the problem I've seen, watching videos and downloading the manuals, is that the PTO HAS to be disconnected BEFORE you raise the 3PH up high enough to dump. They 'all' ,seem to be made the same, just different paint.
Hydraulic powered pump for concrete mixer
- Thread starter Lowlysubaruguy
- Start date
Im glad I posted here lots of great information. I’ll tinker with it over the weekend.
I prefer it to be front loader mounted the rear three point hook up is lacking in many ways not only do I not have great control when lining up and dumping the concrete I will need to ad one more auxiliary hydraulic function and come up with a cylinder thats long enough to achieve a full dump while being short enough to allow the bucket to tilt up enough for a full load of concrete. I know I can control the dump better with the loader than the rear three point and I wont get tractor neck from looking backwards for long periods.
Here is something on ebay I asked the seller about output RPMS with only 8 GPM flow rates. He stated the output RPMS would be 300 RPMs which in reality may be just fine for this applications this is a simple solution if I can in fact make a drive coupler to work beween the motor and the input shaft of the mixer. From what I remember I really didnt need ,much more than idle to spin that drum even full. And I may find this to be a good RPM range and keep me out of regen.
Take a look at this and throw out any concerns you might have.
I prefer it to be front loader mounted the rear three point hook up is lacking in many ways not only do I not have great control when lining up and dumping the concrete I will need to ad one more auxiliary hydraulic function and come up with a cylinder thats long enough to achieve a full dump while being short enough to allow the bucket to tilt up enough for a full load of concrete. I know I can control the dump better with the loader than the rear three point and I wont get tractor neck from looking backwards for long periods.
Here is something on ebay I asked the seller about output RPMS with only 8 GPM flow rates. He stated the output RPMS would be 300 RPMs which in reality may be just fine for this applications this is a simple solution if I can in fact make a drive coupler to work beween the motor and the input shaft of the mixer. From what I remember I really didnt need ,much more than idle to spin that drum even full. And I may find this to be a good RPM range and keep me out of regen.
Take a look at this and throw out any concerns you might have.
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It’s been a long time but every part of it was just a head ache not enough lift for a full dump maybe a much larger taller tractor might have a little more height here ? even if my top cylinder was able to get there but I actually think the angles weird regardless. And we did have to kill the PTO to dump makes the concrete sluggish to come out since it’s not spinning. Im hoping to mount this on the loader and spin it with hydraulics. Solves all of it.
My concern is lack of any real hydrauluc specifications.
Ask the seller what the displacement of the motor is.
It appears the only additional thing you would need is a PTO shaft of the proper length.
You keep upping the ante and moving the goal posts. I am moving more into the @hagrid camp - "the juice is not worth the squeeze".
But its your money not mine. If it were mine I would slap a 3-3.5 CID motor on the mixer, weld/bolt the mixer to a cheap SSQA adapter plate, and move on.
Dan
Thanks I’ll work this out in my head.
Thats what i came up with years ago but my concrete needs here were pretty much done at that point. simple solution is to just bolt a gas engine on it.
Theres a towable mixer with a chute that mixes quite a bit at one time for about what all this will run me by the time I get it right. It’s like throwing more money at a broken car there’s a point where you should have stopped. I mixed about 12 maybe 16 bags with this thing and even if it had worked perfectly it was still hand loading concrete i may have concrete delivered on the big projects ahead. The fence posts there easy enough one or two bags at a time in a wheelbarrow. The real push here is i have a shipping container this one time I won’t be able to get anything this size there in the future.
I’m old enough now make enough money i should pay to have most of this done but im always dissatisfied with the quality of there work.
It’s funny i wasnt even thinking about taking this until i saw it last week. It’s migrated to the back corner. Has two pallets of bricks in front of it.
Thought id update where I am. I suffer from in for a penny in for a pound syndrome. I am in that cement mixer enough money to throw more at it. I have been digging for solutions. I found a hydraulic motor made by dalton first there is no perfect GPM to RPM motor theres a couple that were closer than what I ordered but big money. I ordered one thats 880 RPMs at 13 GPM flow and 2300 PSI. Its reversible which isnt a big plus or minus but I found a cheap pump that wasnt quite as close a fit as this for less money but it is one direction and has two weird inlet and outlet fittings. i could see me racking up $100 in fittings to get it to work then screw it up by accidentally hitting the wrong button on my controls. My logic which may prove a failure is the RPMs I will really need will be around 200 to 350 I dont tink I ever ran the engine RPMs over 1600 when i used it last. So maybe I theres enough flow under 2000 RPMs to get me in the range I want and also keep it out of regen this tractor likes to go into regen under 1500 RPMS any way.
I bought a harbor freight 3 point quick attach hitch adapter and ordered a SSQA weld on plate that I will bolt or weld onto this. It looks like i need to make a couple bushings for the 3 point attachment it is made for fairly large pins I think the KKubota dealer locally has a rack of various sizes to there might be something ready to go for this. It will most likely never be used for anything but this so Im not worried about the low quality lock pins if it works I can just weld it all together pins latches etc. All in all after the hoses and couplers are worked out I’ll be In it around $700 Which if it works great if not well ive lost more money in the stock market in less time any way. I will need to fabricate a coupler but Im a so so machinist but it looks like making a bracket for the motor will not be very involved.
it will be a bit its cold im busy with work and parts are slow coming I bet.
I bought a harbor freight 3 point quick attach hitch adapter and ordered a SSQA weld on plate that I will bolt or weld onto this. It looks like i need to make a couple bushings for the 3 point attachment it is made for fairly large pins I think the KKubota dealer locally has a rack of various sizes to there might be something ready to go for this. It will most likely never be used for anything but this so Im not worried about the low quality lock pins if it works I can just weld it all together pins latches etc. All in all after the hoses and couplers are worked out I’ll be In it around $700 Which if it works great if not well ive lost more money in the stock market in less time any way. I will need to fabricate a coupler but Im a so so machinist but it looks like making a bracket for the motor will not be very involved.
it will be a bit its cold im busy with work and parts are slow coming I bet.
Easy arithmetic
2600 engine RPM = 500 motor RPM
2200 engine RPM = 423 motor RPM
1800 engine RPM = 346 motor RPM
1400 engine RPM = 270 motor RPM
1000 engine RPM = 192 motor RPM
You can buy a cast aluminum foot mount for most motors for ~$40 dollars
Dan
Thats about what i came up with to.
If those specs hold true it should be just right I’ll be able to slow that drum down enough for a decent pour without going into regen but enough RPMS left to mix at a higher speed. Really it doesn’t need to spin very fast don’t want it ripping itself off the tractor.
It’s a front or face mounted pump i will need to bore a hole in the SSQA plate for it anyway if if I get it right I’ll just bolt through the plate into the motors flange. Make my drive coupler with a couple allen screws as lock screws so I can slide it a little if needed or just let it float on the shaft and keyway maybe but i may want a tight fit on the motor. The mixer coupler was a loose fit with a bolt for a shear pin. So it wont be a major machining event i found a perfect piece of scrap steel for it today. Would have just made brackets for the loader arms but I bought a 1/2” SSQA plate for $150 delivered isn't worth the efforts to make my own.
I spent a lot of time finding this motor there’s just not much that’s works with the low GPM flow of this tractor. You move up to 20 GPM and there’s ones with PTO splines and cheap prices. Which would be nice i could use the driveline end with the decoupler but it’s fine. I will know in a few weeks.
I have done many similar conversions and speak from considerable real world experience..
You will be way ahead mounting the motor directly on the input shaft of the mixer. Trying to use the SSQA plate is just more work and introduces unnecessary complications.
Dan
Hadnt thought about that approach but it probably won’t be any more complex to do that.
I have made this suggestjon multiple times and it is brutally simple.
Use an off the shelf shaft coupler to connect the output shaft on the motor to the input shaft on the mixer. Add a torque arm (chain, solid bar, etc) to the motor and you are done. There are hundreds of thousands of PTO pumps and motors running like that.
Dan
I have to call and get bolt pattern specs on the motor as there not listed but heres two pictures, something like this if i can find them in the right sizes ? Or build my own. Theres a solid coupler that might be the exact sizes but I have to measure the mixer today it is slightly larger than 1” however the couplers simple enough for me to make. The mixer has a flange with two bolt holes already maybe I will get lucky and the mount will mate up to it and the motor. Of which this un complicates things a lot.
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You really are set on over complicating this.
The motors are like pumps and typically SAE standard 2 and 4 bolt patterns. If its two bolt it is most likely a SAE A size flange. There will be no such standard on the mixer.
For $35 an off the shelf chain coupler will connect the two different shafts. Add a couple chains for added support and a torque arm and you are essentially done. Less than an hour and no machine work.
Dan
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