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Oh and BTW, there is no way to get a torque wrench in there to torque the hub to spec. So i used the arm and hand " it feels right" wrench. I used blue locktite on all of the bolts The only way i could see you getting a torque wrench in there would be to have the fender off and the dash out of...

Got if fixed and mowed with it today :) Both hands are cut to hell and back but its done, TG

Thats exactly what i was going to look for if there was not an unusual spec. Thanks for the link. I appreciate it.

Does anyone know what the torque spec is on the pump hub bolt and the long bushing bolts ? Are they supposed to have blue locktite on them ?

Thanks for the links

awesome ! as i looked at it i didn't think so but i thought i had better verify it considering what happened as soon as i fired the motor right after tightening that fitting up and refilling with hydro fluid. I really appreciate the help

Thank you so much for your help. Any suggestions as to the cheapest place to get those parts ?

also any answer on this part of the question ? ? ? Am i correct that the bolts final resting place is unimportant because there is a groove machined around that entire banjo fitting ? Im talking about the bolt that is part of the sump screen. There is a hole machined through the middle of that...

here are the pics of the hub. I'm letting some pb blaster soak in overnight

Well if i NEVER have to get that hub off agin, it will most certainly be wayyyyyyyyjyyyyyy too soon...:eek: No set screw as the spec drawing shows. Press fit with keyway. OMG i promise you don't want to try and get a puller in there and manipulate it. The only thing i can think of thats much...

WOW, awesome :D:o Thank you soooooo much. I could not figure out for the life of me what i had done wrong. Am i correct that the bolts final resting place is unimportant because there is a groove machined around that entire banjo fitting ? Im talking about the bolt that is part of the sump...

OK, i jacked it back up to where the rear tires were off the ground. i turned the both wheels at the same time in neutral / treadle pedal fwd / treadle pedal rev. All smooth . I put a big cable tie around the crank output shaft and started the motor. runs smooth as silk. What do you glean from...

i will get it back up in the air and do those tests and post the results. I appreciate your help in diagnosing it.

it appears that there is a set screw that holds the hub on the front of the pump ( praying that there is ) . I'm going out to the garage and see if thats the case. If it is I'm going to try and get the hub off and see if i can extract those 2 sheared off bolts. I know there will be a lot of...

I wish. NO tools whatsoever in the path during start. Do you know what that spring / lever arm is in that pic ?

more pix of the sheared bolts / spacers bushings and spring and link rod on the right side of the frame that i can't figure out where it goes.

Please remember I'm no tractor mechanic and this is my first Kubota and first diesel lawn tractor so I'm at a disadvantage and need you help. So i bought a used hard G5200 and started giving it some love. Buying lots O parts that it needed, sandblasting wheels, repaint wheels and new tires. New...

It appears after studying them side by side the 2650 is about 8.5" wider, 8.5 " longer and 200 lbs heavier . It also has a bigger loader by about 200lbs lift at the pin and a little bigger volume pump to accommodate the bigger loader. Its also has a digital dash and the 2601 is analog. thats the...

Can you please elaborate what the differences are between the 2650 and the 2601? A dealer said that same kind of thing " its an upgraded 2601" When i asked what that was he said " cruise control and tilt wheel" I said " wait, the 2601 has that i just got off one today " Now that dealer is...

wait, its only a 25hp engine. it needs no DPF. I'm officially confused and i suspect you are exactly right on no DPF