Tundra is US built, Kubota is US assembled. I guess F150s are mexican rice burners though? Or would you consider them bean burners?Don't matter its still rice![]()
Tundra is US built, Kubota is US assembled. I guess F150s are mexican rice burners though? Or would you consider them bean burners?Don't matter its still rice![]()
I would be a brand new Tundra. I just wish they made them with a manual transmission. I have been driving a stick for 20 years now and will miss it if I have to make this move from my Tocoma which has a stick.Not sure the year Tundra you're looking at, but the newer ones will tow 10k without breaking a sweat. With the 5.7 motor, they have a 6spd auto and 4.30 in the rear end. Don't think I'd try it with an F150 or silverado though. You will need trailer brakes at that weight though.
I just bought a CarMate #10000GVW 18' beavertail for my L3800. I have the LA524 loader and B77 Hoe. Dealer called today to let me know the trailer is in, can't wait to get it so I can move my tractor. Everyone I talked with recommended 18' Min. with most saying to get the 20'. I did fit the tractor on my 14' landscape trailer however it was tight and maxed out for weight. The bucket was rolled up on the front rail with the hoe swung to the side to get the gate closed.I don't know the exact length but with loader and backhoe you will take up almost the entire floor of a 16' trailer to get the propper tongue weight.
This is my opinion but I'll not feel right if I didn't throw it out there. I think you will regret getting a aluminum trailer. If you were running up and down the hyw with a hotrod car that would be great. If you stick that tractor on the back and start going off road it will break the trailer apart.
With only standard ramps when you go to load up it will mash the rear of the trailer flat down to the ground and pick the back of your truck up in the air, I have seen it happen. With the backhoe on it will weigh over 5K and around 4000lbs are on the rear tires. When they hit the ramps if you don't have kicker legs it's going to the ground.
Again, this is just my opinion but I strongly suggest getting a equipment trailer not a car hauler. For that size tractor I think minimum size to be 16' and no lighter than 5K axles. I have hauled my L3000 all over the place and started out with a 16' with 3500K axles. It did okay with everything but when I had the backhoe mounted. It wasn't safe and it showed every time I hit a bump in the road. My current trailer has a 20' deck with 2' dove tail and is rated to haul 11,500 lbs. Night and day difference, it was money well spent.
If you are willing to upgrade your tow vehicle then do the same for your trailer. Make it easy on yourself and get what you need the first time.
Thanks for that info. What was the cost of the trailer?I just bought a CarMate #10000GVW 18' beavertail for my L3800. I have the LA524 loader and B77 Hoe. Dealer called today to let me know the trailer is in, can't wait to get it so I can move my tractor. Everyone I talked with recommended 18' Min. with most saying to get the 20'. I did fit the tractor on my 14' landscape trailer however it was tight and maxed out for weight. The bucket was rolled up on the front rail with the hoe swung to the side to get the gate closed.
It was $3500+ tax and tags. I could have found a better deal if I had the time to shop around. I needed to complete the transaction for the tractor and trailer before the end of my fiscal year.Thanks for that info. What was the cost of the trailer?
The 18' will give you additional room to adjust your load, if you get the lighter trailer you will wish you got the bigger one later.what do you guys think of this trailer:
http://www.trailersuperstore.com/trailers-for-sale/carry-on-7-x-18-equipment-trailer-slide-out-ramps
If I decide I have to go light (no backhoe) I am looking at this one:
http://www.trailersuperstore.com/trailers-for-sale/carry-on-16-equipment-trailer-hot-deal
Thanks for that recommendation. It makes a lot of sense.You're going to want something with flip up equipment ramps. Since you insist on hauling with a TOYota you'll need those feet at the back of the ramps to keep from sea-sawing the ass end of your truck into the air.
The weight of the tractor climbing onto a trailer will lift and pull on the rear of the truck and having a trailer with the right ramps prevents that from happening.
http://www.trailersuperstore.com/trailers-for-sale/carry-on-7-x-18-equipment-trailer-10000-gvw
Go read some posts of guys that went from F250s and larger trucks to the Tundra for towing 10k+ lbs. One in particular prefers to pull his 11k load with the tundra over his dodge 3500 dually as it gets up to speed faster, has more passing power, and drives better overall.I watched on T/V a toyota truck pulled the space shuttle.
Even after that when I think of pulling a load I still think of Ford or Dodge first.
Eric, I agree with all you said, but have you looked at the newer Tundras? They are a huge truck! Actually larger than I want in a Toyota.If you have to modify a brand new truck with air bags to tow better then there is something wrong right straight out the shoot. Yeah a 15k 5th wheel trailer behind a Tundra in the flat lands of Texas may be ok, but after looking at Google maps it appears as Tsafa lives in the hilly part of Pa and I don't forsee a Toyota working out well in a mountain region.
You can put 4.30 gears and a power house 372hp motor into a VW Bettel it sure as hell doesnt mean it'll pull a grade or be able to stop the load. I've been driving trucks and trailers way to long to know that I want the longest heaviest truck I can possibly have out infront under the load for better controll.