Recent content by jimh406

My neighbor use to maintain our community gravel road with a rear blade. It "worked". You can use a less efficient tool to get the same job done. Not as good as my grader/scraper and took him more time. A box blade would take more time, too. I can produce results similar to McMXi's land...

You might try looking on https://www.thehulltruth.com/ if you haven't.

Somebody must still be falling for these. ;)

The general recommendation is 5HP per foot, but you do need to make sure the rotary cutter can handle the power you are sending it. My rotary cutter is "too big" for my tractor based on that rating, but my dealer suggested 6 ft to be able to go under barb wire fences. My mower is a Land Pride...

I did the after Winter community road maintenance. I cleaned up the edges with my rear blade. Then, I switched to the grader/scraper. First, I used the scarifiers since there were quite a few potholes. Then, put them up and ran the grader/scraper without the scarifiers. Everything was going...

I might be part to blame. I took my snow plow off my Polaris Ranger yesterday and plan to take the rear blade off the tractor after I do some light passes on the community road today. :D The long range forecast only says wintry mix. Since we have 4x4s and snow melts pretty quickly, I feel...

I don’t know, but one video showed a flail doing a good job. I’ll try to find it.

There are flails designed for grass.

If you are considering a LX with MMM, I believe the LX attaches differently than the B2601. Someone who has an LX could confirm.

The B is quite a bit larger. Messicks has a YouTube comparison. From what I understand, the B mower attaches differently than the BX. Here's a video that describes how.

It's the same amount of labor to put in the non-OEM that you don't know will work or not or what the longevity looks like with non-OEM. I'm assuming the clutch components aren't that expensive. I think OEM gives you a higher likelihood of success.

Unfortunately, I bought both the telescoping arms and QH. I feel like the QH eliminates the need for the telescoping arms, but maybe I figure out how to use both at the same time. ;)

Fwiw, I had a weld break on my grader/scraper. I didn't spend any time to determine if it was a bad design, bad weld, or both. I just broke out my grinder and clamps and welded it. It probably shouldn't broken at the weld, but oh, well. Annoying, but fixable.

I'm assuming you will do quite a lot with your tractor. So, I'd get the hydraulic top link. It will just make almost every attachment on the rear easier to use and more effective.

Part of a good design should include the ability to execute it correctly and include quality control. Sure, the person who spec'd the loader frame might have done their job.