Help with L35 leaks and ROPS/Cabin removal

[Firewood]

Hi there,

I just bought a new-to-me L35 with the front loader and the back hoe. It also has the "Laurin Vision Plus Cab" which I'm not sure how I feel about yet, but it is an enclosed cabin with heater, radio etc (I'm a minimalist by nature). It came to me with pretty substantial hydraulic leak that I originally though would require splitting the tractor but after doing some reading I think its probably the hard lines above the transmission (and there's also some hoses for the backhoe that need to be replaced and a leak from the loader control valve which I hope doesn't require replacing the unit).

I would really appreciate some help with this. Any tips would be great. Even removing the cabin seems like a huge pain in the rear. From what I can get from the service manual I got is the ROPS/Cabin has to be lifted off, then the floor lifted off, then I can run the machine and confirm the leaks and have access to repair. One post said the hard lines were a bugger to get in and out and someone said they modified theirs with fittings and some braided line? Is there anything recommended that I do while I have access to these areas? I have split the b7100 before to do a clutch and it was so much simpler and nicer to work on.

I'm just about to go outside and finish welding up a gantry to lift the cabin off. I'll only have room to raise it up about 2-2.5 feet.

Thanks and wish me luck!

 

[L35]

Post pics of the areas in question.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Get the installation manual for the cab ! It should show you how it can be removed, having a tall gantry crane would make it easy.

As for the lines, there HAS to be a way to do it,fairly fast. Just think 'assembly line'. No way it should take more than 5 minutes to 'feed' it into position.

 

[Firewood]

I’m always short on time but I got the gantry finished and started taking things apart. Apparently the cabin is kind of a custom add on but I should have it off when I’m able to get back out to the shop. Then to lift the floor off it looks like like it could be tough because the cabin will be suspended a couple feet above it. I might be able to rig up and extension for my engine hoist to get in there. I have the Kubota service manual but it looks like it was a scam so the pictures are very poor quality.

 

[Russell King]

There is a Kubota site for illustrated parts lists that can help you see how things are put together.

I think you have to go to the Canadian site

 

[Workerbee]

Is it possible to remove your wheels and lower the tractor down a ways before lifting your cab? Maybe you could gain 10-12”?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

https://www.kubota.ca/parts-catalogue

select Kubota, agree, and you're in.. I'm on it 10 x a week...

 

[Firewood]

finally found a bit of time to work on the tractor. I got a gantry and got the big heavy cabin off and started working towards removing everything to get the floor/fender assembly off. I have two questions:

1) I’m following the shop manual but the steps are to access and split the transmission so i think i can skip some steps. There’s a lot to removing the instrument panel frame (power steering hoses etc). Does anyone know if I can leave that all attached and just raise the instrument panel frame enough to slide the floor backwards and out from under it?

2. while I only have stuff off I was trying to see if I can locate the leak. It seemed to be from the top right side somewhere on the transmission housing. Now it’s not leaking but in the shop I can’t drive it at all. But moving loader etc wouldn’t it dripping and neither would putting it into either backhoe 3-point mode with the diverter valve. I put it in forward/reverse and moved the 4 inches or so I can move it where it is and put load in it with the brakes on and no dripping. Is there something there that could leak only when actually travelling?

Thanks!

 

[Russell King]

You might try jacking the rear tires off the floor and putting it in 2WD and see if you can exercise the transmission enough to get it to leak.

But I suggest that you get information on what those lines do and what would make them leak and try that operation instead of just trying one thing after another.

Have you located the lines in the parts list? That might give you an idea of what the lines are for. I would think that all transmission flow is internal except for cooling lines that go to the front of the tractor and back.

 

[whitetiger]

No way it should take more than 5 minutes to 'feed' it into position.

ROTFLMAO!!!!!!

 

[Firewood]

Okay good news and bad news. Bad news is I wasted a bunch of time following a book when I should have just done some exploring. There’s an access plate under the rubber matting under the seat. The good news is the leak is coming from one of the steel hydraulic lines that comes out of the front of the transmission housing near the top. There are two lines stacked on top of each other and it’s the one towards the front that seems to have a hairline crack where the line is brazed to the connection. It looks like it might be an adventure to get it out but I assume it is possible without removing the floor pan/fender assembly. Kubota said the part is discontinued so hopefully the hydraulic shop doesn’t have trouble brazing it back together.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Okay good news and bad news. Bad news is I wasted a bunch of time following a book when I should have just done some exploring. There’s an access plate under the rubber matting under the seat. The good news is the leak is coming from one of the steel hydraulic lines that comes out of the front of the transmission housing near the top. There are two lines stacked on top of each other and it’s the one towards the front that seems to have a hairline crack where the line is brazed to the connection. It looks like it might be an adventure to get it out but I assume it is possible without removing the floor pan/fender assembly. Kubota said the part is discontinued so hopefully the hydraulic shop doesn’t have trouble brazing it back together.

Oh now you're in for a fun time.
That is not an easy line to get out!

 

[TheOldHokie]

Okay good news and bad news. Bad news is I wasted a bunch of time following a book when I should have just done some exploring. There’s an access plate under the rubber matting under the seat. The good news is the leak is coming from one of the steel hydraulic lines that comes out of the front of the transmission housing near the top. There are two lines stacked on top of each other and it’s the one towards the front that seems to have a hairline crack where the line is brazed to the connection. It looks like it might be an adventure to get it out but I assume it is possible without removing the floor pan/fender assembly. Kubota said the part is discontinued so hopefully the hydraulic shop doesn’t have trouble brazing it back together.

I am going to guess that is welded not brazed.

Dan

 

[whitetiger]

Oh now you're in for a fun time.
That is not an easy line to get out!

It has been stated that " No way it should take more than 5 minutes to 'feed' it into position."

 

[L35]

Anyway it can be replaced with a hydraulic hose?

 

[lugbolt]

Anyway it can be replaced with a hydraulic hose?

probably but you'll have to find someone to make it with the correct ends. Likely less $$$ to just buy the OEM pipe and install it. You still have to take the old one off so just get the correct one and have it on hand for when you get the old one off.

the hose idea is sound but remember that the hoses often dry rot long before that pipe cracked.