B7800 Spring/locknuts missing from feedback bar. Replaced and Lever still floppy, bar does not reach spring

Russell King

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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
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Thank you


Thanks so much for guiding me on where to look next. I hopefully understand the pin situation, what is the red circled area representing?
I originally thought that the red circle was a broken bolt so I circled it. Then I looked at the parts diagram and saw there was NOT a bolt there, but it appears to be just some sort of nub sticking up. Sorry for confusing you, I meant to say ignore that.

If you look at the picture in post #11, that is a similar arrangement as you have with the “holes”. That external part has been pulled away from the tractor (towards the left) exposing the rod that goes in the tractor (towards the right). The two holes that are highlighted should be aligned and have a pin going through them to link them together. Your hole on the external part have the pin sticking out of the hole, but there is a hole 180 degrees from the pin that is probably open.
 
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Chaos2art

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B7100, B7800 w/Mid Mower, Woods RM550, a pile of other implements
Jul 29, 2026
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And here is a tool set that is designed to remove the roll pins. Since you have an inner and outer roll pin you will need to drive the inner (locking) pin out before you can remove the outer pin.

If you get this type of tool make sure it is for metric roll pins (assuming that Kubota uses metric pins).

View attachment 177551
Thank you so much. Since my pin is horizontal I get the idea that it is sheared off and I will have to drive it out. My Irwin punches aren't metric and I get the impression the measurement must be exact, so thanks for the picture of the pin punches. I will purchase those as well. My next step as I interpret it is to use a vice grip and pull the existing roll pins out with a twisting motion. If I can't see completely through the hole I will need to use a punch and drive out the broken pin. Then I align the hole and put in the larger pin followed by the smaller pin. SHOULD THE PINS ONCE INSERTED FIT FLUSH INTO THE HOLE? Ordering the pins now since I have to get a part for my other broken tractor. Fingers crossed. Everyone - thank you so much.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Thank you so much. Since my pin is horizontal I get the idea that it is sheared off and I will have to drive it out. My Irwin punches aren't metric and I get the impression the measurement must be exact, so thanks for the picture of the pin punches. I will purchase those as well. My next step as I interpret it is to use a vice grip and pull the existing roll pins out with a twisting motion. If I can't see completely through the hole I will need to use a punch and drive out the broken pin. Then I align the hole and put in the larger pin followed by the smaller pin. SHOULD THE PINS ONCE INSERTED FIT FLUSH INTO THE HOLE? Ordering the pins now since I have to get a part for my other broken tractor. Fingers crossed. Everyone - thank you so much.
The chances of the pin being sheared off are really low, it looks like it just moved out that last little bit and became disconnected.
The new pins will fit in flush to both sides or really close to it.
 

Russell King

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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
7,883
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113
Austin, Texas
Thank you so much. Since my pin is horizontal I get the idea that it is sheared off and I will have to drive it out. My Irwin punches aren't metric and I get the impression the measurement must be exact, so thanks for the picture of the pin punches. I will purchase those as well. My next step as I interpret it is to use a vice grip and pull the existing roll pins out with a twisting motion. If I can't see completely through the hole I will need to use a punch and drive out the broken pin. Then I align the hole and put in the larger pin followed by the smaller pin. SHOULD THE PINS ONCE INSERTED FIT FLUSH INTO THE HOLE? Ordering the pins now since I have to get a part for my other broken tractor. Fingers crossed. Everyone - thank you so much.
Since it appears that your pins have removed themselves from the holes, I don’t think you need to worry with getting that set of pins. I would suggest that you try to grab the pin(s) you can see sticking out with a pair of pliers (maybe vice grip type) and see if you can wiggle the pins out of the hole. You just need to be careful about pulling hard and the pliers or pins coming loose. That would slam an elbow or wrist/hand into something that would cause some pain or injury. If that didn’t work, I would use the largest pin that matches the that matches the larger pin ( marked in green in post #18) and insert it into the hole opposite the pins sticking and try to tap them out. (There may be no room on that side to do that though).

That “special“ tool just makes it easier to start driving the roll pins out by centering the pin in the center of the tool pin and having the correct diameter to go into the hole. You are correct that the size is important, you don’t want to have the pin being driven against the surface of the hole, you want it on the shoulder of the pin. Too small a diameter would go into the pin and expand it and get the pin and punch stuck in the hole.
 
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