Repair case where tie rod (ball joint) connects?

[Scm]

Over the hours my hole where the tie rod end connects to the case (red circle) has wallowed out and it got to the point I keep breaking the stud. My tires will wiggle up to an inch before the steering wheel moves. I'm on my 4th tie rod end and just bought 4 more. I know the stud is tapered. Is it possible to ream out the hole and weld in a new bushing? Does anyone sell a tapered bushing? Have some made? Any ideas? These cases are now over $425 each

.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Over the hours my hole where the tie rod end connects to the case (red circle) has wallowed out and it got to the point I keep breaking the stud. My tires will wiggle up to an inch before the steering wheel moves. I'm on my 4th tie rod end and just bought 4 more. I know the stud is tapered. Is it possible to ream out the hole and weld in a new bushing? Does anyone sell a tapered bushing? Have some made? Any ideas? These cases are now over $425 each

. View attachment 171985

Get up off of $425.. in this day and sge thats not bad.

Dan

 

[Scm]

Get up off of $425.. in this day and sge thats not bad.

Dan

Looking for a redneck repair.
I need both. And I'm not interested in getting a job.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Looking for a redneck repair.
I need both. And I'm not interested in getting a job.

Take them to a welding shop. It will probably cost as much as new. Repair bushings are readily available if you can find one the right size and taper.

Dan

 

[Hugo Habicht]

Ream it out with the same angle and get a machine shop to make a slieve on the lathe. A slieve should do the trick without welding if it does not protrude on the side of the nut.

Alternatively you may find a tie rod with a bigger diameter that can be fitted into a bigger hole.

I would not weld on the housing.

Btw.: the fact that the hole is damaged tells me that the tie rod was loose for a while. Reminds me of my tractor that had 360 (!) degrees play in the steering when I got it.

 

[#40Fan]

I did this repair on a large Case tractor. I made the new bushing a press fit into the arm that attached the tie rod to the top of the knuckle. Luckily, the arm was easily removed which made the machining for the bushing to be inserted into the arm, easy to get done on the mill with a boring head.

Here is a horrible paint picture showing how I did it.

I made the bushing on my lathe with the correct taper for the tie rod.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Curious. I just did both oil seals on my BX23S that has 1625 hours on it and the tie rod ends were TIGHT. How many hours on your machine and do you turn your wheels,with a load in the bucket when NOT moving? That puts a lot of stress on the 'connection, might be one reason for the looseness ?

 

[Scm]

Curious. I just did both oil seals on my BX23S that has 1625 hours on it and the tie rod ends were TIGHT. How many hours on your machine and do you turn your wheels,with a load in the bucket when NOT moving? That puts a lot of stress on the 'connection, might be one reason for the looseness ?

I got 850 ish hours and I don't knowingly turn my wheels without moving

 

[Scm]

http://imgur.com/a/8RcxfWd

 

[#40Fan]

What does the bottom side look like?

 

[Lil Foot]

I would use #40Fan's method exactly.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

@Scm PM sent.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I got 850 ish hours and I don't knowingly turn my wheels without moving

thanks for the intel. The turning I learned from a late farmer( shit bucket/ Armstrong steering) had to replace both rims probably due to overloading the bucket day after day after day.....

 

[GreensvilleJay]

http://imgur.com/a/8RcxfWd

View attachment 171995

WOW !!! That's crazy BAD.......
Hopefully you CAN repair for less than cost of new parts.
If you do replace, check for any oil coming from the 'knuckle joint', if so oil seal should be replaced. You'll need medium sized 90* snap ring pliers, both internal AND external, if you remove at the 'joint' to replace the $60 oil seal, While not required, check to see if any oil is weeping from there. I assumed 'grit' got in,pushed the seal just enough to drip oil. enough to stain the garage floor, too much to park on pavement.

 

[Scm]

due to overloading the bucket day after day after day.....

That may be some of my problem. lately, I use my neighbors L2502 bucket (66"?) to move material faster. mostly wood chips

 

[TheOldHokie]

That may be some of my problem. lately, I use my neighbors L2502 bucket (66"?) to move material faster. mostly wood chips

My guess is your failure was caused by the ends coming loose.

Dan

 

[SDT]

Over the hours my hole where the tie rod end connects to the case (red circle) has wallowed out and it got to the point I keep breaking the stud. My tires will wiggle up to an inch before the steering wheel moves. I'm on my 4th tie rod end and just bought 4 more. I know the stud is tapered. Is it possible to ream out the hole and weld in a new bushing? Does anyone sell a tapered bushing? Have some made? Any ideas? These cases are now over $425 each

. View attachment 171985

Find a salvage front axle assembly.

 

[SDT]

My guess is your failure was caused by the ends coming loose.

Dan

Bingo.

It doesn't take much.

 

[Scm]

My guess is your failure was caused by the ends coming loose.

Dan

I always heard a light thud sound that did get more and more over the hours. Never thought much about it.

 

[Scm]

What does the bottom side look like?