Help removing L225 Final Drive

[kbeatty-L225]

My L225 developed a hydraulic fluid leak around the rear axle cover. It was also making terrible noises I believe are damaged bearings near the same spot.

I am in process of removing the final drive but have run into a major snag. I can not get anything further loose! I have removed the brakes and brake backing plate, tire, fender, and lift arms. I also drained the remaining hydraulic fluid.

I am stuck because I can not see how to remove the Bull pinion. Also the case will not loosen from the tractor housing even though I have removed all the bolts.

So, what is the trick to removing the Bull pinion, oil seal, and bearing? Is there some reason the case would be held tight to the tractor housing? Is it because the bull pinion is still intact? Or do I not need to mess with removing it?

If I can get the unit loose from the tractor I intend to take the entire assembly to my Kubota dealer so they can replace the seals and bearings. I do not have the ability to take the entire tractor, hence the teardown.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Bluegill]

If I'm reading you right, You don't need to tear it down that far. Much easier the just take the outer cover off the final drive. That will get you access to the final drive gears, axle, bearings and seal. I did this on a L245 years ago and I believe yours is similar.

 

[lsmurphy]

My L225 developed a hydraulic fluid leak around the rear axle cover. It was also making terrible noises I believe are damaged bearings near the same spot.

I am in process of removing the final drive but have run into a major snag. I can not get anything further loose! I have removed the brakes and brake backing plate, tire, fender, and lift arms. I also drained the remaining hydraulic fluid.

I am stuck because I can not see how to remove the Bull pinion. Also the case will not loosen from the tractor housing even though I have removed all the bolts.

So, what is the trick to removing the Bull pinion, oil seal, and bearing? Is there some reason the case would be held tight to the tractor housing? Is it because the bull pinion is still intact? Or do I not need to mess with removing it?

If I can get the unit loose from the tractor I intend to take the entire assembly to my Kubota dealer so they can replace the seals and bearings. I do not have the ability to take the entire tractor, hence the teardown.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

The axle housing itself will not come lose from the transmission housing?

Is that your problem? and you believe that something inside is keeping you from removing the axle housing?



If so.......

Use a stiff putty knife as a wedge to get the two housings to separate, sealant cam be tough at times.

I will TAP, not beat, the handle of the putty knife with a hammer. You may have to try a few different locations around the housing to get it to separate.

 

[kbeatty-L225]

The axle housing itself will not come lose from the transmission housing?

Is that your problem? and you believe that something inside is keeping you from removing the axle housing?



If so.......

Use a stiff putty knife as a wedge to get the two housings to separate, sealant cam be tough at times.

I will TAP, not beat, the handle of the putty knife with a hammer. You may have to try a few different locations around the housing to get it to separate.

That is exactly the problem. I was needing to know if the bull pinion has to be removed in order to separate the axle housing from the transmission because they feel like a single piece currently (even though they are clearly 2 pieces).

I will try the putty knife trick and let you know how I do.

 

[kbeatty-L225]

The putty knife idea was perfect and worked pretty quickly, thank you lsmurphy!

I now have a gap between the axle housing and transmission but the axle remains connected somehow. I can wobble the housing but something is still holding on. I am not sure if I should remove the brake Bull Pinion or man-up and pull harder on the axle housing.

My manual suggests removing the bull pinion but it is a very crappy manual and not specific about much! The oil seal around the bull pinion looks like it is all rubber with no metal jacket. How is it removed?

 

[kbeatty-L225]

If I'm reading you right, You don't need to tear it down that far. Much easier the just take the outer cover off the final drive. That will get you access to the final drive gears, axle, bearings and seal. I did this on a L245 years ago and I believe yours is similar.

That would be nice and I do not see the cover you refer to. Can you be more specific, please. Thank you for your help!

 

[Bluegill]

That would be nice and I do not see the cover you refer to. Can you be more specific, please. Thank you for your help!

I'm assuming the L225 is like the L245, but I could be wrong. Pictures of yours would be very helpful here.

 

[kbeatty-L225]

I'm assuming the L225 is like the L245, but I could be wrong. Pictures of yours would be very helpful here.

Here are some photos. I was able to separate the pieces with gentle persuasion (hammer). Sadly I found some large metals pieces laying on the bottom of the transmission side of the case that appear to be what is left of the bearings . You can also see in the photos that the bearings are gone from the transmission end of the axle.

 

[Bluegill]

OK I see know. That is different than my old L245, where the finial drive was out near the wheel.

New bearing / seal and you should be good to go.

 

[kbeatty-L225]

Now that I have the final drive removed from the tractor, can I replace the bearings and oil seals myself or does it require a press and is better left to a professional?

If I can replace them myself are these parts I can order from the folks who host this web forum? Ordering from them is the least I can do in return for their great web landing.

 

[lsmurphy]

Now that I have the final drive removed from the tractor, can I replace the bearings and oil seals myself or does it require a press and is better left to a professional?

If I can replace them myself are these parts I can order from the folks who host this web forum? Ordering from them is the least I can do in return for their great web landing.

You've come this far you should be able to take it the rest of the way.


As you disassemble pay attention to how it comes apart, maybe take photos along the way.

You may need to invest in brass punches to remove bearings or look to PVC pipe or other makeshift tools to set races or what have you.

You'll get it..........and save a bunch of money.

If you need to have bearing pressed............go to a good machine shop and pay the $10 or $15 to press a bearing, if you do not have a press of your own. And not the $80 per hour your Kubota dealer may charge.

 

[kbeatty-L225]

You've come this far you should be able to take it the rest of the way.

With your recommendation in mind, I tore her down.

The photos show the axle, the bearing that blew up and caused all of this, and the hydraulic filter screen. It is currently soaking in diesel fuel. Hopefully it will be OK, if not I will get one when I buy my oil seals, bearings, and gaskets. That should be early next week some time.

I will post the completed project and parts cost.

Thank you, everybody, for your input and guidance.

 

[ipz2222]

Carburator cleaner works great for cleaning those gummed up screens. WallMart and parts stores have it. Don't let it get it on your hands, won't seriously damage you but really dries out the skin and if you have a cut it BURNS.

 

[kbeatty-L225]

Carburator cleaner works great for cleaning those gummed up screens. WallMart and parts stores have it. Don't let it get it on your hands, won't seriously damage you but really dries out the skin and if you have a cut it BURNS.

Thanks. I will have to give that a try becuase the diesel fuel is not doing anything to help the matter!

 

[kbeatty-L225]

After waiting more than 2 weeks for parts and my dealer getting the wrong part twice, I finally began the reassembly of the final drive. After everything was together and ready to be reattached to the tractor I placed the gasket in the prpoper spot on the final drive and began lifting the final drive into position. The gasket touched the stud coming off the transmission and the new gasket broke like a stale pretzel.

I have never seen a gasket break that way. I have a feeling it was produced the same day as my tractor and sat on a shelf for 40 years.

My question is; Do I have to wait another 2 weeks for a replacement or can I use permatex and make my own gasket or repair the gasket where it is broken? Will permatex withstand the pressure? I am really quite unhappy right now.

 

[lsmurphy]

I make my own. A roll of gasket material may cost you about $8 or so but will last you a long time.

I use Ultra Black, Permatex, cost about $8 per tube but in my opinion is the best available.

Use a thin film on both sides of gasket. Install and only snug tight all bolts, wait one hour, then torque.

Won't leak, guaranteed.




BTW.......If it's a common gasket and cost pennies..........I buy it.

 

[hodge]

I make my own. A roll of gasket material may cost you about $8 or so but will last you a long time.

I use Ultra Black, Permatex, cost about $8 per tube but in my opinion is the best available.

Use a thin film on both sides of gasket. Install and only snug tight all bolts, wait one hour, then torque.

Won't leak, guaranteed.




BTW.......If it's a common gasket and cost pennies..........I buy it.

I've made my own gaskets many times, too. It is much easier to take a roll of gasket material off the shelf and do some tracing than it is to run into town (I live way out), then wait for them to come in.

 

[kbeatty-L225]

I use Ultra Black, Permatex, cost about $8 per tube but in my opinion is the best available.

I will go buy some of your recommended Ultra Black tomorrow and use the broken gasket. There are no missing pieces, it just snapped! That is what I understood you to be saying. If I am wrong please smack me along the side of the head and repeat yourself

If I don't get told differently I will assemble tomorrow and I will let you know how it goes.

 

[kbeatty-L225]

I followed instructions..bought the Ultra Black permatex, assembled semi-tight, torqued to full tight a little over an hour later. Tractor is now fully reassembled aside from hanging the tire and filling the hydraullic fluid.

After I give the permatex the recommended 24 hours to cure I will finish and expect excellent results.

The entire job, including 2 bearings, 1 oil seal, 4 gaskets, hydraulic screen filter, ultra black permatex, and hydrauilic fluid cost slightly less than $200. I imagine that is a huge savings from what the Kubota dealer would have charged me. Their rate is $85 / hour.

I will give a final update to this thread after I test the 3ph and see if this project fixed the weak 3ph problem I have had for a while now. I think it may because the filter looked like a magnet that picked up all the crushed bearings from the destroyed bearing that was supposed to be where the axle meets the transmission. (Yes, I know the screen filter is not magnetic! )

 

[Bluegill]

Sounds like ya have it fixed. Good job!