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See if this helps: https://cdn-assets.greatplainsmfg.com/ari/attach/lp/public/manuals/380-347m.pdf

Good on you. I’ve been out most mornings here. With an arra is definitely more of a challenge. I seem to do best aiming for his ‘six’ from behind, when throwing arras at ‘em. Good Luck

I ultimately went with 3” spacers (on my R4s) since the resulting width was pretty close to R1s/rims set as far out as they’ll go.

Very nice video you’ve put together-thanks for sharing. I’m studying up on this myself for my L3301 and I noticed in the WSM for both 2501 and 3301, under ‘Condition’ they show the Engine Speed to be set at Maximum when making this adjustment. What impact would this have made on your measurements?

Absolutely

My BH77 manual states the BH must be removed whenever using anything (including the 3-point) downstream of the BH. So it really depends on the BH76 (its requirements/warnings) and if it’s ‘next to last’ (last would be the 3-PT) in the PB loop. Where does the outlet flow of the BH connect to now...

That’s pretty slick. I’ve just been cable-tying it to the black knob, close by.

Thanks for the reply. No plan to use any rear remotes when the BH is on, just concerned if one of the three rear remotes valve levers got inadvertently moved while the BH happened to be on. I guess it’s to do with the BH’s ‘outlet’ line serving as both a PB and ‘return-to-Tank’ line? In any...

Recently I added rear remotes using the Kubota kits and the PB of that Kubota valve stack is what feeds the Backhoe itself. I’ve been pretty OCD when it comes to securing the 3-point hitch lever in the down position when hooking up the backhoe for use. In this snip from the BH77 manual, it’s...

I swapped out the tiny one it came with, with one of these off Amazon.

Remember too when looking at this clip from the manual that you need to be able to ‘stop’ it too 😁 - so I wouldn’t try it myself (especially going downhill) since you likely are only using the tractor’s brakes. And a 3-point hitch adapter doesn’t allow you to keep the tongue ‘down’ in the event...

While there’s no question the BB1260 is a light-duty Box Blade, it’s pretty clear from the OP’s pics that whoever sold him his BB didn’t use the 4 bolts called for in the assembly, as Dave H has pointed out. I have absolutely beaten the daylights out of mine over the past three years and don’t...

Not in a million years would I ever consider adding spacers to a pivoting front (to avoid wearing something prematurely) but I do suppose once it’s actually ‘at the stop’ (now pretending to be non-pivoting), I surmise wider would be better. But on a hillside about to tip, I’m probably...

Seems like some time back another person had a similar issue and the rims were spinning on the tires (because of low tire pressure).

They quoted me $350 labor to do two valves but ultimately I decided to do it myself, and add a third one as well.

Well I got this done last week myself, after ordering in all the position kits, three valves, and the extra parts needed due to also having a backhoe. It wasn’t bad at all, even with having to take the rear tire and fender off to be able to slip that third valve over the studs for the stack...

Installed Rear Remotes (one Spring Center and two Float-Detent Valves) on my L3301.

These came from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-NI-FH02-Circuit-Adapter-Warranty/dp/B0742BZXC2 I used the same circuit as my hazards so I could have the tractor off and still take the pressure out off my dual lid grapple hoses right before disconnecting them.

Wanted to mention the item below is what I used to easily add power (along with a fuse) to the 3rd Function Valve I installed.

All very good points being made, and am watching this thread closely. That said, I purchased the kit below for use with my L3301 (with backhoe) and Grapple, and everything works perfectly (and has for well over a year now.). I followed the Backhoe instructions and when I came up with a hose...