Last year I bought a M5140 and implements and I'm still trying to make sure I operate them correctly. I have a Land Pride RCR 1872 6' mower and I see in the instructions about leveling and tail wheel adjustment and such but I'm wondering should the tail wheel always be in firm contact with the ground when mowing? When I mow the tail wheel is usually alternating between floating above the ground a little and being in contact. Should I adjust the wheel height so it is always riding hard on the ground thereby supporting the tail of the mower when mowing? I guess I've been looking at it more as a "stop" that keeps the mower from getting too close to the ground. Any pointers are appreciated. Thanks.
should mower tailwheel always contact ground?
- Thread starter longleaf1
- Start date
TripleR
Active member
Equipment
BX2200, BX2660, L5740 HSTC, M8540HDC and some other tractors and equipment
There are always exceptions, but in normal operations your tail wheel will be in firm contact in order to be adjusted properly front to back and to allow it to follow the contour of the ground.
I don't know what page your adjustments are, but on my RCR2672 it is P14
Leveling Procedure
There are 4 primary adjustments that should be made prior to actual field operations:
• Deck leveling from left to right
• Tractor top link length
• Tractor lower link height
• Tailwheel height
Proper adjustment of each of these items will provide for higher efficiency, improved cutting performance and longer blade life. The following tools will be needed:
• Pliable tape measure
• Carpenters level
• 3/4” Open end or hex end wrench or socket set
• Protective gloves
I don't know what page your adjustments are, but on my RCR2672 it is P14
Leveling Procedure
There are 4 primary adjustments that should be made prior to actual field operations:
• Deck leveling from left to right
• Tractor top link length
• Tractor lower link height
• Tailwheel height
Proper adjustment of each of these items will provide for higher efficiency, improved cutting performance and longer blade life. The following tools will be needed:
• Pliable tape measure
• Carpenters level
• 3/4” Open end or hex end wrench or socket set
• Protective gloves
It also depends on how close you want/need to mow. My ground is so bumpy that I have an extreme amount of slack in the my top link. So much that when I raise it as far as it will go, the tail wheel is only about 6" off the ground... I've even mowed some with the top link totally disconnected... But I quit doing that since it was such a pain to get off and reconnect in order to move from one field to another....
TripleR
Active member
Equipment
BX2200, BX2660, L5740 HSTC, M8540HDC and some other tractors and equipment
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Here is the instructions from the manual on my cutter. Step 8 would allow the tail wheel to be in contact with the ground at all times during normal operation (except when the lift function was all the way up).
I think that all of them all have about the same instructions:
1. Park the tractor and cutter on level ground.
2. Using the 3-point hitch control lever, position the front of the cutter with the side skids 1” less off the ground than desired cut height. For example, for a 3” cut, position the skids 2” from the ground. Set the 3-point control lever stop at this position to maintain this height when raising and lowering the cutter.
3. Shut down the tractor and remove the key.
4. Adjust the cutter deck front to rear by extending or retracting the 3-point top link. Always set front of deck 3/4” lower than rear for best performance.
5. Level the cutter side to side by manipulating one lower lift arm length. On most tractors, at least one of the lift arms is designed to allow for manipulation of its length. Shortening or extending will allow for deck leveling from side to side.
6. Securely block up the cutter at this height.
7. Remove the bolts securing the tail wheel beam in position and allow the tail wheel to rest at ground level. Align tail wheel beam between nearest sets of holes in beam support brackets and reinstall support bolts on each side of beam. Tighten all bolts and nuts.
8. Extend the tractor’s top 3-point link so that when lifting the cutter, the front of the deck will raise 2 to 2½” before the tail wheel leaves the ground. This will allow the cutter to follow the contour of uneven terrain.
I think that all of them all have about the same instructions:
1. Park the tractor and cutter on level ground.
2. Using the 3-point hitch control lever, position the front of the cutter with the side skids 1” less off the ground than desired cut height. For example, for a 3” cut, position the skids 2” from the ground. Set the 3-point control lever stop at this position to maintain this height when raising and lowering the cutter.
3. Shut down the tractor and remove the key.
4. Adjust the cutter deck front to rear by extending or retracting the 3-point top link. Always set front of deck 3/4” lower than rear for best performance.
5. Level the cutter side to side by manipulating one lower lift arm length. On most tractors, at least one of the lift arms is designed to allow for manipulation of its length. Shortening or extending will allow for deck leveling from side to side.
6. Securely block up the cutter at this height.
7. Remove the bolts securing the tail wheel beam in position and allow the tail wheel to rest at ground level. Align tail wheel beam between nearest sets of holes in beam support brackets and reinstall support bolts on each side of beam. Tighten all bolts and nuts.
8. Extend the tractor’s top 3-point link so that when lifting the cutter, the front of the deck will raise 2 to 2½” before the tail wheel leaves the ground. This will allow the cutter to follow the contour of uneven terrain.
TripleR
Active member
Equipment
BX2200, BX2660, L5740 HSTC, M8540HDC and some other tractors and equipment
Pretty much spot on except on LP and some others:
Top Center Link Length Adjustment
Refer to Figure 2-2:
1. Lower cutter deck to the nominal cutting height.
2. Adjust length of tractor’s 3-point top center link such that the top and bottom hitch pins are aligned vertically with each other. The pivot hitch should be at about a 45 degree angle when adjusted correctly.
3. Lock center link in this position.
This will have the front of the deck lifting a lot before the tail wheel leaves the ground and at full lift on many the tail wheel will be only a few inches off the ground.
I have placed a short piece of steel 1/2" thick by 3" w x 8" long between top link (of Quick Hitch) and top connection of mower. Holes near each end for the pins. Then, most of the time there is slack in that top link connection. When going over a hump it straightens out and leaves the rear tail wheel still on the ground. When going thru a dip the slack is even more and no compression is put on the top connection. The object is to free that top connection of any work, except when I really need to lift the whole mower up.
I know alot of people who will run the bush hog without the top link hooked up at all which allows for a floating deck, or so I hear.
We've done that for years with our old L3750. Works great!
Tail wheel always on the ground.
If you have multiple positions on your tractor to set your top-link (typically 3 positions), use the bottom hole to get the most lift when you raise your deck up. Keep plenty of slack on the top-link as well. Of course a TNT helps quite a bit.