Too fat/lazy/old to unlock your SSQA?????……..Then follow me ;)

[Chanceywd]

Quick important update to my attempt.
I hooked it up to my 3rd function to try and it needs some more work.
The 8" stroke is close but you can see it stress the whole latch area.
Definitely even a fraction of an inch with that small cylinder needs to be addressed.
You definitely don't want to try this with a longer one in stroke or bore or you are going to do some bending first try.
I am going to see if adding to the handles below the present linkage point for the pins one or both handles will let me make the cylinder bottom and extend fully.
The other thought is to put a collar on the cylinder and shorten its stoke.
Just be for warned damage ahead is possible.
The linear actuator obviously had no where near this force.

Bill

 

[Old Machinist]

My thought on using a hydraulic cylinder is you need to design it to be at full latch when at full stroke. Or maybe you could use a stiff compression spring the the design so it has a little give at the end of it's stroke. But I would put it at the unlatch end of travel.

If it's too fast you can add a restrictor in one fitting.

 

[TheOldHokie]

My brother lives in Buffalo about 3 and a half hrs away and stopping by today so not much tractor stuff getting done. A little tinkering on our late life crisis cars and a beer or maybe two and lunch!
Mines a 2006 red Miata, his is a 2008 banana yellow Solstice.

Bill

Must be an age thing.

Thoughts of a late model year Fiat 128 Spyder Abarth have been keeping me awake at night. Right in my price range for a boy toy but the lack of ponies is putting me off.

Last night I found myself pricing 2017-2019 Masarati GrandTurismo convertibles. Plenty of ponies but a real Italian luxury sports car with all that entails. Also twice the price of the fake "Fiat"

The other Old Hokie won't be happy with either idea

Dan

 

[Old Machinist]

Must be an age thing.

Thoughts of a late model year Fiat 128 Spyder Abarth have been keeping me awake at night. Right in my price range for a boy toy but the lack of ponies is putting me off.

Last night I found myself pricing 2017-2019 Masarati GrandTurismo convertibles. Plenty of ponies but a real Italian luxury sports car with all that entails. Also twice the price of the fake "Fiat"

The other Old Hokie won't be happy with either idea

Dan

I vote no on the Fiat 128 Spyder Abarth since there is no such animal. Did you mean Fiat 124 Spyder Abarth? Remeber FIAT is the acronym for "Fix Again Tony"

 

[TheOldHokie]

I vote no on the Fiat 128 Spyder Abarth since there is no such animal. Did you mean Fiat 124 Spyder Abarth?

Oops...

 

[TheOldHokie]

I vote no on the Fiat 128 Spyder Abarth since there is no such animal. Did you mean Fiat 124 Spyder Abarth? Remeber FIAT is the acronym for "Fix Again Tony"

The Spider is a rebadged Miata.

Dan

 

[Chanceywd]

I added 2, 5/8 double split shaft collars to the rod end right against the attaching weld for the ball swivel and no more push or pull on the frame
It could use flow restriction. I have a muffler clamp holding my extender in line until the cylinder size collars come.
Tried it on my bucket, forks and grapple. pretty nice.
I will do some more info on it in a couple days. measurements etc.

Plus some hose routing is in order.

bill

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Quick important update to my attempt.
I hooked it up to my 3rd function to try and it needs some more work.
The 8" stroke is close but you can see it stress the whole latch area.
Definitely even a fraction of an inch with that small cylinder needs to be addressed.
You definitely don't want to try this with a longer one in stroke or bore or you are going to do some bending first try.
I am going to see if adding to the handles below the present linkage point for the pins one or both handles will let me make the cylinder bottom and extend fully.
The other thought is to put a collar on the cylinder and shorten its stoke.
Just be for warned damage ahead is possible.
The linear actuator obviously had no where near this force.

Bill

I added 2, 5/8 double split shaft collars to the rod end right against the attaching weld for the ball swivel and no more push or pull on the frame
It could use flow restriction. I have a muffler clamp holding my extender in line until the cylinder size collars come.
Tried it on my bucket, forks and grapple. pretty nice.
I will do some more info on it in a couple days. measurements etc.

Plus some hose routing is in order.

bill

Yes sir!

Thanks for the heads up.

My measurments indicated that 7” would have been the perfect stroke, so I figured I might have to find a “work around” to account for the extra inch.

I may as well just order a flow restrictor today as well, sounds like I am going to need one.

So those collars are acting like spacers?

My thought on using a hydraulic cylinder is you need to design it to be at full latch when at full stroke. Or maybe you could use a stiff compression spring the the design so it has a little give at the end of it's stroke. But I would put it at the unlatch end of travel.

If it's too fast you can add a restrictor in one fitting.

Your spring idea is kinda what I was thinking of….However, the more I look at @Chanceywd spacer idea (If I am correct), the more I like its simplicity.


EDIT: I just opened my diverter valve.

Kinda exciting for some strange reason…...




I am assuming this plug is telling the size of the hose end I will be needing?

3/4”?

 

[Chanceywd]

Yes to the collars as spacers.
I did however earlier before applying hydraulics ground about a quarter of an inch off the rod end where it would be hitting the quick attach . That was to get as much stroke used as possible. I figured there was plenty of meat there between the outer part and the swivel ball as they weld to it.
I loosened the shipping plugs and was able to easily move the cylinder stroke while determining the fit .
I was naive I guess in just how much power that could apply to the latch area in both pulling and pushing.
When I was finished yesterday after trying I measured between the top of the plates at open and close with nothing on it. On mine it was 24-13/16ths.

The base end extender I made is close to 12-5/8the center to center on the holes.
I made that out of some 3/16" x 1" flat stock. I chose that size because I made it like an I beam to fit over the base end swivel that which is 1" and then those 2 layers make it 1-3/8 which match the OD of the cylinder. 2 more pcs of that plated and welded at the swivel extend about 5" to where the 1-3/8 split shaft collar will be welded to keep it straight. They will have to be welded to the flat stock while its on there unless I fasten some other way, maybe just modify my exhaust clamp???

On the other end of the I beam I used a short pc of 1"x1" square that I tapped for the 1/2"-20 hemi end so I have some adjustment.
Again a reminder I used m12-1.25 x 45 bolts and they didn't bottom or hit the existing pin linkage.

Ignore the ruler in the hemi end picture, it was just laid there while I used 2 hands for a picture.

I guess I am going to use my third function ports for now and maybe get that valve you got .

I have to work on finishing my wood shed addition on the garage so it can wait.
Meanwhile I have some extra hi pressure ball valves and may stick one in line up by the loader valve so I don't accidentally hit the 3rd function and open pins at a bad time. I have a switch on that but don't want to write a mangled ssqa mangled story.

Edit I added a picture showing the overall I beam etc.

Bill

 

[Old Machinist]

Yes sir!

Thanks for the heads up.

My measurments indicated that 7” would have been the perfect stroke, so I figured I might have to find a “work around” to account for the extra inch.

I may as well just order a flow restrictor today as well, sounds like I am going to need one.

So those collars are acting like spacers?



Your spring idea is kinda what I was thinking of….However, the more I look at @Chanceywd spacer idea (If I am correct), the more I like its simplicity.


EDIT: I just opened my diverter valve.

Kinda exciting for some strange reason…...

View attachment 177373


I am assuming this plug is telling the size of the hose end I will be needing?

3/4”?



View attachment 177374

Yeah the 3/4 is a #10 SAE or ORB whichever you prefer to call it. You will need adaptors to connect those ports to the hoses. Consider the mounting location and direction. If you need to face hoses in inline directions you will need standoff adaptors so one can pass over the other.

I used 3 one inch standoffs on it so the hoses could connect inline. If you use 90s as I did they ARE clockable so hoses can be attached to the sides without standoffs. You can also use simple straight adaptors if you have space to connect that way. Lots of options and decisions to make.

Here is a photo of the one I put on my old JD with #8 SAE ports.

 

[Killer Bee]

dash (-) size is the number of 16ths of an inch.

3/4" is -12
-10 is 5/8"

and technically, SAE (45° flare) and JIC (37° flare) are different although they share the same threads, EXCEPT for -6 and -12 where threads are not interchangeable. so versa flare or dual flared fittings are available in most sizes except the two 3's, 3/8 and 3/4.

fun fact - a JICM will thread into an ORBF (depending on depth), just add the appropriate 900srs o-ring. I've done this a few times to get by until desired fittings were available. for example, JIC plugs will seal JIC and ORB ports and hose ends.

 

[Old Machinist]

dash (-) size is the number of 16ths of an inch.

3/4" is -12
-10 is 5/8"

and technically, SAE (45° flare) and JIC (37° flare) are different although they share the same threads, EXCEPT for -6 and -12 where threads are not interchangeable. so versa flare or dual flared fittings are available in most sizes except the two 3's, 3/8 and 3/4.

fun fact - a JICM will thread into an ORBF (depending on depth), just add the appropriate 900srs o-ring. I've done this a few times to get by until desired fittings were available. for example, JIC plugs will seal JIC and ORB ports and hose ends.

Thanks for the correction. I cited #10 without double checking the chart.

 

[Chanceywd]

Yes sir!

Thanks for the heads up.

My measurments indicated that 7” would have been the perfect stroke, so I figured I might have to find a “work around” to account for the extra inch.

I may as well just order a flow restrictor today as well, sounds like I am going to need one.

So those collars are acting like spacers?



Your spring idea is kinda what I was thinking of….However, the more I look at @Chanceywd spacer idea (If I am correct), the more I like its simplicity.


EDIT: I just opened my diverter valve.

Kinda exciting for some strange reason…...

View attachment 177373


I am assuming this plug is telling the size of the hose end I will be needing?

3/4”?



View attachment 177374

So is that the ebay valve you linked or the surplus center one? I'm ready to order one!
I am thinking if I put one on I would have that turned on by a momentary switch so I couldn't screw up and leave it in the wrong position.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Thanks guys for all the help and clarification on fitting sizes.

I will have to re-read it all and digest it this week.

So is that the ebay valve you linked or the surplus center one? I'm ready to order one!
I am thinking if I put one on I would have that turned on by a momentary switch so I couldn't screw up and leave it in the wrong position.

That is the Ebay one.

As per @TheOldHokie , I decided to get the cheap one. If/when it fails I will look for a “name brand” replacement, but until that time...

I am also considering a “momentary switch” for the same reasons.

 

[Chanceywd]

Thanks guys for all the help and clarification on fitting sizes.

I will have to re-read it all and digest it this week.



That is the Ebay one.

As per @TheOldHokie , I decided to get the cheap one. If/when it fails I will look for a “name brand” replacement, but until that time...

I am also considering a “momentary switch” for the same reasons.

Thanks RWS,
Bill

 

[Old Machinist]

Thanks guys for all the help and clarification on fitting sizes.

I will have to re-read it all and digest it this week.



That is the Ebay one.

As per @TheOldHokie , I decided to get the cheap one. If/when it fails I will look for a “name brand” replacement, but until that time...

I am also considering a “momentary switch” for the same reasons.

I'm afraid you will find getting adaptors to that large port size challenging and maybe expensive. That is why I suggested you work all that out before deciding on a valve.

Not many options for going from a 3/4 ORB to a 1/4 JIC but here is a straight one listed.

6400-04-12 | 1/4" JIC Male x #12 SAE/ORB Male

Check out the deal on 6400-04-12 | 1/4" JIC Male x #12 SAE/ORB Male at DiscountHydraulicHose.com

www.discounthydraulichose.com

The other cheap valves usually show having 1/2" BSP ports and I can only find adaptors to 3/8 JIC for those.

You can always adapt to an adaptor but things start to grow larger when you do that. You might find it easier and less expensive to just run 3/8" hoses?

This might be a good starting point in your search.

SAE Straight Thread (ORB)

SAE Straight Thread, also called O-Ring Boss or ORB, is recommended by the NFPA for optimal leakage control in medium and high pressure hydraulic systems.

www.discounthydraulichose.com

 

[Russell King]

@Runs With Scissors

Are you getting a cylinder with DPOCV or adding that yourself?

 

[#40Fan]

Not many options for going from a 3/4 ORB to a 1/4 JIC but here is a straight one listed.

6400-04-12 | 1/4" JIC Male x #12 SAE/ORB Male

Check out the deal on 6400-04-12 | 1/4" JIC Male x #12 SAE/ORB Male at DiscountHydraulicHose.com

www.discounthydraulichose.com

https://www.hydraulicsdirect.com/ad...-adapters/sae-o-ring-boss-orb/6400/6400-04-12

I won't bother this thread with any more price checks, but you can see with this one fitting, half the price from Hydraulics Direct.

 

[Old Machinist]

https://www.hydraulicsdirect.com/ad...-adapters/sae-o-ring-boss-orb/6400/6400-04-12

I won't bother this thread with any more price checks, but you can see with this one fitting, half the price from Hydraulics Direct.

Looks like a great alternative for fittings! Thanks for posting.

 

[Kennyd4110]

Can also just go to -06 JIC, that's easily crimped on 1/4 hose.