Recent content by #40Fan

I was the same way when I was looking at it. I could have purchased it from the company directly and saved a few $$, but buying from Amazon, I knew I'd have recourse if it turned out to be a pile of junk. Other than it can't weld as long as the Miller could at the highest setting and it didn't...

I hate to say this, but I bought a $200 MIG welder off of Amazon that I am amazed with. My Millermatic 221 that has auto set fried its motherboard and I needed a welder faster than I could get the board, so I bought an Arccaptain 165A and had it in hand the next day. 110/220 volt capable, gas...

$1200 or less with alignment at a good shop. Heck, I bet that you could drive it here, have the parts shipped from RockAuto and return home for less than a $1000 if I did the work for you.

Your suggestion to remove the hoses and place in a bucket will check the flow one direction, but you do need to test return flow. If, as LorenS suggests, there is an internal hose issue that only blocks flow on the return side, your test won't catch it.

If I couldn't find the correct size, but could find the next millimeter smaller one easily, I'd have a ring/bushing made to take up the difference between the gland bore and smaller O.D. seal. That seal doesn't take much, if any abuse, and would easily stay in the ring/bushing.

With the cylinder removed, does the deflector move freely?

^^ Good question. He sould be measuring the rod for the I.D. and the gland for the O.D.

Have you looked on Home - Oz Seals ? They are in Australia. Edit: Are you sure it is metric?

Why put a new one in a junk head?

Not for just this test.

Any chance the chain should be on the other side of the pulley?

That is a frost/freeze plug pushed out. Since your initial crack was just in the head, and not in the block, and you've found this plug pushed out, I would tap the plug back in and do a pressure test on the cooling system. Look for other external coolant leaks and maybe even drain the oil and...

Didn't the ECU on these like to take a crap if you looked at them funny? I think they even had an extended warranty if you were in the right range of VIN numbers.

Yep, take a propane torch to it and get it hot to boil off any oils/fluids. I doubt it will hold, though. Maybe if you pull the guts out of the radiator cap to keep it from building pressure.

I want to say that is where the head meets the block and they are both cracked.