Bx 1800 draw bar
- Thread starter okieron
- Start date
My BX didn't have a true drawbar. It had a hole to drop a hitch pin into the lower PTO shield. This would be adequate for small carts, etc but not much more. A 3 point drawbar hitch did work well for me on the BX though, moving the attachment point back far enough to allow better turning.
Of course it is entirely up to the operator to respect the limits of common sense regarding the size and weight being towed and the type of terrain involved. Those 3 point devices need to be secured from lifting, as most tractor 3 point systems can "float" upward otherwise.
Of course it is entirely up to the operator to respect the limits of common sense regarding the size and weight being towed and the type of terrain involved. Those 3 point devices need to be secured from lifting, as most tractor 3 point systems can "float" upward otherwise.
I may be the ignorant one here, but I have never seen a box blade of that size that requires the use of a drawbar.
Box blades connect to 3pt hitch so they can be raised and lowered. The draw bar has no lift function.
This type of tow-behind box blade/scraper requires a draw bar.
First spread your lower 3 PT arms and measure how far apart they are - this can vary slightly depending on how the turnbuckles are adjusted. Your draw bar must be equal to or less than the max width.
Second measure the holes where the scraper will connect to the draw bar. Get a bar with the same hole spacing if possible otherwise you'll need to drill to fit. If you use only one hole the scraper can sway back and forth which is usually not optimal.
You can get a 3 PT. draw bar like this (minus the ball) - would be my first choice since you can use it for other tasks. Just make sure the height from the bottom to the top link pin is not too tall to connect your top link.
Or a 2 PT draw bar like this - the simplest and cheapest alternative. Again, measure the width of your lower links and buy a Cat 1 to match.
First spread your lower 3 PT arms and measure how far apart they are - this can vary slightly depending on how the turnbuckles are adjusted. Your draw bar must be equal to or less than the max width.
Second measure the holes where the scraper will connect to the draw bar. Get a bar with the same hole spacing if possible otherwise you'll need to drill to fit. If you use only one hole the scraper can sway back and forth which is usually not optimal.
You can get a 3 PT. draw bar like this (minus the ball) - would be my first choice since you can use it for other tasks. Just make sure the height from the bottom to the top link pin is not too tall to connect your top link.
Or a 2 PT draw bar like this - the simplest and cheapest alternative. Again, measure the width of your lower links and buy a Cat 1 to match.
PS - if your box blade / scraper is not like the one shown please take a picture of the one you have so we can help you better.