Advice on Tractor Shed/Garage Design

[DenmanBC]

Not sure if this is the correct forum thread to post questions about tractor shed design but here goes.

For my new L3902 and implements I am considering using an existing level 22'x30' concrete pad to build a tractor and implement storage shed with extra space as a workshop. Longer (30") face will be entrance for the tractor. Planning fairly simple framing and truss gable roof.

Questions - 1) Along the 30' side, would two 12' doors or a single large custom door be better for function? ie: Getting tractor and implements in and out etc.

2) Assuming answer to # 1 is a large single door, does extra cost justify benefit? ie: Two standard 12' automatic doors easily fit along the 30' face, but I am wondering if a central pillar between the doors will limit mobility/function? Therefore, I am considering a single central large 18'-20' automatic door but this likely would require an engineered beam and increased custom door costs.

Thoughts on budget vs function for tractor shed design?

Thanks in advance

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

I like big doors for max. flexibility.... maybe something you have not considered but if your shop is not going to be heated would you consider a set of sliding doors?
your header design is a critical component.
would allow for max. opening width if your header design allows. Buy the track and hangers and build on site. Cheap, efficient, max. opening size. Drawback is drafty if you intend to heat. Build to any size you want by using hanger kit with metal tubing studs and tin covered?
one of many options.

 

[McMXi]

Not sure if this is the correct forum thread to post questions about tractor shed design but here goes.

For my new L3902 and implements I am considering using an existing level 22'x30' concrete pad to build a tractor and implement storage shed with extra space as a workshop. Longer (30") face will be entrance for the tractor. Planning fairly simple framing and truss gable roof.

Questions - 1) Along the 30' side, would two 12' doors or a single large custom door be better for function? ie: Getting tractor and implements in and out etc.

2) Assuming answer to # 1 is a large single door, does extra cost justify benefit? ie: Two standard 12' automatic doors easily fit along the 30' face, but I am wondering if a central pillar between the doors will limit mobility/function? Therefore, I am considering a single central large 18'-20' automatic door but this likely would require an engineered beam and increased custom door costs.

Thoughts on budget vs function for tractor shed design?

Thanks in advance

There are some variables that perhaps we don't know about but I'd opt for two 12ft wide doors. Cheaper and plenty of room to get in and out with any implement, unless you plan on driving in with a 12ft folding mower when it's unfolded. Also, if you decided to build a dividing wall that splits up the space into two 15ft x 11ft "rooms" you'd be set up with the two doors. You'll let less heat out with one door open too.

I've started building a 20ft x 24ft shed for firewood and tractors (temporary) until I get the bigger shed built. I bought a 10ft x 10ft roll-up steel door that I found on Craigslist that will be offset in the 20ft end wall.

 

[GrumpyFarmer]

Good day.

Great question/thread, this made me thing a bit.

I have modified existing barn, built one, and preparing to build a house and a barn.

To me I would start with:

0. Determine your uses including how much awning or porch or eve you want…that’s space to store under. IMO you will fill the space no matter how big. With that in mind I would politely encourage to consider adding racks along interior from the jump (may want even that you can put racks under on outside?), and make sure ceiling high enough to lift a pallet with your loader/forks…or not YMMv. If considering racks it will consume some docs inside want to know that now.

1. Fix your lot plan (layout of all infrastructure relative to herbal area you want the building, including prevailing wind/weather if it matters to you). This includes drives and utilities as well as primary wind direction if problem with rain wind or snow. This is important in terms of of if want air flow as well as if snow will be drifting against your door. If plan to have water or floor drains or electricity etc…where is all that coming in at…I would want to understand that in the lot plan and orientation of the building inclusions door locations.

2. Inside think deeply about door on long side or narrow end. It really depends on your uses but I think door location make a huge difference in your options.

3. Inside go back and forth against 0 thru 2 until happy.

4. Now is the time to make footprint bigger or roof taller and add a loft, lift or whatever. Continue the above until happy. No matter what you think, unless you are not tractorin’ hard enough it’s going get filled up really quick.

Those are my couple thoughts. Keep the rubber side down.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

option 3 )
a 10' tall x 14' wide door. Since it'll be on the 30' side of the shop , it'd 'look' proper, allows for EASY access in and out.standard size so won't empty the piggy bank.header is easy, 16' 2x10 x 3 or 4 pieces.

Get some 1/4 square paper and draw out the shop AND surrounding area. cut out a 'tractor' and drive it in and out of the shop. You'll quickly get a feel about door width. 12 could be tight, 16 too much, 14 should be juuuuust right.

 

[GeoHorn]

Not sure if this is the correct forum thread to post questions about tractor shed design but here goes.

For my new L3902 and implements I am considering using an existing level 22'x30' concrete pad to build a tractor and implement storage shed with extra space as a workshop. Longer (30") face will be entrance for the tractor. Planning fairly simple framing and truss gable roof.

Questions - 1) Along the 30' side, would two 12' doors or a single large custom door be better for function? ie: Getting tractor and implements in and out etc.

2) Assuming answer to # 1 is a large single door, does extra cost justify benefit? ie: Two standard 12' automatic doors easily fit along the 30' face, but I am wondering if a central pillar between the doors will limit mobility/function? Therefore, I am considering a single central large 18'-20' automatic door but this likely would require an engineered beam and increased custom door costs.

Thoughts on budget vs function for tractor shed design?

Thanks in advance

How tall are your eaves..? Do you prefer a sliding door..? or an overhead door..?

For my 50’ x 50’ x 18’ eave hangar I chose to design my own overhead door. Not because I wanted a particular door design…but because I’m cheap and couldn’t afford a commercially-available door.
*A Sweiss ovhd door …or a “Hydro-swing” overhead door….could not withstand being open in winds 10mph or more…. plus the operating systems cost about $10K plus shipping and require professional installation.
I used a $400 boat lift, some 2-1/4” pipe, and about $50 worth of galvanized 1/4” cable. The door itself is made of 6” rectangular steel tubing, with R-panel screwed to it. It can be stopped at any point in its travel…no brake req’d…. wind is no problem (it’s captured at each end within I-beam channel @ 14-inches above door-center…so weight of door firmly pivots and closes the door naturally) … Uses 3 separate parallel cables for reduncancy…(any one cable can support the door) ….counter-wound on the central spindle just like a boat lift…..top of door tilts inward suspended on trolly-tracks….now 26 yrs old and zero maintenance except an annual greasing of the pulleys.

The problem with sliding doors might be snow in the tracks (see you are in B.C. We visited Kelowna and Nanaimo a few years back for an airplane club-convention….truly lovely places.)

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Two 12' doors or one 16' door with linear opener/s
But not standard height, 9' or 10' tall!
And the best insulation value that you can afford.

If you can't pull a tractor and implements into a 12' wide door then you shouldn't be operating it.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I voted for 2 doors.

I tend to look at things from an “automotive” perspective.

In my personal case, I would worry about the 1 big door being blocked by a “down” tractor/car/trailer/RV/etc.

I would want the option to be able to work on something while not having to worry about it blocking the entrance when (not if…) you break something and are waiting on parts/tools/whatever, you can still utilize the second half.

Hanger doors would eliminate that, but what I don't like about “giant hanger” style doors is the heat loss when you have to open them in the winter……I do understand the need for them in some situations, especially aviation settings, but for my personal situation they/it would be less than ideal.


Do you have any specific needs/hobbies/interests that might be a factor? (i.e. is there ever a “hoist” or some such specialty item, in your future?)

 

[mikester]

If you are talking about roll up doors the prices on large commercial sized doors and commercial operators has gone insane

 

[The Evil Twin]

I voted 2 doors. You have to decide for yourself, but it would be a hard sell for the cost of a custom single. The price ain’t worth the beans. Now, or if / when you need something fixed or replaced. One massive door will probably mean a commercial service company.
We went 16x10. Readily available, standard hardware. KISS mentality.

 

[ken erickson]

I know my shed is different than what you're considering but thought this might be useful.

My open faced saltbox style shed that I had built back in 2021 is 27 foot wide. Basically 3 stalls wide. The front poles are spaced giving about 9 foot opening.

I wish I would have talked with the builder and discussed eliminating the right side center pole and replaced with a engineered header.

Eliminating that one pole would have really made a difference as far as angling an implement or tractor in for certain situations.

In your case I voted for one wide door, or if not, I would go with 2 doors but not equal in width. One single car width , 9 foot, and one 16 or 18 double wide door. I would get the doors as close to the corners as possible. I find that dead space corner that is formed if you bring the doors in from the corner a few feet end up being junk collectors.

 

[lynnmor]

I voted for the 2 doors. I would make them as wide as reasonably possible because you might want to move other things in and out, such as lawn mowers and small trailers. It is no fun to move the tractor whenever you want any of those smaller items.

 

[DenmanBC]

Good day.

Great question/thread, this made me thing a bit.

I have modified existing barn, built one, and preparing to build a house and a barn.

To me I would start with:

0. Determine your uses including how much awning or porch or eve you want…that’s space to store under. IMO you will fill the space no matter how big. With that in mind I would politely encourage to consider adding racks along interior from the jump (may want even that you can put racks under on outside?), and make sure ceiling high enough to lift a pallet with your loader/forks…or not YMMv. If considering racks it will consume some docs inside want to know that now.

1. Fix your lot plan (layout of all infrastructure relative to herbal area you want the building, including prevailing wind/weather if it matters to you). This includes drives and utilities as well as primary wind direction if problem with rain wind or snow. This is important in terms of of if want air flow as well as if snow will be drifting against your door. If plan to have water or floor drains or electricity etc…where is all that coming in at…I would want to understand that in the lot plan and orientation of the building inclusions door locations.

2. Inside think deeply about door on long side or narrow end. It really depends on your uses but I think door location make a huge difference in your options.

3. Inside go back and forth against 0 thru 2 until happy.

4. Now is the time to make footprint bigger or roof taller and add a loft, lift or whatever. Continue the above until happy. No matter what you think, unless you are not tractorin’ hard enough it’s going get filled up really quick.

Those are my couple thoughts. Keep the rubber side down.

Great advice. Thanks

 

[DenmanBC]

option 3 )
a 10' tall x 14' wide door. Since it'll be on the 30' side of the shop , it'd 'look' proper, allows for EASY access in and out.standard size so won't empty the piggy bank.header is easy, 16' 2x10 x 3 or 4 pieces.

Get some 1/4 square paper and draw out the shop AND surrounding area. cut out a 'tractor' and drive it in and out of the shop. You'll quickly get a feel about door width. 12 could be tight, 16 too much, 14 should be juuuuust right.

Good advice. Thanks

 

[skeets]

MHO,, what ever you decide to do always go at least 30% larger! Nature apores a vacuum or empty. space! Insulate it well, you cant have too much where you are, I wish I had done it when I had mine built. If you can run at least a 100 amp service and wire everything to the bloody max out lets every 6 feet , because if you dont, the out let is going to be 6 inches out of reach. Lighting, 4 foot LEDs are the way to go, and if you think you can get away with 8 put in 12! Like insulation you can never have to much. And drains dont forget some kind of drains, and maybe a head, that way you dont have to run to the house although water and sewage might be a problem there. I could go on and on but you get the idea. OH and one more this tractor shed, is never finished, NEVER!

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Since you have the slab already, do a full-size mock-up with your tractor and equipment. Use wood blocks to simulate the door jams and drive the tractor in and out with attachments.

Make sure you plan on adequate door height. Probably at least 10' clear with your 3902.

 

[DenmanBC]

Since you have the slab already, do a full-size mock-up with your tractor and equipment. Use wood blocks to simulate the door jams and drive the tractor in and out with attachments.

Make sure you plan on adequate door height. Probably at least 10' clear with your 3902.

I was planning 10’

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I was planning 10’

Just note 10' clear on the door means a minimum of 11' 3 (possibly more depending on exact door) on the ceiling height for springs and door track.
My house garage is 35' wide and 30' deep 10' 3 ceilings and 12x9 and 16x9 garage doors and they work great!

 

[Motion]

Do as you feel is best, starting a project like this because you have an existing slab might not be the best approach. I'd suggest designing the building /shop to have everything you desire. 22x30 has no economics of scale.