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The oil cooler isn't a high pressure circuit. Even if it were, I've repaired a great many steel lines for one reason or other rather than replacing them. What's so special about this one (or the break) that would prevent repairing it? Or you just reluctant to do so?

I can't help wondering what the pressure readings might have been that indicated they needed to make a case with Kubota. The tractor is (probably) fifteen years old, so Kubota's not likely to be too deeply interested in decisions on repairs. Or maybe they simply went up the chain because they...

I might be tired, but I can still change seals in a steering knuckle in a few hours.

You're going to wait until fall because you figure it would take you all summer to put a couple of seals in?

I can't help leaning toward a clutch issue here, but who knows? Main hydraulic system all working right, steering as well, would (sort of) rule out a hydraulic issue. A shuttle clutch problem? Maybe, but both sides laying down (just after a split)? Not all that likely. I'd be curious about the...

Some details still elude me. This "no drive" condition came AFTER the last split and bearing repair? PTO operation (pulls a load, not just spins an empty shaft) is okay? If that's a yes on both counts I have to ask if the results are both forward and reverse travel? Something power shuttle...

I think you're going to be proficient at splitting this tractor. To start with, the "pedal not working" symptom should have been addressed when you put it together the first time. That said, It's my opinion the "sticking to the hub" condition could have easily compromised the new clutch you put...

After reading your first post a few times, I'm still a little confused as to the actual sequence of events. You had a clutch failure. You split the tractor, replaced a (seemingly) worn clutch. Installed a new throw out bearing (which didn't work and something was apparently "sticking to the...

Others may have different opinions, but I think when the bearings start to go, the rest of the clutch is probably ready to retire as well. I would just replace the whole assembly.

Most ZD mowers I've worked on have final drive housings that are separate from the rest of the machine. Each axle housing has it's own oil reservoir and must be checked and serviced individually. They often get overlooked during servicing and sometimes bad things happen.

You're buying the$12 pump online? They're only good for twenty minutes.

I would expect the clutch to be similar to other models, where the brake plate is spring applied and will come on as soon as the PTO is turned off and pressure to the clutch pack is released. Heavy momentum of a driven implement will try to overcome that. Some models have an over running clutch...

Yes, it should move about 1/4 turn until the brake plate hits the main case and stops the shaft from going any further. I guess at this point I would briefly try the PTO again and see what happens.

If there's any gap at all when you dry fit the cover, I wouldn't use the silicon method. You don't want to rely on silicon to fill a gap. Too much chance of cracking the flange. I've made plenty of shim gaskets from nothing but computer paper. Often I just use the receipts they print off when I...

With engine off can you turn the PTO shaft more than just a few degrees in both directions before it stops? If yes, then the plates are PROBABLY okay, and the brake disc is still functioning. On the other hand, if it won't turn at all without the engine turning then the clutch could be...

Checking contact pattern would be just a "peace of mind" thing, as no shims or adjustments appear to be involved. Straight cut gears really don't require that anyway. If all you're doing is replacing bottom seal and gasket it won't affect gear contact anyway. If the backlash "feels" reasonable...

As I see it the gasket has no bearing on gear contact adjustment. The bottom bearings and spacer sleeve fit into a machined bore in the case. Actually (unless I missed it) I don't see any shims anywhere for contact pattern adjustment. The gasket in question is variable only to fill the gap...

Maybe I'm just stupid, but I have to wonder WHY you need to do that? Having split literally hundreds of cab tractors (both large and small) I can't recall ever removing a cab to do it. You have oil leaking from a clutch housing weep hole? What can that be other than a transmission input shaft...

You might try this. Fit wrenches on both tie rods and try to break one loose from the steering cylinder rod. Maybe the one you're after will come loose first. Problem solved. If not, unscrew the one that did come loose and back it out far enough to fit a regular wrench on the shaft flat spots...

You won't know if it's repairable until you see all the parts. If the bottom gear has moved downwards and no longer contacts the top gear, no teeth appear broken or missing, the box it probably toast. Stump jumpers are only worth so much. Slip clutches even less. If the clutch is adjusted so...