B8200 no hydraulics

[MartinmMc]

@MartinmMc
Was there any load on the three point hitch when it was lifting on the test (directional valve anti-clockwise)? Was it performing any work or just lifting the arms?

No load on the arms

 

[TheOldHokie]

No load on the arms

It does not matyer. The arms came up so the pump is working.

Check and confirm the position of the selector valve on the outlet block. Put your hands on it!! Thats essential information.

Dan

 

[MartinmMc]

I think we need to slow down and confirm a few things.

The directional valve should be fully CLOCKWISE. The OP needs to CHECK AND CONFIRM that. Once confirmed it should never be changed.

I would also l8ke to know why there is a quick coupler on the outlet block

Dan

The direction valve rotates, but doesn't have stop, just rotates

I've redrawn the hydraulic flow circuit

 

[MartinmMc]

It does not matyer. The arms came up so the pump is working.

Check and confirm the position of the selector valve on the outlet block. Put your hands on it!! Thats essential information.

Dan

Yes I've stood on the arms

 

[TheOldHokie]

Yes I've stood on the arms

Your three point is working so the pump is working. The loader and remotes are not working

That absolutely screams the selector valve on the outlet block is in the wrong position. Focus on it. It should not turn freely - it should have stops .

Your new diagram looks a little more understandable but it still has problems. Show me a picture of the connection I circled. I don't see how that is possible.

And please - quit calling the remotes power beyond. They are REMOTES and the lever is the REMOTE CONTROL LEVER

Dan

 

[MartinmMc]

Your three point is working so the pump is working. The loader and remotes are not working

That absolutely screams the selector valve on the outlet block is in the wrong position. Focus on it. It should not turn freely - it should have stops .

Your new diagram looks a little more understandable but it still has problems. Show me a picture of the connection I circled. I don't see how that is possible.

And please - quit calling the remotes power beyond. They are REMOTES and the lever is the REMOTE CONTROL LEVER

Dan

View attachment 155416

Your three point is working so the pump is working. The loader and remotes are not working

That absolutely screams the selector valve on the outlet block is in the wrong position. Focus on it. It should not turn freely - it should have stops .

Your new diagram looks a little more understandable but it still has problems. Show me a picture of the connection I circled. I don't see how that is possible.

And please - quit calling the remotes power beyond. They are REMOTES and the lever is the REMOTE CONTROL LEVER

Dan

View attachment 155416

The circled area is the a return flow into the top of the transmission case, I think you were referring to it as the tank.

What is the outlet block you refer to? is it the block I arrowed or is it the block on the remote lever?

 

[TheOldHokie]

The circled area is the a return flow into the top of the transmission case, I think you were referring to it as the tank.

What is the outlet block you refer to? is it the block I arrowed or is it the block on the remote lever?

The outlet block is the one up by the floor boards. If your remote valve dumps into the top of the transmssion case this may have "worked" but it could never have worked correctly

Lets start straightening this out by fixing the selector valve which is probably the bulk of your problem. Here is a blown up image from the owners manual. If you look closely at the areas indicated by the three red lines you can see three roll pins. Two are in the top of the block and the third is cross wise through the stem of the valves. Those are the stops that allow you to correctly position the valve and yours are missing. Once you fix that and we get the loader working we will correct the plumbing on the remote valve.

Dan

 

[RCW]

@MartinmMc - -

You're fortunate to have Dan (@TheOldHokie) helping you out.

Couldn't count how many times he's helped with problems like this.

He's a great resource.

I can't help but try to pay attention to these threads so I can learn as well.

 

[MartinmMc]

Hi Dan
I owe you an apology about schematic for the hydraulics, see amended sketch.

Also another pic of the outlet block , the bolt with the roll pin in just rotates, is it meant to be threaded, what should it do?

 

[TheOldHokie]

Hi Dan
I owe you an apology about schematic for the hydraulics, see amended sketch.

Also another pic of the outlet block , the bolt with the roll pin in just rotates, is it meant to be threaded, what should it do?

That is not a bolt - it is a valve stem. It is supposed to rotate but there are supposed to be two more roll pins in the surface pointed to by the red arrow. Those two roll pins stick up and are stops for the valve. Clean up the top of the valve and you should find holes for the missing roll pins.

Dan

 

[TheOldHokie]

I am 5 hours behind you and will watch this thread for at least another 5. By that time it will be the wee hours of the morning where you are

Dan

 

[TheOldHokie]

I blew that image up a bit more and I now see one of the roll pins that act as the stops. I moved the red arrow to point to it. For some reason its too short to work. Look and see if there is not another one near it.

Dan

 

[MartinmMc]

I am 5 hours behind you and will watch this thread for at least another 5. By that time it will be the wee hours of the morning where you are

Dan

It's 10.30 here in the UK, so I'll update you tomorrow.

Many thanks for your patience

Martin

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Start finding a gear case for the hydraulic drive before it comes completely unglued!

 

[MartinmMc]

Sorry, I've been away working.

I've checked the valve base & there is evidence of 2 pins.
I have set the pointer on the stops & it's made no difference, no hydraulics, the 3pt link does not have much power either, but it does lift.
I've also checked the filter which is ok.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Sorry, I've been away working.

I've checked the valve base & there is evidence of 2 pins.
I have set the pointer on the stops & it's made no difference, no hydraulics, the 3pt link does not have much power either, but it does lift.
I've also checked the filter which is ok.

Post a picture of where you have that valve positioned.

Dan

 

[Russell King]

@TheOldHokie I have a question about that directional valve that may help…

Is the valve screwed into the case to some particular extent before the stops are installed or is it more like a ball valve that is on/off in a 90 degree turn?

In other words, if it has been turned a number of complete turns how do you get it turned to the correct position now if that matters?

I looked at the illustrated parts list and “think” I see a screwed section on the stem (like a hose bib stem).

I think he may need to screw it down firmly and then turn it back to the ”open” position before it is in the correct position.

 

[MartinmMc]

I've painted where roll pins should be & the pointer

 

[TheOldHokie]

@TheOldHokie I have a question about that directional valve that may help…

Is the valve screwed into the case to some particular extent before the stops are installed or is it more like a ball valve that is on/off in a 90 degree turn?

In other words, if it has been turned a number of complete turns how do you get it turned to the correct position now if that matters?

I looked at the illustrated parts list and “think” I see a screwed section on the stem (like a hose bib stem).

I think he may need to screw it down firmly and then turn it back to the ”open” position before it is in the correct position.

Its a quarter turn valve. Basically a cylinder with a transverse hole.

Dan

 

[TheOldHokie]

I've painted where roll pins should be & the pointer

I believe you have the selector in the wrong position. Turn it clockwise roughly 1/4 turn until the pointer is just short of touching the other paint mark.

I suggest you replace the missing/broken roll pins with ones of the appropriate length.

Dan