Recent content by MtnViewRanch

If anyone is serious about grading, they need heavy implements. Lightweight implements leave you with only being able to work with soft ground. The L2800 will handle heavy enough implements to get some work done. The secret is to purchase heavy implements and understand how to use them. A...

Get a 7' blade that weighs between 7-800 lbs. To light, and you are just wasting your time. The other thing when looking, specifically because you are cleaning out ditches, get one with more than 24" of offset capability. I know that Land Pride has an RPT3584 that offsets 30". I also very highly...

I'm curious, how and where are you thinking of mounting the valves and couplers? :unsure:

The 18 1/8-26 3/8" will work fine for you. I typically recommend an 18"-26" working length.

Look at the following link to determine the best overall hydraulic link working range. https://fitritehydraulics.com/toplink.html Not that it matters now, the OP already has one now. Regarding the quick hitch, how often does a person actually have the 3pt all the way down? Point being...

If you are talking about having 2 hydraulic side links and having them long enough that the lift arms lift as far as they can and then push the draft links down, while that will work, for how long is a question. When I say it is a question, I knew a person that did that and broke things...

Top & tilt set if you do much grading. Similar to those pictured. Lots of different implements that can make use of them. Rear grading blade. Box blade with hydraulic actuated scarifiers. Snow blower with hydraulic actuated chute & or deflector. That's just a start.

Yes, the piston with the pressure relief goes in the ripper actuating cylinder.

You won't. The Kubota cylinder (if you can even purchase the side link alone) has #6 o-ring boss ports. No one other than Fit Rite that I am aware of has #6 banjo bolts. Not that they can't be made, but you won't find them at any retail supplier that are for hydraulic pressures.

Look at the picture. If I remember correctly, the top clevis is at 16* with a 5/8" pin hole and the lower clevis is at 7* and has a 1/2" pinhole. I'm not sure you will find that on the shelf anywhere. :unsure:

The 18 1/8" - 26 3/8 top link would be fine, just need to grind the tractor end ball swivel down to 1 9/16" wide. I don't think that they have a side link that will work properly. The clevises need to be the correct angles, have the proper throat depth and have the correct pin hole sizes. Take a...

If you have a plug-in multiplier, that in itself can be the issue. That is a lot of weight hanging off of the couplers.

Actually I believe that it is 1 9/16" wide. Other than an OEM top link, you will most likely need to grind one down from 1 3/4" wide. Good luck

To the best of my knowledge, the pin-pin length added on every Pat's QH cat 1 or cat 2 is 3 3/4".

Pat's QH adds 3 3/4" to the draft arm length. A good working length for you would be 23"-35".