place that sells adapter to put rear attachments in front
- Thread starter lamanated
- Start date
Looking at it briefly it seems like it would break all to shit quick with only 4 bolts holding it in place...
Aircraft engines that produce over 100,000lbs of thrust are often held onto a wing with 3-4 shear bolts.
armylifer
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX1860, FEL, RCK54P MMM, BB1548 Box Scraper, Quick Hitch, Piranha Bar, BX6315
BotaDriver, Thank you for that link. If that 3 point attachment adapter will fit my tractor I will end up buying one of those. I emailed the company asking them if that will work on my tractor. Hopefull they will answer quickly. Thanks again for the link.
We've had one of those adapters from a different manufacturer for several years since they first came onto the market.
It's nice but don't think you're going to be switching it out daily to pick up different 3-point implements.
I've found the best way to hook it up is to place the implement under an A-frame with a chain hoist and use the hoist to jockey the adapter into position. I kid you not it's a bear. Stab the adapter with the loader AFTER hooking up the implement.
You won't get the implement hooked up if the adapter is on the tractor loader. If the ground is not perfectly level it won't match up and you can't move one side of the loader and you can't lift the implement and slide the adapter ear at the same time. I know this from experience.
Those sliding lift arm ears need to be centered or you will unequally load your loader arms. And there is NO give in the sliding part front-to-back, only side-to-side. And when you get a load on either ear the whole mess stops sliding.
Grease the sliding rail real well and get a small sledge hammer and a block of wood to tap the ears into centered location when trying to get a fit onto an implement.
I get mine to fit within 1/2-inch centered and think that's all I'm up for in one session.
Watch out for the top-link too: I think you'll find things don't fit correctly for all / most implements. I wound up making an 'L'-shaped top link to get a fit. Use heavy (1-in) plate and gusset it well to take the load. If you get by without making / cutting a top link you will need a super-short type that will be hard to find. You'd do better having a machine shop make a top-link with a series of holes in it that you can pick any two that fit in a variety of settings to fit any implement----something like 1-in thick, 12-in long, 2.5-in tall, 1-in holes drilled every 2-in. Yours may vary depending how your adapter is built.
Please post back your experiences so we may all learn.
It's nice but don't think you're going to be switching it out daily to pick up different 3-point implements.
I've found the best way to hook it up is to place the implement under an A-frame with a chain hoist and use the hoist to jockey the adapter into position. I kid you not it's a bear. Stab the adapter with the loader AFTER hooking up the implement.
You won't get the implement hooked up if the adapter is on the tractor loader. If the ground is not perfectly level it won't match up and you can't move one side of the loader and you can't lift the implement and slide the adapter ear at the same time. I know this from experience.
Those sliding lift arm ears need to be centered or you will unequally load your loader arms. And there is NO give in the sliding part front-to-back, only side-to-side. And when you get a load on either ear the whole mess stops sliding.
Grease the sliding rail real well and get a small sledge hammer and a block of wood to tap the ears into centered location when trying to get a fit onto an implement.
I get mine to fit within 1/2-inch centered and think that's all I'm up for in one session.
Watch out for the top-link too: I think you'll find things don't fit correctly for all / most implements. I wound up making an 'L'-shaped top link to get a fit. Use heavy (1-in) plate and gusset it well to take the load. If you get by without making / cutting a top link you will need a super-short type that will be hard to find. You'd do better having a machine shop make a top-link with a series of holes in it that you can pick any two that fit in a variety of settings to fit any implement----something like 1-in thick, 12-in long, 2.5-in tall, 1-in holes drilled every 2-in. Yours may vary depending how your adapter is built.
Please post back your experiences so we may all learn.
armylifer
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX1860, FEL, RCK54P MMM, BB1548 Box Scraper, Quick Hitch, Piranha Bar, BX6315
After reading your post I am not so sure that would want to get this one then.
What I was thinking about is if I could use my box blade from the front then it might be easier than always looking to the rear. I also was thinking about moving my trailers by using the front hydrolics.
I am going to have to re-think which adapter I should buy. I am sure that there are some out there that will do what I want without any alignment hassels.
Anyway, thank you Stubbyie. I appreciate the feedback.
I hope I didn't present too dismal a picture of a front-mount 3-point adapter.
We're pleased with ours and it works like it's supposed too...
But...
It's not "handy" in the sense of changing implements twice a day. Plan on about an hour per change---sort of like changing loader buckets before quik-tach became widely available. And the adapter may take two people if you don't have an overhead lift point to jiggle it one side at the time. Honestly, I can't mount the adapter to an implement if the adapter is already on the tractor---just ain't happening.
We've got--at the moment--a 'rear' mount angle blade that can also offset and swivel set up on the adapter. It's sweet for cleaning ditches. I can back slowly down the blacktop and have the blade angled in the ditch and see what's happening.
Cautionary note: 3-point implements are designed to be "pulled", not "pushed". Watch for unusual stresses, strains, and bending and stay safe in all you do.
This blade will stay on the adapter until we need something else. A popular use for the adapter is a 3-point boom-pole: on the loader we can get 20-ft up. Handy for reaching up and over to pick something up. About 500-lbs at the tip is our self-imposed limit.
Adapters have gotten relatively economical. Try one and see if you like it. Doing so may be cheaper than buying a dedicated loader-mount type implement if you already have something on hand. I know one guy that has two adapters and just leaves them mounted on specific implements all the time and still came out ahead compared to buying new quik-tach iron.
Please post back with your experiences so we may all learn.
We're pleased with ours and it works like it's supposed too...
But...
It's not "handy" in the sense of changing implements twice a day. Plan on about an hour per change---sort of like changing loader buckets before quik-tach became widely available. And the adapter may take two people if you don't have an overhead lift point to jiggle it one side at the time. Honestly, I can't mount the adapter to an implement if the adapter is already on the tractor---just ain't happening.
We've got--at the moment--a 'rear' mount angle blade that can also offset and swivel set up on the adapter. It's sweet for cleaning ditches. I can back slowly down the blacktop and have the blade angled in the ditch and see what's happening.
Cautionary note: 3-point implements are designed to be "pulled", not "pushed". Watch for unusual stresses, strains, and bending and stay safe in all you do.
This blade will stay on the adapter until we need something else. A popular use for the adapter is a 3-point boom-pole: on the loader we can get 20-ft up. Handy for reaching up and over to pick something up. About 500-lbs at the tip is our self-imposed limit.
Adapters have gotten relatively economical. Try one and see if you like it. Doing so may be cheaper than buying a dedicated loader-mount type implement if you already have something on hand. I know one guy that has two adapters and just leaves them mounted on specific implements all the time and still came out ahead compared to buying new quik-tach iron.
Please post back with your experiences so we may all learn.
armylifer
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX1860, FEL, RCK54P MMM, BB1548 Box Scraper, Quick Hitch, Piranha Bar, BX6315
I contacted the company and after trading emails back and forth I decided that I really don't want this type. The company was honest and did not try to push a sale. They gave me the information that I asked for and I made an informed decision.
I thank you for relating your experiences and that also helped me make my decision.
I am considering buying one of the blank plates and welding a HF quick hitch to it. It would making moving attachments around much easier, especially making a shelf setup to increase covered storage area.
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
those are on the market as well. we have one, we use for the landscape rake on the bobcat. works well, as with all QH's you have to have your implements all the same dimensions.
http://www.hayspear.com/c=kmiz9L9fXD3Wk8I9rsisivUqw/category/hayspear.hayspearbobcat-three_point/
Hate to scare you on aircraft, but the driveshaft keeping the helicopters I look after up there are 4 an4 quarter inch ones. and there is one hose clamp on the inlet fuel filter
Wildfire
Active member
Equipment
Kubota L5740 HSTC3 and a Kubota ZG222Z, 2013 BX25D,Custom Toyota fork lift.
Well guys I know lamanated and if he tells me something is good I'm not going to question it. Never
Great to see you on here my friend