G1800 Steering Wheel Removal

[Roger Fowler]

Can anyone suggest a puller that will fit down the .25" by .50" slots so I can remove my steering wheel? It seems like a specialized tool as all the steering wheel pullers I have looked at are much bigger than that.

Thanks in advance,
Roger

 

[Russell King]

Posting a picture of that would probably get you better answers.

I can only suggest using 1/4 inch bolts or studs through the slots and then using a puller that has a way to attach to those studs.

Some people have used a ratchet strap between the steering wheel and something above (ROPS, rafter, tree limb,…) to pull up on the steering wheel.

First warning is to leave the nut on the threaded shaft so the steering wheel won’t fly off when it breaks loose! It can hit you in the face if you are sitting in the seat.

Here is how I did it on my L185 that has a keyed smooth tapered shaft in the steering column.

Loosen the nut and remove the washers underneath the nut. Put the nut back on so if you tap the shaft you are less likely to damage the threads (and for safety).

Spray the shaft and steering wheel junction with a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster or Kroil. Let that soak for a while, overnight is best. (On mine the steering wheel has a recessed area so I filled that “cup” and let it soak for a week since it sits at the weekend property.)

Then sitting in the seat get your thighs and feet arranged to push upwards on the steering wheel. You may need to build some wooden blocks that get your feet high enough to use a calf raise push against the steering wheel. (BE SURE THE NUT IS ON THE END OF THE SHAFT.). Then grab the steering wheel with both hands and start pushing upwards with your legs, while also pulling upward with your hands. You can try some jerking motions with your hands to get it loose. Some people use an air hammer to rattle the shaft as the legs push up, others use a brass punch/hammer to tap the end of the shaft to get it released. Mine simply broke loose with the leg push and arms pulling method.

Coat the shaft with anti-seize before you put the steering wheel back on.

Good luck and don’t get hit in the face by the steering wheel!

 

[Roger Fowler]

Thanks, Russell, I just came in from getting a picture of the steering wheel when I saw your reply. All good suggestions.

There is no access to the bottom of the steering wheel, so I can't put a nut or anything on the bolt. It will have to be an "L" shaped tool that goes down and grabs the metal cylinder around the shaft. (BTW the inside and outside of the slot aren't straight. They are wrapped around a 1" radius curve. :-( )

I guess I will give the Kroil a week to work, then try the leg and hand pull method. And your suggestion of putting the nut back on is a good one!

Picture is attached.

Roger

 

[sivicman]

I had the same problem with my T2290 steering wheel. You are right, you can not get a puller on there. It was rusted onto the shaft. I soaked it down with PB Blaster overnight, and was using a hammer on the steering shaft. That loosened up some rust. Then I got the propane torch and heated up the shaft trying not to melt the steering wheel, and that worked. I caked the hell out of the shaft and steering wheel spines with anti-seize after that.

 

[Russell King]

Thanks, Russell, I just came in from getting a picture of the steering wheel when I saw your reply. All good suggestions.

There is no access to the bottom of the steering wheel, so I can't put a nut or anything on the bolt. It will have to be an "L" shaped tool that goes down and grabs the metal cylinder around the shaft. (BTW the inside and outside of the slot aren't straight. They are wrapped around a 1" radius curve. :-( )

I guess I will give the Kroil a week to work, then try the leg and hand pull method. And your suggestion of putting the nut back on is a good one!

Picture is attached.

Roger

Okay I see your problem now and I see the suggestion about the nut on back was not so good. I think I would get some smooth bar about .25 inch in diameter and bend it 90 degrees at the end so it will slide down the slot and then rotate it 90 degrees to be under the steering wheel hub. You might have trouble with that just bending back to straight when you start to pull on it???

I might use a long shank 1/4 inch bolt and cut the head off and bend the smooth end and use the threaded end to connect to the puller.

Another thought is to make some metal part that can slip behind the steering wheel and span two holes in a crescent shape. Put threaded holes in it that align with the slots. Make a second piece that can slip behind the third hole with a threaded hole. Put them in position and screw threaded rod into them and pull on those threaded rods. You might have to use three separate pieces and not try one piece for the two holes.

 

[Russell King]

I looked at the illustrated parts list and came up with a different idea! Maybe too hard to get to unless it becomes a last resort?

@Hugo Habicht may have better ideas? I remember he was working on a G1900 that might be similar enough to yours for him to have a good process.

Here is the picture of the illustration (below). Instead of taking off the steering wheel just take the rod #30 out of the upper joint on part #10. Then pull that out of the tractor and get it apart. But it may be just as stuck there but you could pry open the clamp after removing the bolt #20 (that seems to be holding in rod #30).

 

[Hugo Habicht]

Instead of taking off the steering wheel just take the rod #30 out of the upper joint on part #10. Then pull that out of the tractor and get it apart. But it may be just as stuck there but you could pry open the clamp after removing the bolt #20 (that seems to be holding in rod #30).

Yes, great idea, I believe this should be possible and should be very easy to do.

You have to remove clip ring #40 to get the rod out.

 

[GeoHorn]

I have had success in loosening the steering-wheel central nut…several turns,, …but Not removing the nut entirely…..and while pulling Up on the steering wheel… striking down-ward sharply onto the nut with a brass mallet. The steering wheel “pops” loose…against the nut….which can then be removed.

 

[Sawdust&Shavings]

I have had success in loosening the steering-wheel central nut…several turns,, …but Not removing the nut entirely…..and while pulling Up on the steering wheel… striking down-ward sharply onto the nut with a brass mallet. The steering wheel “pops” loose…against the nut….which can then be removed.

Dead blow hammer is useful here.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I 2nd geohorn's reply..
put nut back on, flush with the shaft, have helper pull up steady and hit nut/shaft face 2-3 times. if it doesn't 'pop' do it again, it will free up, then remove nut and gently wiggle...pull .
derust BOTH pieces , slather on Never-Sieze, install wheel, remove,several times to ensure N-S is all over.

 

[Roger Fowler]

Just to close out this thread....... I removed the bolt clamping the U-joint to the upper shaft. Then I pulled up on the steering wheel to see if the wheel would come off or if the wheel and upper shaft would come out. Turns out the wheel came off with surprisingly little force. (The steering wheel is mated to the shaft with splines.) As someone said elsewhere in this thread, "Penetrating oil and patience is your friend."

Now if I can just get the accelerator lever loose from the drive arm.........................

Thanks to all that contributed,
Roger

 

[Hugo Habicht]

Now if I can just get the accelerator lever loose from the drive arm........................

Hi Roger,

are you talking about the speed control pedal for forward / reverse? That is fitted with two bolts to the pedal shaft #070.



Or are you talking about the the throttle lever? This is held by a snap pin #020. Remove that and pull lever out.

 

[Roger Fowler]

I'm talking about the throttle lever 010. The pin is removed and the nuts and washers are removed. But the arm 040 is stuck on the lever 010. I'm sure Kroil and patience will allow it to pull out in the end.

Roger

 

[Hugo Habicht]

The arm is only pushed into #040. It is a farly snug fit though; with a bit of corrosion it can get tough. The bottom has a flat section. You can see a picture here (last picture in post) of a lever I made myself matching the original: Link G1900 throttle repair

Creeping oil, wobbling at the lever and patience and possibly a good bit of heat are your friends here. Maybe you can lever it out; as I said it is only pushed in from the top and should come out with the pin removed.

You can also try with a tyre iron (or any flat steel piece) from the side against the lever bottom (where the pin was) and then give the iron a hammering from the bottom (I do not think you can hammer the lever directly).

 

[Roger Fowler]

A C-clamp held the arm down so I was able to pull up hard enough to remove the arm.

Roger