Recent content by Ursa Minor Beta

Haha. Yes. I am actually a bit more south than Austria but in the general area ... :) I am still trying to figure out the various differences in the d1005 engines. Some have a hose attached to the engine block close to the oil filter. ( See first image ) On others this opening is not used. (...

Ah. Ok. I see. I am getting a bit confused about the different versions of the engine. I guess though that 22@3000 is not sooo different from the 25@3600 Was wondering if these refer to sustained running or max peak for a short term?

Ah. I see thank you. So the insides are the same. No worries about missing parts then, I assume.

As I am currently scouting for a replacement D1005 I came across various second hand offers which have different HP at RPM specs. It seems that the normal D1005-E3B is rated at 25HP at 3600 RPM. But I also came across one for example with 22HP at 3000 RPM Is that cap done with governor weights...

Hello, I am in the process of replacing the core Kubota D1005 in my boat engine. Now the original one seems to be different with the fuel pump system. This is the one like in mine: and these are the different ones: Can anyone here explain the differences to me? Thanks!

Hello, as I noted in other posts here, the D1005 base engine in my Beta Marine is in dire need of a rebuild due to many small and some bigger issues. Now in my current situation and location it seems to be a better idea to just exchange the base engine with a better second hand one. Now while...

Well, I guess the gauge i was using was maybe faulty. Else I would not get it to start. Since cylinder 1 and 2 came up with more or less the same values, I assume they should be ok. I can get the engine to start now quite reliably. I played with the two setting screws until I got it to run...

Hello, in the other two threads I already discussed my saga of the not well starting D1005. Once the engine runs, it runs nicely but starting is very hard. Since my last post I had the injectors and injector pump checked and resealed by a professional. I checked the compression and on cylinder...

As I am still mnot having any success, let me just show you some more images.

The first thing I checked when the problem occured was the solenoid in fact. But that was not the issue. So today I messed a bit with the bolt ( 020 ) and it seems that that helped. Will see if it is a consistant improvement. Not sure what bolt (070) does but maybe someone can enlighten me...

I always shut it off with the solenoid switch. Only a couple of times with the lever when I did some work on the electrical system. This is how it looks there.

Well the problem had started at some point after the engine was not used for four months. Not sure what could have caused the issue. After seeing this drawing I wonder if maybe the spring in the 040 assembly broke / wore out? But since I dont know what it does or how it actually works its hard...

Ooookeee. So now I know where the main issue is located! There is some issue with the Governor / Throttle control mechanics. Despite the blowby and non-sealing valves, I can get the engine to respond to throttle by manually pulling on the Fork Lever 1 (6) on the diagram. See video: However...

So. After taking the air intake manifold off, realized that there is smoke coming OUT of one of the intakes. I guess I have a bigger problem then. Weighing my options. Could take the head off and see how big the issue is. But then... that should not have to do with the engine not reacting to...

Thanks all! Well so after that ordeal is over I moved back t the original thread and I'll keep trying to find the issue there.