure low enough that the oil pressure light comes on, has been covered by several threads on this forum and others on the internet. The symptoms in this situation was an oil light that would come on after the oil...

If you order a 15261-96860, Kubota will send you an aluminum plug. The number does not supercede! 15261-96880 is the steel plug that you want.