No power kubota 5030D

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The pressure is made from the clutch spinning the HST pump.

 

[TheOldHokie]

The pressure is made from the clutch spinning the HST pump.

Yes. So low HST operating pressure is either a bad clutch, a bad HST pump, a bad HST motor, or some combination of the above. All require a split.

AFAIK the only thing external is HST charge pressure which can be measured before doing a split. I believe its regulated internally and if low will still require a split.

Dan

 

[riverhouse3157]

I assume you are talking about shimming the implement pump pressure relief. It has no bearing on the transmission pressure. The transmission pump is inside the transmission.

Dan

thank you Dan
is there a way of testing the transmission pump ?
i dont see anything in WSM
And the HST charge pressure .Do i measure that directly from the wsm page 3-S87..Port 2 forward ?

 

[TheOldHokie]

thank you Dan
is there a way of testing the transmission pump ?
i dont see anything in WSM

Yes but it likely wont be called a pump test. HST pressure tests are typically described in thd HST section of the WSM.

Dan

 

[Shawn T. W]

I only ever use the clutch on mine to start it, then never tough the clutch pedal again, until I need to start it again, there is a safety switch which requires clutch to be pressed to start ...

I'm guess you checked the obvious stuff like fluid level, and the parking brake isn't on?

 

[whitetiger]

smells of clutch burn or slip when trying to increase speed via the throttle

so what do you suggest i check to remedy this ?

You have basically quoted the classic symptoms of a failed/worn-out clutch.
Separate the tractor at the clutch housing and inspect what, if anything, is left of what once was a clutch disc.

 

[riverhouse3157]

You have basically quoted the classic symptoms of a failed/worn-out clutch.
Separate the tractor at the clutch housing and inspect what, if anything, is left of what once was a clutch disc.

so is it worth doing a pressure test before splitting....my worry is that if the transmission pump has failed when i open the clutch up i wont be in a posistion to test any hydrallics until we put it back together

 

[TheOldHokie]

so is it worth doing a pressure test before splitting....my worry is that if the transmission pump has failed when i open the clutch up i wont be in a posistion to test any hydrallics until we put it back together

I would check the HST pressures just to have a baseline.

That said, if you split and find a roached clutch are you still going to tear down the HST based on some sketchy pressure numbers?

Dan

 

[riverhouse3157]

I would check the HST pressures just to have a baseline.

That said, if you split and find a roached clutch are you still going to tear down the HST based on some sketchy pressure numbers?

Dan

i will do a pressure test at idle and with revs in forward rocker posistion and see what it trows up.. off the forward pressure point on the tranny in the morning before i pull it apart for a baseline

 

[riverhouse3157]

I will do a pressure test at idle and with revs in the forward rocker position and see what it throws up. Off the forward pressure point on the tranny in the morning before I pull it apart for a baseline

pretty much fried clutch down to the rivets on the pressure plate side ...while i have this in two pieces what should i look for and replace as good practice ,the propellar shaft bearing seams to be pretty loose on the bell housing,is that normal ,i can pull it straight back ?

 

[riverhouse3157]

i had purchased a clutch as a replacement, but it's 10 inches across and the existing one is 9-1/2 , both are listed for this tractor ...any thoughts on who will ship these within a day .

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Only one is listed for a L5030 HST.
Clutch Disk: TD020-20500
Pressure plate: TA020-20600
Throwout bearing: TC650-26350

 

[riverhouse3157]

Only one is listed for a L5030 HST.
Clutch Disk: TD020-20500
Pressure plate: TA020-20600
Throwout bearing: TC650-26350

thank you

 

[riverhouse3157]

Is it a simple enough job to replace the transmission shaft seal, and what other seals or bearings would you change with the tractor parted? Rather do everything that makes sense to replace while it's apart .
Is there a parts number catalogue online

 

[Russell King]

pretty much fried clutch down to the rivets on the pressure plate side ...while i have this in two pieces what should i look for and replace as good practice ,the propellar shaft bearing seams to be pretty loose on the bell housing,is that normal ,i can pull it straight back ?

Since no one responded to the “what to replace while split” question…

I would replace the three main parts as noted above (clutch plate, pressure plate, throw out bearing) and also the pilot bearing (or bushing) as the minimum.

You could also replace any seals that are on the shafts into the transmission case (and any supporting bearings) if you want to and notice any leakage around the seals. I would not worry with these seals if they are difficult to replace, not seeping, or expensive.

Also do NOT have the flywheel resurfaced since that will normally cause more problems than benefits.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Since no one responded to the “what to replace while split” question…

I would replace the three main parts as noted above (clutch plate, pressure plate, throw out bearing) and also the pilot bearing (or bushing) as the minimum.

You could also replace any seals that are on the shafts into the transmission case (and any supporting bearings) if you want to and notice any leakage around the seals. I would not worry with these seals if they are difficult to replace, not seeping, or expensive.

Also do NOT have the flywheel resurfaced since that will normally cause more problems than benefits.

UMMM, I said the parts to replace in #42.

I would NOT replace any seals or such if the bell housing is dry.
You open a whole can of worms if there is not an issue now.
Kubota Transmission and engine seals normally will last a lifetime of the tractor.

 

[TheOldHokie]

UMMM, I said the parts to replace in #42.

I would NOT replace any seals or such if the bell housing is dry.
You open a whole can of worms if there is not an issue now.
Kubota Transmission and engine seals normally will last a lifetime of the tractor.

If it aint broke fix it till it is

 

[riverhouse3157]

UMMM, I said the parts to replace in #42.

I would NOT replace any seals or such if the bell housing is dry.
You open a whole can of worms if there is not an issue now.
Kubota Transmission and engine seals normally will last the lifetime of the tractor.

i have purchased the engine rear main oil seal and the transmission intake seal...is it really asking for trouble replacing those? No, they aren't leaking.
Are you really telling me i should replace the HST motor, the HST pump and the clutch, as in "UMMM, I said the parts to replace in #42."

 

[TheOldHokie]

i have purchased the engine rear main oil seal and the transmission intake seal...is it really asking for trouble replacing those? No, they aren't leaking.
Are you really telling me i should replace the HST motor, the HST pump and the clutch, as in "UMMM, I said the parts to replace in #42."

If they are not leaking I would not replace the seals but you have already bought new ones so...

 

[Hugo Habicht]

If they are not leaking I would not replace the seals but you have already bought new ones so...

... do not replace them and put them in the shelf.