Recent content by timsch

Which blasting gun do you have? (I assume you're satisfied with it). FRom my search, it looks like there are plenty of junk ones out there.... My Fluke 177 meter does have a diode test selection. I'm trying to understand your directions to test the diodes individually. I am testing just as...

One copper washer on one of the studs came off and will be reattached. There were only 2 of these. Re: testing diodes. I only have the manual to go off of, and Fig.79 shows testing at the three terminal pairs, w/ 2 tests each on the outer terminal only, so a total of 6. i'll have to get...

Got the diode plate off. Sandblasted it, removing some of what looks like coating over some of the copper. Not sure if that's a problem or not. Testing of the stator checked out. Testing of the diode plate seemed to, although I only got readings the opposite of figure 79, with the...

That looks like it. Good to know. It'll be a few days before I can get back to this. Thanks all. I'll update before long.

Sure, I'll keep this thread updated until it's resolved one way or the other. I do have a soldering iron with a wide tip that should be strong enough. I have a soldering gun if needed. I assume I apply heat to what's called the "outside terminal" in the pasted Fig.79 above and pull the...

Thanks for all the assistance. I'm planning on putting it back together and testing again rather than tearing it down any further. Nothing looks bad so far internally and it all checks out so far, so I need to step back a bit. I realize I had a major short between the ears on one of my 1st...

Yes, I do have the shop manual, and it does have a good diagnostic section that I'm working through. It shows the stator and diode plate separated in this graphic Top-side of diode plate is shown in post #23. Here's the underside: Are the diodes fixed to the plate and the wiring coming...

When I did the continuity check I posted on above, I measured across each pair (10, 2 & 6 o'clock). All had continuity. I then measured between adjacent pairs and also got continuity, which according to this video are supposed to be isolated. I rechecked, and I have continuity between all 3...

Got the rotor out. Bearing stayed in the housing, but it appears to be in good shape. Brushes move freely & look good as do the surfaces on the rotor they contact. The rotor passes continuity tests as i've seen online. Checking the stator windings, one video said there should be no...

Thanks all for the inputs, and specifically the recommendations for alternative suppliers. I didn't know about either of those two places mentioned above before this. That's comforting to know.

No, I haven't made it to the brush holder. If I'm not mistaken, it's attached to that larger stud shown in the bottom pic. Between my slide hammer and Hugo's suggestion, it should come out.

Maybe not, but far be it from me not to give it a shot. Did you do anything other than tapping and prying away on it? Was the bearing in that recessed area of that end cover? If so, I could probably spray some penetrating fluid down in there.

Mine's been around the Gulf coast its whole life as far as I know, so yes, it's condensation in the tank. Regional issues. At least my vehicle's don't rust from salted roads.

I removed and started disassembling the alternator today to do an inspection - at least look at the brushes. It was filthy. I was not able to get it all of the way apart, unfortunately. I'm getting separation this far, but it's hanging up. Not sure of what is holding it , but didn't want to...

I had a rusted tank to deal with a while back. This pic was after I had broken away any deteriorated metal from the bad areas. For my repair, I used my MIG welder to fill the holes. Aluminum or brass held behind the hole makes this easier. Most of the smaller holes were easy without burning...