Kubota L35 Hard Starting When Cold

LeanGreenMan

New member

Equipment
L35
Apr 30, 2026
14
2
3
Colorado
I have a 2001 L35 with about 1100 hours on it. I purchased it a couple years ago, history unknown, I have done a bunch of repairs (mainly fixing hydraulic leaks), and have put about 200 hours on it.

Recently it has become challenging to start when in the 30s or 40s F. Granted the block may be colder from sitting overnight. I have a service manual and I can't find anything on what the glow plugs are supposed to read on an ohm meter. All my glow plugs read roughly 1.6 ohms. The glow plug controller seems to work properly as I don't have the light randomly turning on, when the tractor is hot it only lights for a second or less, and when the tractor is cold it lights for maybe 5 seconds.

To get the tractor started when cold, I now have to give it full throttle with the foot pedal, cycle the glow plugs, crank a few seconds, fail to start, and repeat the process a second, sometimes a third time. Once it catches I let off the throttle and while it may run rough for a second or two it then runs smoothly. On initial start it blows a cloud of smoke, mostly black, a little bit grey, but clears up within a second or two.

This is contrary to how it worked a year ago when generally it would start first try when it was in the 20s outside and didn't require any throttle past idle.

I do have some vapor coming out the CCV tube when it is running, I think it may be more when hot, but it is not enough that I smell oil while it is running. Oil level is stable, although I guess it's possible that oil and diesel are mixing at a rate to keep the oil level stable... I doubt this, but it is possible. I run 10W-30 oil as speced by the manual. The vapor may be greater than it was a couple years ago, I don't know and I don't have a compression tester. The exhaust doesn't smoke except as noted on startup and if a lug the engine doing loader work - in that case it will smoke black.

Valves have not been adjusted to my knowledge. That is one of the things on my todo list. It is important to me that this starts reliably when it is cold out. One of my next improvements will be to add a quick tach so I can utilize a pusher box to push snow. I will get a magnetic block heater, but I do not want this to be reliant on the block heater when cold.

Any advice is much appreciated.
 

Nicksacco

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Equipment
Kubota L35 TLB, 2014 RTV-1140CPX
Sep 15, 2021
763
501
93
Bahama, NC
Have you checked the injectors?
The injectors are very easy to take apart and clean.

A problem with something downstream such as fuel filter, water in diesel could also be the issue.
Is the battery able to spin the engine over quickly?


 
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#40Fan

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Jul 21, 2022
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Even though the light on the dash is coming on, confirm you are getting power to the glow plugs.
 
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Russell King

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Jun 17, 2012
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I don’t think the magnetic heater will help much and the oil pan is probably cast aluminum.

You may want to add one like this (use as reference only - I don’t know how to find the exact L35 part).

BUT if it didn’t need it in the past I would get the glow plugs checked out first.

IMG_0658.png
 
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Hugo Habicht

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Check / adjust valve play first. Then check current is flowing into the glow plugs using an ampmeter. You wrote you have checked the resistance, but measuring the current covers everything (cables, switches etc.).
 

L35

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L35/TL720/BT900/York rake/Valby chipper
Jun 13, 2010
690
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FWIW I have about 1400hrs and no blowby out the draft tube.
 

LeanGreenMan

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Equipment
L35
Apr 30, 2026
14
2
3
Colorado
Check / adjust valve play first. Then check current is flowing into the glow plugs using an ampmeter. You wrote you have checked the resistance, but measuring the current covers everything (cables, switches etc.).
Yeah, planning on getting to that later today. Trying to run the last of my topsoil through my grizzly so I can get seed down before it is too late...
 

LeanGreenMan

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Equipment
L35
Apr 30, 2026
14
2
3
Colorado
FWIW I have about 1400hrs and no blowby out the draft tube.
I had virtually no blow by when I picked this tractor up. It is worse now. I can't figure out what is causing it. I religiously clean the air filter, I do not see any possible dirt/dust intrusion spots, and I have no oil consumption... I just checked that, still exactly where it should be, and it doesn't smell like diesel.
 

LeanGreenMan

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Equipment
L35
Apr 30, 2026
14
2
3
Colorado
Well ladies and gentleman, bad news. Pulled the air filter out, pulled the clean side air intake hose off, and there is a little bit of dust in there. Not sure where the dust intrusion is coming from. It appears once upon a time a mouse or something must've chewed up the air filter (before I owned it), as the supports inside the filter housing have been chewed on. I'm not sure if this is dust that has been in there since that incident, or what. I am slightly concerned my air filter isn't sealing tight against the housing. I don't know why that would be as the screw for the cap gets progressively tighter as I screw it down which suggests the air filter seal is being squeezed as designed.

While this may be a valve issue, or fuel issue, or glow plug issue, I am now very concerned it is a compression issue. I'll see if my neighbor has a compression tester when he gets home. If not, I'll order one. Before I start chasing a bunch of stuff, I guess I need to make sure I don't need to rebuild or replace the engine.
 
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Hugo Habicht

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I hope it's not a bigger problem.

But if compression is bad you should check valve play as well, this may be a reason for it. And do not forget to check the glow plugs from getting current. This would be the most common cause for a poor start.
 

LeanGreenMan

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Equipment
L35
Apr 30, 2026
14
2
3
Colorado
Update:
1.) Can't find a compression tester locally that will fit the glow plug holes. Unsure if compression is an issue. Frankly, it doesn't matter a whole lot. If nothing else solves the issue, then I'll start thinking about learning how to rebuild an engine.
2.) Glow plug bus bar is receiving power, built up to around 12V over a couple seconds, then cut power when the controller switched off. When cold out, how long should the controller be providing power? I think I'm at 5 seconds tops, probably closer to 3. Also, to clarify, 1.6 ohms is a good reading for the glow plugs? The reason I ask about the glow plug cycle time is my 7.3 IDI runs the glow plugs for at least 15 seconds when cold, and my neighbors modern LS tractor is pretty close to that too.
3.) Changed the fuel filter, no change to the hard cold starting.

Next steps are valve adjustment and checking injectors. Any advice on either? After reading online, sounds like EOIC is the way to do it for the valves, as the timing cover is pretty much inaccessible. I haven't looked into how to check my injectors yet.

Including a video of the hard starting in case anyone sees something I am missing. Honestly, the way this thing struggles to start is the same way my '91 7.3 IDI did when the glow plugs weren't getting sufficient power and/or the controller was short cycling.

 

Hugo Habicht

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Is the preglow current switched off automatically by a timer? If so, maybe the timer is faulty. Check the work shop manual in this case for the correct time for the temperature you have now.
 

LeanGreenMan

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L35
Apr 30, 2026
14
2
3
Colorado
Unsure, will do, will report back. I know on my 7.3 IDI the "Wait to Start" light will glow for about 15 seconds, turn off, and then the plugs actually stay on for a little while longer. These shut off immediately when the glow plug light turns off.
 

Russell King

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Jun 17, 2012
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That looks like glow plug problems to me. (And possibly a bit slow crank speed?)

I think you should try to just cycle the glow plugs three or four times before you ever try to crank it. I think you can just turn the key on, glow plug light goes out, turn key off then on again, glow plug goes out, repeat but this time crank the engine. If it starts then you know that you just need more glow time and can resolve that issue.

The slight white smoke looks like unburnt fuel from one cylinder that goes away when it gets warmer from compression and then starts firing off the fuel.

I don’t recall if you have a block coolant heater installed but that may be signaling the glow plugs that the ambient temperature is higher than it actually is. I think some Kubotas measure air temperature and others measure coolant temperature to set glow plug time on start. You might want to see if the wiring diagram gives you the answer to that and then see if you could change it to air temperature instead of coolant temperature.

On the resistance, the 1.0 Ohm is for one glow plug from top connection point to ground. You may need to disconnect the glow plug rail to measure each one individually since they are in parallel.
 
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LeanGreenMan

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Equipment
L35
Apr 30, 2026
14
2
3
Colorado
That looks like glow plug problems to me. (And possibly a bit slow crank speed?)

I think you should try to just cycle the glow plugs three or four times before you ever try to crank it. I think you can just turn the key on, glow plug light goes out, turn key off then on again, glow plug goes out, repeat but this time crank the engine. If it starts then you know that you just need more glow time and can resolve that issue.

The slight white smoke looks like unburnt fuel from one cylinder that goes away when it gets warmer from compression and then starts firing off the fuel.

I don’t recall if you have a block coolant heater installed but that may be signaling the glow plugs that the ambient temperature is higher than it actually is. I think some Kubotas measure air temperature and others measure coolant temperature to set glow plug time on start. You might want to see if the wiring diagram gives you the answer to that and then see if you could change it to air temperature instead of coolant temperature.

On the resistance, the 1.0 Ohm is for one glow plug from top connection point to ground. You may need to disconnect the glow plug rail to measure each one individually since they are in parallel.
The battery is a couple years old, and I agree, it does seem on the slower side.

I will try the multiple cycles of the glow plugs.

No block heater.

That 1.0 ohm is what they should be reading? Apologies but I can't find the proper ohm reading for glow plugs in my shop manual. I removed the glow plug rail to check resistance on the plugs... all read individually 1.6 ohms. My multimeter does fluctuate a tiny bit, but generally they seemed to sit at 1.6.

Possible stuck injector on one cylinder?
 

Hugo Habicht

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G1900
Jun 24, 2024
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And measure the glow plug current individually.

Trying to measure resistance (of the whole rail ?!?) is no good here.

Despite what some people claim here, it is not possible to measure resistances that low with a multimeter. You need four wire measurement to get usable results.
 
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Hugo Habicht

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Can you confirm that the glow plugs are being switched by a timer? If yes, do you have the pre glow time from the work shop manual?
 
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PoTreeBoy

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L35 Ford 3930
Mar 24, 2020
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Can you confirm that the glow plugs are being switched by a timer? If yes, do you have the pre glow time from the work shop manual?
On my L35, the plugs pull the battery voltage down enough to cause the indicator lights (alt, oil pressure) to increase in brightness slightly when they turn off. Sort of a qualitative check. That's when I'm in the shed, might be too bright to notice outside.
 
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