BX 3PT shaft - getting the D-bushings out of the frame

[Tranberg]

With stubbornness, an oxy-acetylene torch, a sledge hammer, and a pry bar, I’ve managed to separate most of the rusty 3-point hitch on my new-to-me Kubota BX2350. However, I can’t get the D-shaped bushings out of the frame and in toward the center of the axle so I can remove the axle and lift arms. I’m considering welding a nut or something similar onto them so I can drive them out along the axle.What have owners in the Rust Belt done?

 

[mikester]

I don’t have experience with your machine. Generally I try to press out bushings using hydraulics. Post some pics if you’re looking for ideas

 

[Russell King]

I don’t really understand your question since I don’t know much about that particular tractor but looking at the illustrated parts lists showed the diagram below.

I think you want to get out item #20 by removing the pin #10. It seems there is a keeper #110 and #120 that holds the #10 in place.

 

[Tranberg]

I have already removed the plate (100)
The 2 D-shape bushings (020) are stuck in the frame, so I cant push them towards the centre of the shaft (010), in order to remove the shaft and the lower lift arms (130)
The shaft (010) is smooth where the lift arms have been sitting, and there's no visible rust where it enters the bushings (020)
Using a punch to beat on (what I beleive to be) the bushing from the wheel side, does nothing.
I've run out of Acetylene, so I can't heat anything up, to get things going again.

 

[Russell King]

Okay I understand the problem better now.

But have no idea how the bushings are installed. They may be fairly tightly installed in the holes of that support structure and not supposed to come out easily.

Here are a few suggestions from a few thousand miles from seeing the exact situation.

1). Remove the eight bolts that hold on that U shaped undercarriage that is bolted to the tractor enough. Then you can get it all out from underneath the tractor and use alternate methods to remove and replace the parts needing replacement.

2) Spray the pin to bushing interface with the best rust breaking penetrating solution that Denmark has to offer. In the USA I would recommend PB Blaster, Kroil, Deep Creep but NOT WD-40. Then remove the rear wheels so you can hit the end of pin #10. Protect the end of pin from mushrooming and hammer on it robustly. You might try using a brass hammer at first or an air hammer.

3) cut the #10 pin just inside the bushings and try to drive it outward and then inwards to get it moving.

That is all I can “see” from here.

Good luck

 

[Sawdust&Shavings]

Okay I understand the problem better now.

But have no idea how the bushings are installed. They may be fairly tightly installed in the holes of that support structure and not supposed to come out easily.

Here are a few suggestions from a few thousand miles from seeing the e

The bushings just slide in from the inside outwards towards the tires. Assuming the bushings are oriented correctly with the flat part of the bushing aligned with the flats
When mine are stuck

With stubbornness, an oxy-acetylene torch, a sledge hammer, and a pry bar, I’ve managed to separate most of the rusty 3-point hitch on my new-to-me Kubota BX2350. However, I can’t get the D-shaped bushings out of the frame and in toward the center of the axle so I can remove the axle and lift arms. I’m considering welding a nut or something similar onto them so I can drive them out along the axle.What have owners in the Rust Belt done?

As you stated, the bushings are pushed in by hand from the inside out towards the tires. As long as the flat side of the bushings are aligned with the flats on the tractor they can be persuaded by placing a socket (from your socket set) on the outside and tapping with a rubber mallet or hammer or dead blow hammer. It’s a tight space, you’ll get a better hammer swing if you remove your the tire.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

OK, I have a BX23S which I assume is similar ( haven't installed the 3PH yet)
I'm real curious. Looking at the picture in reply #4, What actually holds the 'shaft' ( #010) from falling out ?

 

[Tranberg]

What actually holds the 'shaft' ( #010) from falling out ?

There are holes in each side of the frame, where the shaft can slide through, but the D-shaped bushings hold the shaft above the holes, so it can't slide out.
All the videos, even Messicks', which I find best, don't show it very well.

As long as the flat side of the bushings are aligned with the flats on the tractor they can be persuaded by placing a socket (from your socket set) on the outside and tapping with a rubber mallet or hammer or dead blow hammer.

Errr, Looking from the end of the shaft, I can see part of the shaft and part of the bushing.
I tried using a 3/16 drift to only hit on the bushing. A socket would bear on both the shaft and the bushing, but the shaft can't move, since it's trapped by the frame rails, as long as the D-shape bushings don't slide in.

There's a hole in the bucket, dear Liza

I'm adamant to only buy new parts, if it's the very last option, so I'm not going to cut the shaft just yet.

 

[Tranberg]

 

[Tranberg]

Here are the cheerful smiley faces that greet me when I look at the shaft from either end.
I most get hold of some more Acetylene to heat up the suckers

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Are you sure there are actually bushings in there?

The reason I ask, is that from your pictures, I can’t see the “ouline” of the bushing.

It “appears to me” to be solid?…..

If they are there, Here are some of the things I would try.

1. Heat with torch and rub a “crayon” on the seam to melt it. Sometimes it “wicks” the crayon into the crack and helps to free it up.

2. Heat it up, and quickly splash cold water on it. The “shock” of the hot/cold cycling may help break it free.

Depending on the “amount of flex” of the part, a “homemade” bushing press might work better than a hammer and punch. …...Something similar to a “ball joint press”.

 

[Tranberg]

Oh, the bushings are there. If you look at the picture from the workshop manual, the D-shaped holes are in the large u-shaped bracket, where the drawbar is attached at the bottom, and that bracket is bolted between the frame rails, which have circular holes, where the shaft can go through, once the bushings have been slid out of their holes.
I have since heated up the bushings and plan to give them a good beating after lunch.

 

[Tranberg]

The shaft is colored green and sits flush with the bushing, colored orange, and the wite circle around them is the circular hole in the frame rail, and the bushing and shaft rests inside the frame rails.

Edit: Finally got the suckers out, after heating them red with oxy-acetylene and drifting them in after cooling, with a 3/16" drift and a 3-pound hammer.