Recent content by MtnViewRanch

You asked this last Thursday. :unsure: Try the following if you want more than one recommendation. I also recommend going with the factory rear remotes for a cleaner look. You will need check valves though, if you use the Kubota rear remotes. Fit Rite Hydraulics WR long Summit Hydraulics.

I am curious as to where you will be getting the 5 switch control grip at a reasonable cost. :unsure: Or maybe I should ask, what is a reasonable cost to you?

As has already been mentioned, the cat 2 stuff is 2" wide and will need to be ground down to 1 3/4" in width. I believe that the bushing is already 1 3/4" wide. Please report back as to how things worked out for you. :)

Typically, rule of thumb is that the diameter of the threads is how much should be in the threaded portion. So about 1". 1/2" is a problem waiting to happen. :eek: Have in mind that the ball swivel width at the tractor side is only 1 3/4" with a cat 1, 3/4" dia pin. So if you get the...

For your circumstances, RUN, don't walk and purchase that blade. For others, as always, circumstances can dictate what you can and can't do. As far as ditching, yes it can be done. Pictures are of my 8' blade putting in a temporary water line.

Good luck. (y)

So, when you say every option, does that include 3 rear remotes as well as the top & tilt cylinders? I ask because the Kubota top & tilt set isn't really engineered for Kubota cat 1-2-size tractors and doesn't have any check valves, which are pretty much required with the Kubota rear remote...

John Deere now has a 5075E HST machine. Sounds like it is pretty much what you wanted. If you have not taken delevery yet, might be something to consider? :unsure:

You should be driving right now if you aren't already. :)

Exactly, by far safer (no poisons) and probably faster. Up and down the road every other week and your drive always looks good. I have 2 of them, a 5-footer for smaller areas and a 7-footer for the main drive. (y) (y)

You will not slow the T&T cylinders down using 1/4" hoses. Why do you not want flow restrictors? You should be using 2" dia cylinders for your T&T units, .030 restrictors on each port are perfect for your tractor.

It's easy enough to add a diverter-s to gain some couplers. Either manual or electric. A picture showing a triple diverter for a John Deere.

Gannon all the way as long as it is a 7 footer. It is well over 1000lbs. The picture shows a cat 1-2 hitch, so you are good to go. My 6' foot Gannon is right at 1000 lbs. You need to get a cat 1-2 top link or be prepared to bush down a cat 2 top link. The tractor end takes a cat 1 (3/4") pin...

At the height of COVID, I was at a 40-week lead time. :eek: Currently at an 8-week lead time. (y)

Pictures and whose cylinders do you have? Do the following tests, it is best to have a base line to work from. https://www.fitritehydraulics.com/cylindertest.html