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Heated mirrors? How cool is that. Is that factory? Does a LX2610 cab have such a thing?

You want to cut brush with a brutal and shocking whack. That means dull. That, my OTT friend, destroys stalk fibers well below the cut line. As for finish mowers, I have a few Finns in the family by marriage, and they are sharp 1/2 the time. Dull 1/2 the time. But very opinionated.

Things are secrets because the manufacturers want you to have to buy from them. Specialty tools from many manufacturers, especially in the automotive industry is an example. Torx bolt heads. And even security bolt torx heads...

IMO. As others have said.. Buy an OEM belt from a K dealer. Measure it, length, width, depth and pattern or V shape when you get it. Keep it on record. Problem solved. Later, when the new OEM one dies... Buy from anyone anywhere and roll the dice.

My guess is it would cut down tractor time by 90 percent... loader bucket vs a Front snow blower.

I have to agree with RCW. A rear snow blower is not too complicated. Like a rototiller with a chute out the top. And the general consensus is the rear PTO is more heavy duty than a mid PTO. A front blower is relatively complicated. With a secondary cradle - frame and lift mechanism. And...

Wow. I'm truly out of your folk's caliber. For my lawn, or "finish" mower, I buy new blades every 5 years or so. For my Brush hog blades, the duller the better. I replace them when they get too short. The only blades I sharpen are on hand knives and chainsaws.

Spend the coin. Go front blower. You have the mid PTO, unless you bought a LX2610 SU.

Well, in my history, as far as "REAR" PTO snow blowers go: If, and that's a big IF, you can stay ahead of the snow depth, a forward facing - rear pto blower is good. Because you will be driving over the snow that you wish to blow. If a blizzard happens, a rear facing, rear blowing snow...

Sorry, I was trying to clarify what you said about couplers. To help the poster understand. I now know that there are no U joints. But there should be from the factory. I don't associate the term "couplers" into driveshaft terminology. No matter what K calls them. It's a slip joint in...

History has proven that you don't mess with God's chosen race. Since 1948 it's been even more real. Don't mess with Israel. But they still do and they keep trying. Eventually losing everything. It's deeper than us. It's not political. It's spiritual.

That looks my typical breakfast table. But my Sig is on my hip and has no fancy wood grips.

I was thinking along the same lines. Check out the video in post #8.

Those are some serious Kubotas. You'll love the cab. Once I went cab, it took me a little while to get over the visibility issues and the feeling of being out of touch with my surroundings. Like driving a car instead of riding a motorcycle.

I'm guessing they didn't tell you about the "hell night' initiation? I hope that you still have the rear pto shaft plastic cover. Just sayin. This ain't no party, this ain't no disco, this ain't no foolin' around.

Got it. Slip joint coupler. (138) How to fix Kubota 4X4 drive coupling. - YouTube Roll pins not deep enough or shield bolts too tight.

Nice steel fabrication! On the truck, is that a class 5 hitch that's twisted? If so, It's probably a total loss. Edit: Nevermind, I now see it's one of those multi ball Ching a Deras.

Why space out the fronts? Garden rows?

CV Joint or U joint? Did you lube the new joint? Is it shielded? Sheild on correctly? Or are you talking about the slip joint "coupler"?

Try the A24 from Good Nature. I've been considering one or two myself.