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Get one of the cordless jobbers and you can hold the hose on the zerk with a latex gloved hand and press the trigger on the gun with the other clean hand.

My B6100 manual describes that setup for connecting a hydraulic implement. For the B6100 the fill plug thread is PF1/2 thread. But the fill plug for the L4200, 38430-21410 looks to be a bit bigger thread. Haven’t seen anywhere that lists the thread pitch for that plug. Assuming you talking...

Several of the synthetic oil outfits make formulations good for flat tappet heavy valve spring engines. I don’t have experience with pre-70’s engines. You might consider a good 20w-40 or 20w-50 in your rig. I’ve found oil burn to be much less with synthetics than conventional.

Modern oils ruin an old engine? I tend toward Mobile 1 myself, but Amsoil in the rear diff has always done good. I change oil at 3500 to 4000 in the engine so mobile 1 synthetic gets the nod there. How old would an engine need to be for synthetic to ruin it? I’ve run it in 80’s 22r’s, 90’s 350...

My 6100 had milk in it on purchase. Ripped shift boot. I also needed to replace the 3-point piston o-ring. When I had the piston out I could see that the push rod and linkage was rusty, but the gears and everything lower in the tranny looked pristine. I scrubbed off as much rust as I could reach...

I have a Miller 180. Does that count? LOL Yes, my holes are oblong. Will have to address at some point.

Don’t have help, but will tag along. My bucket pins are similarly loose and I think the slop contributes to the cylinder shaft contacting the metal limit stop tab on the loader arm when the bucket is at full dump position.