I own a 12 y/o Kubota L3000D tractor and one day it just wouldn't start. None of my gauges work, when you crank it nothing happens and it does not appear to be charging the battery. I replaced the ignition switch and that didn't fix it, all my fuses are intact. The only lights that work are the flashers. It can be "hotwired" to start but i can't seem to run down the cause of the problem. Any ideas? Any help would be appreciated.
Tractor won't start
- Thread starter rsharum
- Start date
There should be a large master fuse in the area of the starter. If it goes most everything else goes. I think it is a 30 amp fuse. It could be just corroded so taking it out, checking it, and reinstalling may do the trick.
It is not in the usual fuse bank area.
The other possibility is that some "safety" switch is activated or has shorted out. However, usually that just prevents a start but everything else works.
It is not in the usual fuse bank area.
The other possibility is that some "safety" switch is activated or has shorted out. However, usually that just prevents a start but everything else works.
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We removed all the cover plates and got into the wiring, ran down all the wires and checked for continuity and couldn't find any breaks are burnt areas. The battery is reading about 11.7v and we were able to get it started with the ignition switch while being jumped but after that we were unable to repeat that. Now all we get is a clicking sound and can't get it to start at all, even with jumper cables. I keep hearing about safety switches, but would safety switches keep the lights and gauges from working? Where would they be on a kubota L3000? Anyone have any ideas how to solve this? Any hekp would be much appreciated.
Low battery voltage (you report 11.7-vdc) and clicking sound when trying to start together indicate bad battery. If battery is failed internally it would not be unusual to be difficult to start even with jumper cables---especially if using lightweight cables.
Rob a known good battery off another vehicle to install into tractor and prove status. When running you can measure the voltage across the battery terminals and if charging should see ~13.8-vdc.
As part of this process confirm both battery cables are in good condition with no corrosion, splits, kinks, broken wire strands, discoloration. Also confirm connections to starter [solenoid] and especially chassis ground are shiny bright clean and reinstalled with anti-oxidant gel.
On replacement battery make thick putty-paste of baking soda and water and pack around terminals. Wash off annually and repeat.
Rob a known good battery off another vehicle to install into tractor and prove status. When running you can measure the voltage across the battery terminals and if charging should see ~13.8-vdc.
As part of this process confirm both battery cables are in good condition with no corrosion, splits, kinks, broken wire strands, discoloration. Also confirm connections to starter [solenoid] and especially chassis ground are shiny bright clean and reinstalled with anti-oxidant gel.
On replacement battery make thick putty-paste of baking soda and water and pack around terminals. Wash off annually and repeat.
Stubbyie has some great ideas. I'll pile on.
>11.7 volts is a dead battery. It might be bad enough to not close relays, etc. to run or light anything. A jumper cable to an open circuit battery usually fails to supply enough amps to start the vehicle.
>Just measure the battery dimensions and go to Costco, WalMart, Sam's Club and get a battery of the same physical size. Check the posts to make sure they are in the correct position. Lots of CCA are nice but not that necessary for a tractor that size. Plus, they cost more.
>Get a longer battery ground cable and ground the battery to a bolt on the engine block.
Bet a new battery solves the problem.
EDIT: One more test but it has to be done with care. Instead of attaching the jumper cables to the battery, disconnect the battery ground. Then attach the positive jumper to the positive battery cable and the ground jumper to the engine block. That should bypass the battery and the tractor should start.
If it still won't start then touch the positive jumper to the positive post on the starter. There will be sparks but the engine should crank (the ignition switch and battery are bypassed).
>11.7 volts is a dead battery. It might be bad enough to not close relays, etc. to run or light anything. A jumper cable to an open circuit battery usually fails to supply enough amps to start the vehicle.
>Just measure the battery dimensions and go to Costco, WalMart, Sam's Club and get a battery of the same physical size. Check the posts to make sure they are in the correct position. Lots of CCA are nice but not that necessary for a tractor that size. Plus, they cost more.
>Get a longer battery ground cable and ground the battery to a bolt on the engine block.
Bet a new battery solves the problem.
EDIT: One more test but it has to be done with care. Instead of attaching the jumper cables to the battery, disconnect the battery ground. Then attach the positive jumper to the positive battery cable and the ground jumper to the engine block. That should bypass the battery and the tractor should start.
If it still won't start then touch the positive jumper to the positive post on the starter. There will be sparks but the engine should crank (the ignition switch and battery are bypassed).
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"It can be "hotwired" to start but i can't seem to run down the cause of the problem. Any ideas? Any help would be appreciated."
" The battery is reading about 11.7v and we were able to get it started with the ignition switch while being jumped but after that we were unable to repeat that."
I agree with GWD and Stubbyie.
It is possible that you have multiple issues.
" The battery is reading about 11.7v and we were able to get it started with the ignition switch while being jumped but after that we were unable to repeat that."
I agree with GWD and Stubbyie.
It is possible that you have multiple issues.
When you "hotwired" did you do it from the tractor battery or a different one?
Agree that 11.7v is a week/bad battery.
Agree, rob another battery from a vehicle, that you know starts, that is of appropriate size to start the tractor and put in the tractor and try to start it. If it starts, problem solved. Get new battery for tractor.
If it does not start, try to "hotwire" to the pos side of the starter with the key in the on position. If it starts, shut the tractor off, turn the key to the on position and try to the key side of the solenoid. If it does not start you have a bad starter solenoid.
If this does not work I am not familiar enough with your tractor wiring to be of further help.
Agree that 11.7v is a week/bad battery.
Agree, rob another battery from a vehicle, that you know starts, that is of appropriate size to start the tractor and put in the tractor and try to start it. If it starts, problem solved. Get new battery for tractor.
If it does not start, try to "hotwire" to the pos side of the starter with the key in the on position. If it starts, shut the tractor off, turn the key to the on position and try to the key side of the solenoid. If it does not start you have a bad starter solenoid.
If this does not work I am not familiar enough with your tractor wiring to be of further help.
We pulled the starter and it seems that the bushings may be bad, it will not turn freely and when energized it activates but does not turn at all. I do believe that I have multiple issue with the tractor, I still haven't solved the lighting and control panel issues but will trace the wiring down to eliminate shorts etc. Found a place in town to rebuild my starter for about $100 and I may need a new flasher relay. Thanks for your help.
Anyone know if the starter is also generator on this year/model. Could explain the multiple issue situation...
North Idaho Wolfman
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I know exactly what your talking about, my 1970's simplicity uses that method, I don't think Kubota ever made any models like that.
Just wanted to update re my problem. I've had both the starter and alternator looked at by pros and they tested both and found no problems. The battery is still not being charged by the alternator when we checked with VO meter with engine running, voltage = 12.66v before and after engine running. I've tightened the belt on alternator pulley checked all the fuses and still have no lights with the exception of the flashers. The engine will start readily but each time after my voltage measured lower in the off position. Am considering some kind of short causing a parisitic drain on the battery but we've kind of exhausted our solutions to the problem. Again this is a 12 y/o kubota L3000dt, anybody got any ideas?
There's a fuseable link located in the area of the starter not sure how much on your tractor it controls but its worth checking. Did you pull the alternator off and have it tested?
Is there current to the alt?
You may want to get a wirng diagram. Nobody has mentioned checking the voltage regulator, I would assume your tractor has one that is esperate from the alt.
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Is there current to the alt?
You may want to get a wirng diagram. Nobody has mentioned checking the voltage regulator, I would assume your tractor has one that is esperate from the alt.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
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Found the problem, bad ignition switch. Jumped the red wire to the red/ black wire and got 13.8v across the battery terminals with motor running. Also, all the lights and gauges worked so i ordered one online as my Kubota dealer didn't have it in stock. Once the new switch arrives I'll install and let ya'll know how that works out. Thanks for your support.
North Idaho Wolfman
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12.6 Volts, but voltage is only half the puzzle, amperage is more important, to measure that you need it load tested.
You can have a 12.6 or better volt battery and low or no amps and it's worthless, happens when batteries have broken connections internally.