Recent content by MtnViewRanch

The issue with pretty much all of the Kubota rear remotes is the excessive internal valve leakage, allowing cylinder drift. There are several different solutions for dealing with that issue. Some valves are not as bad as others, just an odds on issue. Depending what all you do with the tractor...

I believe that you are considering electric valves, yes? Electric valves are far from optimum for controlling top & tilt cylinders. I'm not saying that they don't work, but in no way can you feather the controls as you can with manually controlled valves. And the need to feather the T&T controls...

Just a friendly note. You do not have to get off the tractor to latch the QH. Leave the levers down and it will still latch and then be locked. By doing this, you have just cut your trips off the tractor for latching in half. ;)

I believe that the ideal length is about 20"-29" for the smaller M series models. A 2 1/2" dia up to a 3" dia cylinder should be used. Look at the following link, base the mid stroke of the hydraulic unit on the asked for dimension, plus or minus a fraction of an inch...

Movement in all directions is preferred. Whatever you get, be sure that the boom is long enough that you can spin the blade 360* when connected to the 3pt. The heavier, the better. Good luck with your decision. :)

A couple of ways to look at these. Get the GS1572 and maybe have to baby it a bit. Get the GS1560 and go to work. Another recommendation, get your rear tires filled if you have not already. Lots of people figure bigger is better, that is not always the case. Good luck with your decision. :)

OK, maybe 2 hydraulic side links and plumb the accumulator into them? :unsure: I don't know if that could be done or not, just a thought.

Are your tires loaded, if not, fill them. Filling the tires makes them act more like shock absorbers instead of ballons. Run less air pressure. Drive slower. Just a few things that will make the ride smoother and cut down on the bouncing without having to reinvent the wheel. Good luck. (y)

Well, there it is, my mistake.:oops: But then again, I thought that we were talking about a box blade for a B series tractor. If you can show 5 foot box blade that would typically be used for a B series tractor that costs $7,000, please do. :unsure:

Please, please provide a link to a 7-8K box blade. This is something that I really want to see. o_O

To start with, try using the upper holes in the lower clevises on the 2 side links. You are at the upper limits of the tractor's hitch, so you might need to fudge the hydraulic pressure a bit. Good luck. :)

look at the link below. This helps you to determine what you need for your hydraulic top link. https://www.fitritehydraulics.com/toplink.html You will also need a way to control that top link, so you will need a rear remote also.

Here ya go. https://www.hydraulicstore.com/hydraulic/quick-couplers/hydraulic/flat-face/connect-under-pressure/couplers?page=1

I have yet to see a hydraulic link retract on its own when there is weight pulling it out. You would have to have a constant pressure pushing inward and a really, really poor quality control valve. I suppose if everything was just right it could happen, but 99.9999% sure that it would not. ;)...

You would normally disconnect the rod end coupler only.