Advice and pricing for newbie wanted.

[Bonanza 2026]

I will be a first time tractor buyer. I have a JD, Kubota, and Bobcat dealer within 10 miles of me and have done as much internet research as I can and have looked at the offerings of the above.

I have 12 acres of mostly forest, with a gravel drive and some trails. I plan to use the tractor for maintaining the driveway and loading spreading gravel, mulch, dirt, etc. I don't think I need a belly mower as I have little grass and already have a lawn tractor.

I like the idea of a grapple but with the 3rd function hydraulics and the implement it's $4000. Not sure I want it that bad.

I think I will purchase a land plane for the driveway.

I think I like the B2601 best. Configured from the website with a swift attach loader, 54" QA bucket, R14 tires, 2 lever quick coupler L435 it is coming in at $25,628 before taxes and any other BS fees. The B2301 configured the same way is $24,485. So really only a $1200 price difference between a B2601 and B2301

Questions.
Are there things I should be buying or thinking of that I have not?
Are there deals, sales, or better times to buy?
Can I expect some kind of discount from the dealer or is MSRP what to expect?
Are there quality of life things to buy like a 3 point quick attach for the rear, a step (as the 2601 does not have one), trickle charger, .... ?

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

Given what you have said a grapple is likely in your future. It can be bought later though.
To run the grapple you will need a front remote. i've always had really good luck having my dealers include those at no cost. If I bring it up just before I finalize the deal. Get them to throw it in at no charge. Cost them almost nothing to include it, but a big saving for you.

 

[EPIC]

Also check numerous dealers, even if they are all part of the same company, you can sometimes save a substantial amount of $ and still get free delivery.

in addition check online to see if you can add third function kits that you can add yourself this saves shop labor, assuming you are mechanically inclined.

 

[Russell King]

Since you are in a forested area, do you use a lot of firewood? If so then you will probably want to get a grapple to help move logs around the property and to hold them up to saw into splitting length. You might also want to get something to pull the logs out of the forest if you have ravines.

Buying more and financing it along with the tractor is probably better than waiting and buying the implements you “must have” after the tractor purchase. Kubota offers zero percent financing most of the time and I think implements are included in that offer with a tractor purchase (Kubota may have stopped that so check with the dealer). If you finance it then you will have to insure it and there is KTAC insurance that is supposed to cover “everything” on the tractor even your negligence on damaging it. If you buy now you can use now, if you wait to buy you could possibly rent the equipment you think you might need.

I would get at least two rear hydraulic remotes installed (or purchase and install yourself) for future top and tilt cylinder use at the three point hitch. They will make driveway maintenance easier (not sure a land plane benefits from them though so ask).

 

[SDT]

I will be a first time tractor buyer. I have a JD, Kubota, and Bobcat dealer within 10 miles of me and have done as much internet research as I can and have looked at the offerings of the above.

I have 12 acres of mostly forest, with a gravel drive and some trails. I plan to use the tractor for maintaining the driveway and loading spreading gravel, mulch, dirt, etc. I don't think I need a belly mower as I have little grass and already have a lawn tractor.

I like the idea of a grapple but with the 3rd function hydraulics and the implement it's $4000. Not sure I want it that bad.

I think I will purchase a land plane for the driveway.

I think I like the B2601 best. Configured from the website with a swift attach loader, 54" QA bucket, R14 tires, 2 lever quick coupler L435 it is coming in at $25,628 before taxes and any other BS fees. The B2301 configured the same way is $24,485. So really only a $1200 price difference between a B2601 and B2301

Questions.
Are there things I should be buying or thinking of that I have not?
Are there deals, sales, or better times to buy?
Can I expect some kind of discount from the dealer or is MSRP what to expect?
Are there quality of life things to buy like a 3 point quick attach for the rear, a step (as the 2601 does not have one), trickle charger, .... ?

Verify that the B2601 has position control (I cannot remember).

BX series tractors do not but most (all?) B series tractors do.

Lack of position control is a show stopper for me. You do not want a BX type quarter inching valve.

 

[Bearcatrp]

Pay attention to flow rate when using implements. Some implements need higher volume. Make sure the B you’re looking at has acceptable flow rate. Lift capacity is important too. Use the Kubota web site compare function. Helped me decide when I upgrade from my BX, I’ll get the LX2620. Good luck on your decision.

 

[GrumpyFarmer]

Depending on what planning to do with the place, I find forks the most versatile implement on the front end…i use forks more than bucket or grapple.

Also if playing in the woods, I’d think about brush/grill guard and maybe chin guard. If not getting MMM, depending on your use consider the underside vulnerabilities and how you plan to use if need armor. (When you roll over a small branch or stick it will flip up towards your bits.)

personally if not need a MMM, a rear cutter is much easier to install/remove and service IMO.

I think a lot really depends on your goals and uses. Good luck.

 

[JasonW]

Would you consider buying used? It’s area dependent but around me there are always “like new” Kubotas for sale with low hours.

Best time to buy was probably 15-20 years ago, it’s crazy how much these have increased in price. With everything else too I suppose.

For around the same price range you should be able to move up to a L series, L2501 etc. more clearance and more loader lift capacity. And more stability.

 

[PaulL]

B2601 is a gerat tractor. I have one. It has position control.

I wish I'd got a land plane instead of a box blade. I need a box blade for some tasks, but it really doesn't do the driveway as well as I'd like. I'll probably borrow a land plane and if it works, buy it.l

The main use I have for rear outlets on my B2601 is log splitter. People say it doesn't have enough flow to run a log splitter, but it's running my small chinesium one just fine. Sure beats using an axe. Not a lot cheaper than a standalone log splitter with a gas engine though.

Weight box for counter balance? I don't see a lot of heavy rear implements in your plan, and you're talking about loader tasks.

You could go a bit bigger. Nothing you describe needs it, but an LX would give more pull. An L is a lot of tractor for your money, and your uses would reward an L2502 - particularly that land plane.

I've never had a 3pt quick attach. On a B sized machine you can horse most of the implements around if you need to. On my MX they're too heavy, but my MX has extending arms which work well enough. You didn't really list many 3pt implements other than the land plane, not sure I'd get a quick hitch just for a land plane.

I have forks. No real point in a front SSQA unless you have two implements!! I suspect your use really does warrant a grapple, and it'd be cheaper/easier up front. I feel like a B2601 is a bit small for a good grapple though - again an LX or L would give more heft.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Depending on what planning to do with the place, I find forks the most versatile implement on the front end…i use forks more than bucket or grapple.

+1,000 on this.

Get forks….(and a grapple) Forks are relatively cheap.

They are "far and away” the most useful front implement I have (and I have a grapple and bucket as well )

If someone put a gun to my head and said “Choose ONLY ONE front implement!” I would pick my forks.

 

[Bearcatrp]

Just to add about the forks. Don't get skid steer forks. To heavy. There are forks out there that are lighter and will lift you max capacity. Red line systems is one of them. There are others.

 

[skeets]

All the info you got is good, I will however caution you about the 2601. Don't get me wrong it is a good little tractor but things you better look at.

#1 Hills while it is stable for the most part, I put 2 inch wheel spacers on my, really could have gone with 4 inch for the hills I have here.

#2 I dont know how large you are, but the kitchen is rather cramped if you are a stout fellow or crippled up a bit. The seat does not go back far enough, at least for me. And the location of the FEL controls are very easy to bump with your right leg/knee.

#3 And for tires stay away from the R4s they put on it, the tires are useless because they are skidsteer tired not tractor tires, I dont know who thought that was a good idea but he should be horse whipped. They are not much use on any thing slick , mud, grass stuff like that.

#4 Grapple use, my beasty will lift the assend off the ground trying to lift stuff, even with filled rear tires, you have to remember it is a small tractor not a 988, and act accordingly. So remember a huge hunk of concrete as a counter weight is your friend

#5 I bought a bill of goods, it was ordered and delivered, I do not have buyers remorse, but were I to do it again I would have gone up to the next level. Get one to the house for a week end run the snot out of it, and get a feel for it, might save you a lot of second guessing later.

I am not trying to dissuade you from the 2601 it is built as a nitch tractor a thing between the BX and the LX, just bringing some of the short falls as I see it. What ever you decide I wish you well, just do your home work go sit on it see if they will bring one out for you to play with and, dont be blinded by the pretty new bright orange paint we all love.

 

[trikepilot]

I have the B2620 and manage 56acres in VA with hills, large fields, dense woods, and a LONG gravel driveway. It has been great for what I ask of it. That said... I could see myself liking a bit "bigger" of a machine and by that, I mean, more capacity rather than sheer size. Still... it manages very well if I am responsible in what I ask of it.

We have several equipment rentals around us that rent out B and L series tractors. I would try each out for a long weekend and see what you think. That would be money well spent before a longterm committment.

I agree 100% on the forks as noted by others. I do not have a grapple, yet...

I bought mine used with 200ish hours (barely broken in) from a fairly close Kubota dealer with a reasonably long warranty on it. I have had zero issues. There are plenty of good condition pre-owned B and L series tractors out there if you are patient.

I agree 100% on front and rear remotes. Better to get it now if you buy new than add it later. At a bare minimum, I would have front and rear remote and add a 2nd rear if T&T is important.

I have bought 6 attachments by being very patient and consistently watching FBMP and CL. If you see a good deal, snatch it up. You can save BIG with this method!

I disagree on the R4s. My machine does great but I did groove my tires. I also put 1.5in spacers on the rears.

 

[GeoHorn]

Also check numerous dealers, even if they are all part of the same company, you can sometimes save a substantial amount of $ and still get free delivery.

in addition check online to see if you can add third function kits that you can add yourself this saves shop labor, assuming you are mechanically inclined.

I once mortgaged a brand-new house just as it was being completed…and to “save money”….. I told the builder NOT to put turf down…. that I would do that myself.

Stupid. Really Really Stupid.

It took many months of finding, buying, transporting…and then hard dirty work laying it out on the unimproved yard/lot…. then watering, feeding, replacing the dead squares…. it looked like crap for the next two years…. and I saved NOTHING after the transporting, installing, etc etc.

If I’d had the builder do this…it would have added about $10 per month to my mortgage and I’d be DONE with it…and it would have been properly installed and looked good from the START.

DO NOT THINK you will be saving money or trouble by adding hydraulics using after-market. You won’t
The DEALER will likely Throw It Into the Deal…. Just to MAKE the Deal…. All you likely have to do is ASK!

 

[trikepilot]

DO NOT THINK you will be saving money or trouble by adding hydraulics using after-market. You won’t
The DEALER will likely Throw It Into the Deal…. Just to MAKE the Deal…. All you likely have to do is ASK!

I disagree. I saved significant funds (about 50%) putting my front/rear hydraulics in myself AND I got exactly what I wanted rather than settling with whatever the prefab aftermarket kit offered.

If you have the inclination and the basic mechanical skills, it is not hard to do. I think people get unnecessarily intimidated and are willing to settle for poor aftermarket kits or dealer gouging.

YMMV