Rear Blade Snow Removal - What are your tricks?

[cold1313]

First winter with the Kubota and I have a 72" Landpride blade. We've only had one snow storm this year so I've only had less than 1 hour of seat time. Paved driveway, 600' long.

I took the advice of my father and a few old timers and had the blade in the normal setup position, but drove backwards, so that when I would hit grass, the rounded part of the blade would just rise up into the grass. Worked great, didn't damage the lawn at all.

I saw that some people said this is bad on the 3 point, but since I'm going slower, and can't hit a large hard object, I think it'll work. Then I go back over the areas that need to be clean and use the blade in the traditional dragging method.

I'm personally not a fan of using the bucket in which it would drag along on the concrete or blacktop. Just seems like a lot of wear, especially when I have a blade on the back.

We had fairly light snow, even so, the blade would start to lift off the ground when running backwards. I think over the summer I am going to add some weight to the blade to help with that.

Almost forgot. B3200 HST.


Am I doing anything seriously wrong? Tips, tricks, advice for the rookie? I think I'm doing everything okay, just need to figure out where to pile the snow and how to fit the tractor in the right places without banging into something.

Hoping to get more seat time and some decent snow. I mounted (4) 3W LED's to the ROPS, so I can't wait to use that at night. I think it gives me a sun burn!

 

[Burt]

First winter with the Kubota and I have a 72" Landpride blade. We've only had one snow storm this year so I've only had less than 1 hour of seat time. Paved driveway, 600' long.

I took the advice of my father and a few old timers and had the blade in the normal setup position, but drove backwards, so that when I would hit grass, the rounded part of the blade would just rise up into the grass. Worked great, didn't damage the lawn at all.

I saw that some people said this is bad on the 3 point, but since I'm going slower, and can't hit a large hard object, I think it'll work. Then I go back over the areas that need to be clean and use the blade in the traditional dragging method.

I'm personally not a fan of using the bucket in which it would drag along on the concrete or blacktop. Just seems like a lot of wear, especially when I have a blade on the back.

We had fairly light snow, even so, the blade would start to lift off the ground when running backwards. I think over the summer I am going to add some weight to the blade to help with that.

Almost forgot. B3200 HST.


Am I doing anything seriously wrong? Tips, tricks, advice for the rookie? I think I'm doing everything okay, just need to figure out where to pile the snow and how to fit the tractor in the right places without banging into something.

Hoping to get more seat time and some decent snow. I mounted (4) 3W LED's to the ROPS, so I can't wait to use that at night. I think it gives me a sun burn!

Cold1313'

I don't go backwards with our blade. I only go forward. They are primarily designed to pull. If you set the depth just about an inch above your rear tires, the blade will "follow" you rear tire height at the same depth unless you have some serious moguls. That depth should not scrape or scarf up your driveway. I'm not familiar with land pride's blade. Ours will angle at 45 degrees. It is a Rhino blade. So, I make two passes at 45 degrees grading the snow off to the sides of the driveway.

I never back up in snow using the blade for snow removal. To clean up, I use the bucket for the rest of the removal.

For our garage apron, I use the blade straight, pull out the snow and then pick up and remove with the bucket.

For other touch up, I float the bucket backing up as I go. This just for fine tuning what is left in small rows or piles.

When the weather clears and since you have a paved driveway, you might consider having someone walk beside your tractor and blade to verify a good height that won't scarf your paved driveway. Once you find it, mark it on your 3 point raise/lower lever. Ours has stops on it, so I know exactly where to put the blade every time.

I hope this helps you.

Merry Christmas.

Burt

 

[Eric McCarthy]

I clear snow better backwards then I do going forwards. I can push alot more out of the way and have alot better traction going backwards. I'm impressed with the B6100 2wd and a 4ft blade. I usually hang 100lbs of suite case weights on the blade.

 

[skeets]

I think a rear blade is ok for light say 4 or 5 inches anything more than that in MHO you need a front blade. But then I have use a front blade for more years than I care to think about on jeeps and tractors, and used a rear blade very few times. For road work yes but for snow maybe light stuff not for anything heavy.

 

[cold1313]

Burt -

That's what I do not get with my B3200....I don't think I can "lock" the 3-point into one position. (I'm thinking of the old Ford tractors that you could). When I asked the Kubota dealer, he said "I guess that's only available on the bigger ones"

I have adjustable stops on my 3-point that I loosen with a screw driver. But if I were to hold the lever against that stop, it will still continue (although slowly) to move in that direction. So I'm forced to pretty much have the blade up or down. Ideally I could set it to be 0.5-1" above the ground and be good, but since it appears that I can't, I push. I seem to get more traction with this light B3200.

Long term plans would either be a front blade or a snow blower. But the blowers are so dang expensive that it's just not worth it right now. I'm young enough to strain my neck for now!

 

[Burt]

Burt -

That's what I do not get with my B3200....I don't think I can "lock" the 3-point into one position. (I'm thinking of the old Ford tractors that you could). When I asked the Kubota dealer, he said "I guess that's only available on the bigger ones"

I have adjustable stops on my 3-point that I loosen with a screw driver. But if I were to hold the lever against that stop, it will still continue (although slowly) to move in that direction. So I'm forced to pretty much have the blade up or down. Ideally I could set it to be 0.5-1" above the ground and be good, but since it appears that I can't, I push. I seem to get more traction with this light B3200.

Long term plans would either be a front blade or a snow blower. But the blowers are so dang expensive that it's just not worth it right now. I'm young enough to strain my neck for now!

Ok on the no stops...however, marking pen, tape, or other "reminder" may help you. Put your "marker" on your 3point lever. Or else, just make a stick or a board for sizing and use that. Put the board under your blade for a sizer prior to plowing.

There's always a way to index things be them simple or complex.

If you can't make any of those work, just lower it onto your foot until it hurts, that should about do it.

Just kidding...Merry Christmas.

Burt

Burt

 

[Benhameen]

I turn my blade around the opposite way you would normally use it, for me it doesn't want to dig in, as my driveway is gravel. Also, I angle the blade to one side to kick the snow off the driveway, usually takes a few passes. Once I get to the end I lift the blade then back into the snow to push it out of the way, if needed ill scoop it up with the bucket and move it. In tighter spaces like between the house and barn I'll float the FEL in reverse, this seems to work for me. Of course, I'm only talking about 12" or so of snow. Well I guess I've had a few feet of drifts in between the house and barn. I plowed numerous other driveways in the same manner and it seemed to work pretty well.

Also I thought I read in here that the B series doesn't hold up the 3pt the way most tractors do. Maybe some one with a B series can chime in this.

 

[chim]

..............I'm personally not a fan of using the bucket in which it would drag along on the concrete or blacktop. Just seems like a lot of wear, especially when I have a blade on the back..............

When I saw how fast the blacktop was wearing the factory edge on the FEL it didn't take long to add a wear edge to the bottom. I did this on the B7500 after the first winter (2002/2003) and the steel I bolted to the bottom as a consummable part was still in good shape when I sold the tractor last year.

One of the first mods made to the L3200 when I had it delivered last year was a healthy piece of stainless bar with the front trimmed to roughly a 45 degree angle. It is pretty tough material so the angle was made with the plasma cutter at work and then ground for a finish. To fasten it, stainless studs are puddle welded to the bar and ground flush on the bottom. The studs stick up through the bucket and have nuts on them.

To prevent the ends of the bar from scratching into the blactop, I ground a bit off the bottom surface on about the last 6" or so to round it a bit.

 

[trouble11]

Good job chim,
That looks like it works Great !!!

 

[cold1313]

Nice mod Chim!

 

[jrslick]

I just reverse the blade, offset it at a 45 degree angle and drive down the center of our gravel driveway. Here is my blade in normal set up. Not sure if this blade was a homemade or a rebuild, but it does the job. Just cleared our 10 inch snow that was suppose to be a 2 to 4 inches.

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[cerlawson]

As to backing up plowing snow, well stick with that idea if you must. If your tractor can't take it, well try another brand. I've used blue tractors of about 30 HP and push that snow until all four wheels with chains tend to spin. Never any damage to the tractor parts. Never any gears stripped either. My current smallest of the Kubotas (18HP BX) gets that treatment and snow is piling up and spilling over, yet I keep going with chains on rear. If this small tractor can do that and no damage, well maybe the larger ones can also. I figure tractors are made to work, not just play.

 

[Frank46]

Years back while working for a living at a tank farm we were always the last to be plowed out by the bulldozer. We had this little machine (hyster brand??) that only had a bucket on the front. Soon as it started snowing and we had about 4" on the ground we'd start the machine and just make a basic path for the trucks. If more snow was forcast sometimes we'd do all of the road which was all blacktop. We used to get fuel oil deliveries by barge and tanker so cleared roads were a must. If wet snow we would bring the machine into the shop and heat the shovel with a torch and rub melted wax all over the blade. Snow wouldn't stick to the waxed surfaces. Our trucks basically had a half ton of sand in burlap bags for traction. And if it got really bad on went the chains. I had my '73cj5 with standard transmission and striaght 6 engine. Went the snow went over the hood it was time to call it a day. don't you just love it when they forcast 4-6" and a few hours later it's now a foot on the ground and more to come. Many times we'd have at least 3' of snow on the ground,but couldn't get home cause all the side streets had yet to be plowed. since the jeep had two ranges in 4 wheel drive (HI-Lo) and 30" tires I very rarely got stuck.Frank

 

[skeets]

Ya know Im tired of you bashing the orange tractor, why in heavens name don't you just trade it in on a another blue one and be happy

 

[Kubota_Man]

Ya know Im tired of you bashing the orange tractor, why in heavens name don't you just trade it in on a another blue one and be happy

Well said

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Best snow removal trick of all time... Wait till March or April... walla snow all gone!
Some of the more northern of us might have to wait a little longer!

 

[Eric McCarthy]

You could always get a couple hundred hair driers and hook them up to a 3pt boom and just melt all the snow away with heat...

 

[olthumpa]

You could always get a couple hundred hair driers and hook them up to a 3pt boom and just melt all the snow away with heat...

Not a hair dryer but it works.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAes7fFpgeY

 

[chim]

The 6' rear blade from the last tractor is a bit short with the wider stance of the L3200, so I picked up a 7 footer a week or so ago at TSC. If the blade was used for more than snow, something built better and with more adjustments would be the ticket. It is a fairly heavy blade but it looked like it deserved some reinforcement in case it snags something. It's a whole lot easier to add reinforcing before bending the blade than after.

There was a piece of 3x3 tube steel in the freebie pile that fit perfectly inside the two existing metal plates that are welded to the blade. It doesn't look like square tube because the ends are cut at 45*. While on the table it appeared the factory welds on the two pieces of flat bar that reinforce the square to round junction where it pivots were kinda skimpy, so they were gone over. While I was at it I added a piece of tire for a squeegee.

We did the blade on the tractor at work like that and the operator gave it rave reviews so I figured I'd give it a whirl. If it doesn't suit a quick session with the impact wrench will return the blade to its original configuration. Surprisingly the factory bolts were just long enough.

Here's a shot with the added reinforcement. I don't have a pic of it but the tire tread was sandwiched between the cutting edge and the blade with about an inch of rubber below the cutting edge. C'mon SNOW!

 

[Gso125]

Chim I have the same setup from tsc but the 6 foot blade. So far it's worked great. I love how you reinforced it. I wish I could weld better and had a setup so I could tackle more stuff. My neighbor does a lot of stuff like this but I hate bug him. Anyways nice job