Anyone here have a Kaufman dump trailer?

McMXi

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I regularly check Craigslist and there's a used Gator gooseneck trailer for sale near me that is in virtually new condition and would be a no-brainer if 20ft of deck space would work for me, but it won't.


I've seen a few Gator trailers around so this got me looking at their website and clicking on the "get a quote" button late yesterday afternoon. I woke up to an email from a salesman with a quote and a lot of information, and like Kaufman they do direct sales with pick up at a number of their facilities.

Based on the specs and the quote, Gator makes an awesome trailer at a much better price than PJ. Their 25+5 is around 20% more than the "equivalent" Kaufman, but it's arguably a better trailer with a lot of nice features. If I were intending to use the trailer a lot, i.e. daily, weekly, or even every other week, I think the added cost would be well worth it to get a higher quality trailer with a much better warranty. As it is, I'm not under the illusion that I'm getting the best 25+5 trailer out there, or the even the best value for money. All I can hope for is that it's good enough for my needs and that it provides many years of reliable service.

Options are good, so maybe look at Gator if you're considering a new trailer.
 
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Tughill Tom

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Just pulled the trigger on a 7X14ft, 14K Sure-Trac Dumper bumper pull, Pick it up next week.
 
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Tughill Tom

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Got it home after a 2" snow event here in the North Country and NYS putting down 1/2 million tons of Salt, Sand and Brine on every road I was on.
A quick Pressure wash was needed. Very happy with it the way it tow's so far.
Working on the sideboards and head rail materials and getting them weather protected.
dump trailer.jpg
 
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McMXi

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Got it home after a 2" snow event here in the North Country and NYS putting down 1/2 million tons of Salt, Sand and Brine on every road I was on.
A quick Pressure wash was needed. Very happy with it the way it tow's so far.
Working on the sideboards and head rail materials and getting them weather protected.
View attachment 151238
Nice!

Dump trailers are so useful. My 16ft PJ has 2ft sides and I bought the optional 2ft expanded steel side extensions which work great when picking up firewood. It worked well for the BX25 too. I'm hoping that the roads are free of snow, ice and salt in late April or early May when I pick up the new Kaufman gooseneck.

pf_dump_f250_wood.jpg


f250_pj_bx25.jpg
 
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RCW

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Got it home after a 2" snow event here in the North Country and NYS putting down 1/2 million tons of Salt, Sand and Brine on every road I was on.
A quick Pressure wash was needed. Very happy with it the way it tow's so far.
Working on the sideboards and head rail materials and getting them weather protected.
View attachment 151238
Tom - - I have a buddy with one similar. Got it shortly after he got a subcompact MF TLB.

He was doing a lot of driveway and drainage work around his house.

He could make a couple trips to one of the local gravel pits and dump before work.

Said it was one of his best investments. Made life a lot simpler/quicker....

Looks great - - - best wishes with it.
 

biketopia

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Uhh, I really want a dump trailer! I've had my buddies at my house the past 5 weeks while he does some work on our basement, so handy.

I really like the placement of the ram on the Sure-Trac. I've gotten a little aggressive with weight on my buddies that has a single, non sissor ram towards the back third of the box. It will try to lift the back of the dump body before it lifts the front to dump.
 

trackman23

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Got it home after a 2" snow event here in the North Country and NYS putting down 1/2 million tons of Salt, Sand and Brine on every road I was on.
A quick Pressure wash was needed. Very happy with it the way it tow's so far.
Working on the sideboards and head rail materials and getting them weather protected.
View attachment 151238
That is a nice looking barn!
 

The Evil Twin

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I really like the placement of the ram on the Sure-Trac. I've gotten a little aggressive with weight on my buddies that has a single, non sissor ram towards the back third of the box. It will try to lift the back of the dump body before it lifts the front to dump.
Most manufacturers offer the "telescopic" ram. There are pros and cons of each. IMHO, the single ram non scissor is the lowest grade option.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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the dummers to walk away from are those with the pump and battery mounted UNDER the dump box !
i can't believe anyone would design/build/sell such a trailer.
If you have to ask why ? consider 6,000# of 'fresh' cow poop in the trailer and a) pump fails, b) battery fails or c) control valve fails.
 
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McMXi

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Most manufacturers offer the "telescopic" ram. There are pros and cons of each. IMHO, the single ram non scissor is the lowest grade option.
Both of my PJ dump trailers have the hydraulic scissor lift system and I don't think they offer any other type. I have no experience with any other type of lift system so don't know what the best is.

Has anyone figured out a good way to operate the hydraulics from within the cab of the truck. My new truck has upfitter switches, not that I couldn't add a switch to the F-250. The problem is there's only one available 12V wire in the 7-way connector. I suppose some diodes could be used to hijack another circuit that wouldn't be needed while dumping the contents e.g. indicators.

What I'm saying is that I'd like to have a switch in the cab that could raise and lower the bed of the dump trailer. I added the wireless remote to the 16ft but it doesn't always work well due to the receiver being in just about the worst position in terms of being blocked by metal parts.

pj_04.jpg


pj_03.jpg
 

Lil Foot

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Has anyone figured out a good way to operate the hydraulics from within the cab of the truck.
My LoadTrail came with a long lead switch box that can be operated from the cab of the truck.
ltex.jpg
 
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The Evil Twin

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Both of my PJ dump trailers have the hydraulic scissor lift system and I don't think they offer any other type. I have no experience with any other type of lift system so don't know what the best is.

Has anyone figured out a good way to operate the hydraulics from within the cab of the truck. My new truck has upfitter switches, not that I couldn't add a switch to the F-250. The problem is there's only one available 12V wire in the 7-way connector. I suppose some diodes could be used to hijack another circuit that wouldn't be needed while dumping the contents e.g. indicators.

What I'm saying is that I'd like to have a switch in the cab that could raise and lower the bed of the dump trailer. I added the wireless remote to the 16ft but it doesn't always work well due to the receiver being in just about the worst position in terms of being blocked by metal parts.

View attachment 151278

View attachment 151279
PJ does offer the telescopic with some models. I have seen them while shopping.
For in cab controls using the upfitters, I'm thinking of using a secondary cable. Not through the lighting harness. Part of the reason is safety. I could see myself inadvertently hitting the switch when picking up my coffee cup. Using a 2nd cable, I can leave it disconnected until I get out to open the trailer doors.
 
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biketopia

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Surplus Center sells the two-button dump bed switch pendants, they might also have a long lead. I like the idea Evil Twin suggested with a second controller in the cab and a plug at the back you hook up when opening the gate.
 
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McMXi

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My LoadTrail came with a long lead switch box that can be operated from the cab of the truck.
View attachment 151280
I have those extension cords and remotes on all three PJ trailers, but with a big and long F-250/F-450 I have to add an additional extension. In addition, it's awkward and messy dragging the remote up to the cab, passing it through the window etc. When I head to the local dump, it's pretty nasty in the summer months with dust, wasps, stench etc., so if I could have the windows closed and A/C on I'd be a lot happier.
 
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McMXi

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PJ does offer the telescopic with some models. I have seen them while shopping.
For in cab controls using the upfitters, I'm thinking of using a secondary cable. Not through the lighting harness. Part of the reason is safety. I could see myself inadvertently hitting the switch when picking up my coffee cup. Using a 2nd cable, I can leave it disconnected until I get out to open the trailer doors.
Good point! I'm ok with adding another receptacle to both trucks that would allow me to plug the extension from the hydraulic pumps directly into the truck and then into a cab mounted switch. Heck, I could even buy a 15ft extension as shown above and wire it to a switch in the cab, and leave the end tucked out of the way to make a direct connection to the extension from the pumps.
 
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hedgerow

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Now days pretty much any semi pulling a grain trailer or a end dump has at the least one extra cord from tractor truck to the trailer. I have electric tarp and trap openers on my grain trailers so I don't get out of the cab to unload. Open the tarp from them to probe the load and open the traps to dump. End dump and dump truck guys have a electrical over air to trip the gate on the dump box. No reason not to have another cord on a pickup to run your dump trailer.
 
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McMXi

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Now days pretty much any semi pulling a grain trailer or a end dump has at the least one extra cord from tractor truck to the trailer. I have electric tarp and trap openers on my grain trailers so I don't get out of the cab to unload. Open the tarp from them to probe the load and open the traps to dump. End dump and dump truck guys have a electrical over air to trip the gate on the dump box. No reason not to have another cord on a pickup to run your dump trailer.
I'm liking how you think. Added to my projects list. (y)
 

The Evil Twin

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I'm liking how you think. Added to my projects list. (y)
I'm sure you are smart enough to know but I'll say it anyway:
The remote in the trailer is closing dry contacts (the push buttons) to send on- board battery voltage to the pump. The upfitters are wet contacts. They send out truck voltage. So you'd need to add an isolation relay. The relay coil would be energized by the upfitter. The wires for up/ down from the trailer remote would go to the contacts.
 
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McMXi

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I'm sure you are smart enough to know but I'll say it anyway:
The remote in the trailer is closing dry contacts (the push buttons) to send on- board battery voltage to the pump. The upfitters are wet contacts. They send out truck voltage. So you'd need to add an isolation relay. The relay coil would be energized by the upfitter. The wires for up/ down from the trailer remote would go to the contacts.
Thanks for the heads up. I haven't even begun to look into what's involved but your post is helpful.
 
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