Recent content by Fedup

I still think the our bolts on the center gearbox will be easier to deal with than reaching under the stump jumper for the nuts on the leaking gearbox mounting bolts. Your choice.

No way would I fight that stump jumper and pull the gearbox. I would remove the coupler on the other side, remove the four bolts holding the center gearbox and shove it one way or the other to allow the flange to come off the input shaft of the box in question.

https://kpad.kubota.com/books/1561/figs/65164 Lots of neat stuff in there. Hope you let us know what you find when you get into it.

You might start by tightening the hose clamps on said rubber line. That's cheap, simple, and could make a difference.

While your basic premise about changes in oil temperature may be correct, in practice that temperature change will be affected by ambient temperature, workload on the hydraulic system, as well as length of time in operation. Noticing a change caused by a gallon or two difference in total volume...

Interesting concept, but I'm having a hard time understanding how a temperature gauge, regardless of how/where it's mounted, is going to tell you when you run out of oil. Possibly when the gauge has no reading at all due to lack of contact with any fluid?

Even teachers were different back then.

I've added electric condenser fans more than once. My suggestion is this. Place the biggest fan you can fit in front of the condenser forcing air towards the radiator. Just wire it up with jumper leads directly to the battery for openers. Try it out when you work the tractor on the next hot day...

What changes when you tie up and remove the weight from the brake pedals?

There are hydraulic pumps and there are hydraulic pumps. Yes, some are "rebuildable" so there are obviously businesses that do that sort of work. In this case the pump in question is an aluminum body gear pump. Those are typically NOT affordably rebuildable. Re "sealing" these pumps is commonly...

If you have this valve, why not just remove the plug and see what it is? From here it looks like an allen head pipe plug. Possibly 1/4"? Then stick a small screwdriver through the hole and see if it goes into the next passage where the fitting is installed. How hard can it be?

You haven't mentioned that you checked (and cleaned) all four battery cable connections. The ground cable to tractor frame connection would be a prime suspect here.

Somehow I doubt the problem has anything to do with hydraulic oil. If you're convinced the external shift linkage is all doing it's job and it still feels mushy shifting into reverse with sporadic non engagement issues I'd suspect there are some clutch plates going bad in the reverse side of the...

I have an assortment of Snapon heel bars in different sizes. They don't bend. I've used them many times on stubborn injectors, putting one on each side under both ears of the injector body next to the studs. No contact with manifolds or valve cover, just the surface of the head. Have used them...

What have you tried so far? I would try a couple of large heel bars, one on side and see what that brings. A slide hammer is a "last resort" type of thing because proper adapters will probably need to be home made. That's been my experience. It usually takes an old injector body for parts to...