FEL control lever sticks

[RayX]

I am proud owner of a L3240 HST and having a problem with FEL control valve in the left or right position; it sticks and has to be manually bumped back in neutral position. Moving the valve forward or back springs back into neutral automatically. It started gradually and got progressively worse. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
Ray

 

[Bluegill]

Welcome.

Use WD-40.

 

[RayX]

Thanks Bluegill, I'll try that.

 

[BadDog]

Sorry, but I wouldn't use WD-40. Better to use some sort of penetrating oil, or just light machine oil. WD-40 dries and leaves a gummy film behind, and while it may help short term due to the solvents in WD-40, once it dries, unless it just flushes out a much worse gum/debris accumulation, you may find yourself in worse shape than before.

 

[MOWOG]

I am proud owner of a L3240 HST and having a problem with FEL control valve in the left or right position; it sticks and has to be manually bumped back in neutral position. Moving the valve forward or back springs back into neutral automatically. It started gradually and got progressively worse. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
Ray

I had a similar problem recently... the piston on the left was stuck in the forward position. I removed the control valve from the tractor and put it over a square plastic pan to dismantle it... So I wouldn't loose anything. There was a small spring and ball on each piston as well as a larger spring on the end of each piston. I cleaned everything with solvent, oiled it up and put it back together. It's been working fine since. I didn't take the pistons out... Just oiled them up and everything seemed to slide back and forth real we'll. jim

 

[RayX]

Baddog/Mowog thanks for replies. Didn't know that about DW-40;good to know. A friend had given me a few cans of Eze-Way penetrant/release agent. Will be my last effort to pull unit out. Still learning my way around tractor and looks like removing the seat assembly plate will give me full access to FEL control valve. Will let you know progression

 

[85Hokie]

Wd-40 was "invented" to repell water......it is not a real good cleaner, nor lubricate however - does leave stuff behind....but it will free up stuck stuff, but even then it is not as good as ATF and acetone mixed.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40

 

[mikkeeh]

Make sure the 3pt lift lever isn't in bypass. If its all the way up, it will open the bypass valve on the hydraulic system, and cause the loader lever to stick. Its a cheap try anyway!

 

[RayX]

an update as to control valve sticking. Tried most all suggestions and should have crawled under tractor instead of looking from top side. The photo is of valve from below and there's two cylinder; the one that is sticking is the one to the right. Question I have now is, do I carefully remove the cylinder in question and will I find the spring in the cylinder? It this a dry cylinder or is there fluid in it? One thing for sure it will be a tight fit with open end wrench. Socket wrench won't fit. ugh Many Thanks!! Ray

 

[Lil Foot]

When my B7100 & my buddy's B7510 showed the same symptoms, we looked at the area you have pictured. On ours, the cylinder shaped things you pictured contain the detent mechanism for the float position. Both were rusted beyond saving. They both had similar setups inside, with steel balls, springs, & a detent groove. I could not get parts for mine, so I removed the guts & it now is smooth as a babies butt, and I must hold the lever forward for float. My buddy has parts on order for his.

 

[RayX]

When my B7100 & my buddy's B7510 showed the same symptoms, we looked at the area you have pictured. On ours, the cylinder shaped things you pictured contain the detent mechanism for the float position. Both were rusted beyond saving. They both had similar setups inside, with steel balls, springs, & a detent groove. I could not get parts for mine, so I removed the guts & it now is smooth as a babies butt, and I must hold the lever forward for float. My buddy has parts on order for his.

Thanks for the input Lil Foot. I'm assuming the one on the right is for the bucket dump and the other is from raising/lowering FEL. I will probably tackle tomorrow when I'm finished with "honey-do's". Ray

 

[RayX]

When my B7100 & my buddy's B7510 showed the same symptoms, we looked at the area you have pictured. On ours, the cylinder shaped things you pictured contain the detent mechanism for the float position. Both were rusted beyond saving. They both had similar setups inside, with steel balls, springs, & a detent groove. I could not get parts for mine, so I removed the guts & it now is smooth as a babies butt, and I must hold the lever forward for float. My buddy has parts on order for his.

Made some time and managed to squeeze under the subframe. lol Attached photo show spring uncovered. No rust and well greased. Did notice when I removed the other cover the spring slipped down and lift control lever had to be pulled back for the spring to retract and cover replaced. Please bear in mind I have absolutely no ideal on what I'm doing except I know I need to get it done. The exposed spring will not move like the other. How do I remove the spring? At the top of the control valve, the rod is attached with a pin. Do I remove pin and turn the rod from the base? I feel this is a simple fix once done. It's the not knowing what to expect. Many Thanks! Ray

 

[Lil Foot]

Mine had a regular hex head bolt that unscrewed while holding the spool (the part that moves back & forth in the valve body) at the lever end- yours appears to be similar, except with a sort of "oval" style head.

 

[RayX]

Mine had a regular hex head bolt that unscrewed while holding the spool (the part that moves back & forth in the valve body) at the lever end- yours appears to be similar, except with a sort of "oval" style head.

Many thank - does the post slip out with spring? Is there anything else on that post?
Ray

 

[Lil Foot]

Sounds like you need a manual for that specific tractor/valve. I would not disassemble it further on the tractor, without a manual, or without a rebuild kit.
Here's a pic of a valve similar to mine, and, as you can see, it's not a simple post that pulls out... there are seals, o-rings, springs, relief valves, etc.