G1800-S brake and misc

[nepotomus]

Hi folks, first post noob here.

Very nice forums, I've already benefitted by following some very good guidance.

I stumbled onto a 3 cyl diesel with 500 hrs from the original owner. It has the 54" deck and the awesome blower bagger. Picked it up for 2k with some spare parts and all manuals including oem workshop. I just went through the whole rig, every grease point, all fluids and filters. Old fluids looked beautiful, but I flushed everything even coolant. New tires, went one size wider at 9.5s and love them. Not sure why they went to narrow 8.5" as stock, plenty of clearance one size up and appears 10.5s could even fit. New front wheel bearings, adjusted all levers to smooth. Everything went well and works and impressed with my first orange tractor. I completed all checks in the manual and everything easy to understand.

TLDR - ***brakes*** anybody remove the brake pedal? I greased that fitting, but notice a ton of play/wear. Wondering if someone can confirm there is no bushing? I don't see one in the online parts catalog. I'd be surprised if Kubota went steel on steel with nothing serviceable.

***Shut down*** my machine doesn't always stop by the key, so I have to pull this lever thingy. Occasionally it will shut down. Any ideas or first things to check?

***Date?*** I have SN 121xx something or rather, anybody close know their machine mfg date? The air filter might have a date code of "Oct 94", not positive. Curious how old my rig is

Between the four wheel steer and the extreme build quality, I'm just enamored by this machine. Planning for drive shaft rebuild and new enamel for the spring. Already secured a couple critical used spares, and not many needed on this mini-beast.

Also have:
Massey Ferguson GC TLB 2018 ~200 hrs
John Deere X380 2021 ~ 120 hrs (this one, gonna dump it I think)

 

[number two]

Nice!
I'd buy it also.
Good Luck with it!

 

[Bee-Positive]

Welcome aboard nepotomus

The G1800 was built between 1989 and 2000, so 1994 is a possibility.

The brake pedal is metal-to-metal and lubricated with the zerk you referenced. Check the springs, maybe they need to be replaced.

 

[Bee-Positive]

P.S. You may be able to adjust the brake rod # 40 to take up some slack.

 

[nepotomus]

Welcome aboard nepotomus

The G1800 was built between 1989 and 2000, so 1994 is a possibility.

The brake pedal is metal-to-metal and lubricated with the zerk you referenced. Check the springs, maybe they need to be replaced.


View attachment 180502 View attachment 180503

*** Nuts. That's what I thought. My pedal rocks smoothly front to back, but it also rocks left or right more than 5 degrees when you push it. So I'll have to cross my fingers that the wear is in the exterior pedal journal itself and not the stub shaft. Used brake pedals are available, luckily

 

[Bee-Positive]

***Shut down*** my machine doesn't always stop by the key, so I have to pull this lever thingy. Occasionally it will shut down. Any ideas or first things to check?

The lever thingy is a fuel shut off solenoid, read this post for a description on how it works.

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/function-of-stop-solenoid.52737/

When the fuel shut off solenoid doesn't close the rack it will not stop running. The shut off solenoid momentarily stops the fuel using a time delay relay built into the Combination Box, then releases, and allows fuel to the rack, for the next time you crank the engine.

Check to see if your fuses and the wire connections are good. This tractor is about 20 years old and the electrical contacts in connectors can get corroded. Closely examine every connector, one may simply be oxidized. If the key switch is bad or has a bad connector on one of the wires it will never apply 12volts so when it is shut off the timer circuit will not start.

IF your key switch is working properly it could be a bad fuel shut off solenoid or a bad relay in the Combination Box. Trace voltages from the key switch to the box to the shutoff solenoid before throwing parts at it. The combination Box is very pricey.

 

[nepotomus]

The lever thingy is a fuel shut off solenoid, read this post for a description on how it works.

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/function-of-stop-solenoid.52737/

When the fuel shut off solenoid doesn't close the rack it will not stop running. The shut off solenoid momentarily stops the fuel using a time delay relay built into the Combination Box, then releases, and allows fuel to the rack, for the next time you crank the engine.

Check to see if your fuses and the wire connections are good. This tractor is about 20 years old and the electrical contacts in connectors can get corroded. Closely examine every connector, one may simply be oxidized. If the key switch is bad or has a bad connector on one of the wires it will never apply 12volts so when it is shut off the timer circuit will not start.

IF your key switch is working properly it could be a bad fuel shut off solenoid or a bad relay in the Combination Box. Trace voltages from the key switch to the box to the shutoff solenoid before throwing parts at it. The combination Box is very pricey.

That's great detail B-Pos, I will check connections, I know what to look for.

As an update, went to start today and did not fire at first touch of the key as it usually does. Went all the way through jumping and nothing would just crank. Grabbed manual, read a bit, tried again and it fired. Scratched my head and finished bagging the whole acre. When I went to stop I first opened the hood, and watched the solenoid not extend, so I pulled the lever. See first pic, my unit has like a choke pull on the side of the dash that does the same action as the solenoid. What I noticed is the pull action on that pull lever was sticking pulled open, and that is what held me up from starting. So tonight after I shut it down with the pull, I started it again and watched the solenoid actually work from the key the very next shutdown. Second picture shows the pull wire all the way to the lever where the solenoid works. So I don't think I need to get my meter out just yet. I'll address the 32 year old linkage, lube and check adjustment. Will report back