Recent content by jyoutz

I I’ve been doing it this way for over 25 years. it works fine.

No need to modify anything. Use a rear blade and spin the moldboard around so the cutting edge faces the rear. Then drive forward and float the blade to move snow. The blade will glide over the gravel while moving snow.

Snow geese and cranes wintering in the Rio Grande valley in central New Mexico.

After summer rains

I have had excellent results with Harbor Freight Hercules tools. A five year warranty and they don’t give you the run around. If you say the tool does work, they look up your purchase date and tell you to go get another one off the shelf if less than 5 years. But I’ve seldom had anything fail.

Independent shops, no authorized dealers will work on equipment with altered emissions systems. This means no warranty service.

As much as your 3ph can lift. LOL. Heavier is always better when it comes to blades. Concrete blocks are way too light.

Most forests in the west are way overstocked with trees, small trees with little commercial value, so it costs a considerable amount to thin them. This has occurred due to late 1800/early 1900s heavy logging and suppression of the historical natural frequent fires that kept forests more open...

At that price, I suspect a scam.

I’m wondering why the front mounts are necessary. All of the canopies I’m familiar with just mount to the ROPS.

No it’s not. And resale value is also a factor that is often overlooked.

MPGs isn’t a personal opinion.

Or whiplash?

Do facts bother you?

Just pointing out the mpg differences. 10 mpg sucks, especially when I can tow at 18 mpg. Diesels get 30% better fuel economy than a gasser v8 doing the same work making the higher priced fuel cheaper overall. But people are free of course to choose the 10 mpg option. Seems like the 1970s trucks...