G2160 Drain cock plug broke, need to take out for coolant change?

[Rober88]

Hey all,

Never changed the coolant on my relative’s G2160 mower, and the drain cock plug just broke off. I want to flush the radiator with water before adding fresh coolant—will the broken plug cause any issues with that?

Thanks!

 

[#40Fan]

You can pull the lower radiator hose to get most of the coolant out, but I'd still see what it would take to fix that. Just in case it starts to leak later and you/him don't notice.

 

[lmichael]

I would definitely not leave that. If it's that bad that cooling system is likely in need of plenty of flushing

 

[neal boudreau]

that would be a lot of work but it is possible to drill it out . you have to drill it out exactly in center of bolt very carefully if there is room to get the drill in there etc. once you get most of it out sometimes a left handed drill bit will get the last bit out and it will just unscrew . make sure you dont break the drill bit off in there then you have to use a torch . if its not leaking maybe just leave it . rust is just a form of really slow welding right ?

 

[Rober88]

I would definitely not leave that. If it's that bad that cooling system is likely in need of plenty of flushing

Yeah I'm worried I can't do a proper flush if I don't take this out.

 

[Rober88]

that would be a lot of work but it is possible to drill it out . you have to drill it out exactly in center of bolt very carefully if there is room to get the drill in there etc. once you get most of it out sometimes a left handed drill bit will get the last bit out and it will just unscrew . make sure you dont break the drill bit off in there then you have to use a torch . if its not leaking maybe just leave it . rust is just a form of really slow welding right ?

HEHE.. it's not leaking. I prefer to just leave it, but I'm worried it won't be a proper flush unless I take it out. Think it's possible it'll cause problems if its not flushed properly?

I never extracted a bolt before.. but it seems easy enough:

How to remove broken bolts using screw extractors

#shorts

www.youtube.com

 

[lmichael]

I don't think it's a "bolt". On mine it's a drain petcock. So honestly if not properly repaired I think that thing is a nightmare waiting for a bad time to happen

 

[Rober88]

I don't think it's a "bolt". On mine it's a drain petcock. So honestly if not properly repaired I think that thing is a nightmare waiting for a bad time to happen

Oh I see, theres a hole in the middle. Wouldn't a screw extractor do the job?

https://messicks.com/parts/kubota/15841-73020

 

[Russell King]

Not to be a Debbie Downer but if you have never attempted to remove a broken off bolt before then that is NOT the place to start. But you can probably ask a competent friend to help you get it out.

The problems with that are it is in cast iron, the wall thickness you are working with is fairly thin and behind where you need to drill is a water passageway and then (probably) a cylinder wall. If you happen to drill into or through that wall then the block could become scrap.

The one thing going for removing that part is that it already has a hole in the center of it. But it may be soft material that wI’ll break before it begins to unscrew.

This is what that part looks like (probably).

I am assuming that it looked like this and you have broken off part of the winged section and part of the smaller threaded section.

If it didn’t look like that before, then please describe it in more detail or show us an example.

 

[lmichael]

It might. But, be careful. Judicious heat, penetrant, and just go slow

 

[number two]

If the coolant looks good,don't worry about a flush.
Just drain what you can and refill a 50/50 mix-distilled water preferably.
Don't overthink it!
Good Luck!

 

[Spam Bot]

Under no circumstances use an ez out. The cheap ones will break off quite easily, and then you have a bigger problem. If it were mine, I would talk to a machine shop to see if you could bring the machine to them and have them remove it. They have the knowledge and experience to do it successfully, and it will cost far less than a new engine. I have removed broken bolts before, but in this case, if it were mine, I would take it to a professional.

 

[lmichael]

People keep calling this a "bolt" it's not a bolt. It's a petcock. As for leaving it, VERY risky. Being a petcock there is a hole in the center and who knows the condition of the pintle?
I've never had great luck with EZ Outs but for all the times I've used them I've never broken one.
The petcock is brass. So, being softer it may be unlikely to snap the EZ Out.
but, having never broken one not sure

 

[Rober88]

The problems with that are it is in cast iron, the wall thickness you are working with is fairly thin and behind where you need to drill is a water passageway and then (probably) a cylinder wall. If you happen to drill into or through that wall then the block could become scrap.

The one thing going for removing that part is that it already has a hole in the center of it. But it may be soft material that wI’ll break before it begins to unscrew.

This is what that part looks like (probably).

I am assuming that it looked like this and you have broken off part of the winged section and part of the smaller threaded section.

If it didn’t look like that before, then please describe it in more detail or show us an example.

Ah boy, this does sound tricky
I linked to the part in my previous msg, not sure what material it is: https://messicks.com/parts/kubota/15841-73020

 

[Rober88]

Alright well, I'm pretty freaked out that I may mess this up with an ez out. I have no experience using them.
Appreciate all the advice.

Guess I'll just drain what coolant I can and put new 50/50 stuff in.

 

[Hugo Habicht]

There is a good bit of coolant left in the engine if you do not take that drain plug off. On my tractor it is a valve, I could imagine it was the same on yours and it broke off.

Maybe this helps: Link D722 drain valve repair

If your block is cast iron and the valve aluminium, like on mine, it is easy to drill out the remains and get the threaded pieces out with a matching tap.

 

[lmichael]

Alright well, I'm pretty freaked out that I may mess this up with an ez out. I have no experience using them.
Appreciate all the advice.

Guess I'll just drain what coolant I can and put new 50/50 stuff in.

That is not smart IMO. From the looks of your photo(s) it looks like the ONLY thing holding the pressure is rust. Meaning the cooling system was badly neglected. And if it lets loose that leak will be sudden and catastrophic. And in the worst place possible both from a cooling standpoint and visibility.
Thankfully even though mine had been somewhat neglected when I bought it, I was able to salvage it by CAREFULLY fully removing it from the block, and cleaning with Lime Away (the valve not the engine). Funny thing was even after removing it deposits were keeping the engine from draining (it only dribbled like it had enlarged prostate). So I had to get in there and knock out all the crap, then flushed really well with distilled, reinstalled the valve and filled with coolant. Luckily the radiator was in good shape.
Bottom line if that crud finally breaks through while someone is in the operator seat working the machine hard, they may not see the engine "dumping" coolant until the damage gets done.
Don't make a bad thing worse. Do the job correctly

 

[D2Cat]

That is not smart IMO. From the looks of your photo(s) it looks like the ONLY thing holding the pressure is rust. Meaning the cooling system was badly neglected. And if it lets loose that leak will be sudden and catastrophic. And in the worst place possible both from a cooling standpoint and visibility.
Thankfully even though mine had been somewhat neglected when I bought it, I was able to salvage it by CAREFULLY fully removing it from the block, and cleaning with Lime Away (the valve not the engine). Funny thing was even after removing it deposits were keeping the engine from draining (it only dribbled like it had enlarged prostate). So I had to get in there and knock out all the crap, then flushed really well with distilled, reinstalled the valve and filled with coolant. Luckily the radiator was in good shape.
Bottom line if that crud finally breaks through while someone is in the operator seat working the machine hard, they may not see the engine "dumping" coolant until the damage gets done.
Don't make a bad thing worse. Do the job correctly

Following this advise may save a friendship also. If the remainder is left in, and at some point springs a leak it may cook the engine before the leak is noticed.

 

[Rober88]

That is not smart IMO. From the looks of your photo(s) it looks like the ONLY thing holding the pressure is rust. Meaning the cooling system was badly neglected. And if it lets loose that leak will be sudden and catastrophic. And in the worst place possible both from a cooling standpoint and visibility.
Thankfully even though mine had been somewhat neglected when I bought it, I was able to salvage it by CAREFULLY fully removing it from the block, and cleaning with Lime Away (the valve not the engine). Funny thing was even after removing it deposits were keeping the engine from draining (it only dribbled like it had enlarged prostate). So I had to get in there and knock out all the crap, then flushed really well with distilled, reinstalled the valve and filled with coolant. Luckily the radiator was in good shape.
Bottom line if that crud finally breaks through while someone is in the operator seat working the machine hard, they may not see the engine "dumping" coolant until the damage gets done.
Don't make a bad thing worse. Do the job correctly

I'm pretty sure it has been like this for like 10 years. When I touch the area it is moist. I remember topping the coolant slightly last summer and it was fine.

But yeah, if the pressure breaks through the rust then tons of damage will happen.

Feels like I'm damned if I try to fix it and damned if I don't, haha!

I can't take the mower to a shop to drill it as I don't have a trailer or pickup to tow it. I have an in-law that is pretty handy with engines, maybe I can convince him to try.

 

[sitric]

As a retired pump service/repairman, I have repaired hundreds of broken off, stripped brass fittings in cast. Not knowing what exact thread size this is, being a Japanese product, I would start with a Q drill bit and drill out the center hole. If this is close to the size of the fitting, a readily available 1/8" npt taper tap could then be used to tap it for a readily available fitting. If the fitting appears to be much larger, a 7/16" drill bit could then be used and tapped with a 1/4" npt tap for the also readily available 1/4" drain fitting. Trying easy outs is usually a waste of time and can actually make the repair more difficult. All the above mentioned tools are readily available at most hardware stores, and relatively inexpensive.