Gutter drain for the house. I did 4x4x6’ it is all sandy soil drains excellent, should be good for my use case for many years. If poor drainage like clay I wouldn’t know what to recommend
I did a French drain on the front apron of my shop right after I finished building, but put the French drain in the wrongest place possible and also used cheap fabric. I’m paying for those mistakes now. The perf pipe is full of mud, the fabric didn’t stop a single weed/tree root from sprouting, and the gravel is full of silt. The gutters are too small (4”) so most of the water shoots right over it in a heavy rain. That will be the next upgrade to 6” gutters and better guards to trap more water and get it away from the doors.
When I first looked at the pics, I was wondering why all the buildup with the lumber. Then I saw some of the lumber was actually a concrete curb. Are they really just gonna back the RV over that? Better not be a trailer involved. That’s a homeowner claim waiting to happen when someone trips on the curb and face plants into the rail fence. Someone didn’t plan that mod very well. I get a lot of heartburn when someone asks me to do something that has obvious hazards. I guess it’s too many years of safety training for things I learned the hard way as a kid that makes me notice things like that.
Haven’t had that problem. I mix pretty rich, but not so much as to foul the plug. My saw and power head for all my Trimmer Plus attachments and the Husqvarna blower thank me.
Been running Stihl oil in my saws and blower for years. Not a trace of carbon on the screens. Always run premium gas and the correct mixture. Never let them sit and idle for any length of time, and always run them full throttle when cutting.
LOL.
If your going to mix rich, STIHL oil probably isn't the best oil to use. It's engineered for their engines (chainsaws, blowers, Kombi-heads) to be run flat out at the recommended mix ratio, any more oil or less heat and things can go sideways, which is why a lot of people hate STIHL oil--they're using it or the equipment improperly. When used as designed STIHL oil is good stuff.
She’s brilliant. I’ve watched her videos for years.
Oh, I knew you wouldn’t have left it that way without some pretty specific (if not errant) marching orders. That’s why it puzzled me.LOL.
Yep. They went from a travel trailer to an RV. The "design" was from the homeowner. He intends on putting the duals (one side) on the pad and the other set of duals on his cribbing....whatever. I only did the digging that they specifically asked for.
I tried to convince him that the curbing should be removed. He didn't want to do that.
I think we’re in agreement. I don’t have any Stihl equipment. Not because I don’t like it, I just don’t like the price. The primary manufacture of MANY brands is with pure Chinesium and assembled in Mexico with different plastic to cover up the business bits and call it a different brand. Sadly, that’s the new age corporate way driven by bottom line thinking. I have personally taken parts from one brand of saw and put them on another. Just look up a common replacement part and see how many different brands and models the part is used for. It’s mind boggling. MOST small engines come from China (luckily not all for those willing to pay for it). I would call myself a casual user, and simply can’t justify the cost of Stihl (or Husqvarna saws for that matter) equipment for home use. I would probably think differently with a business need. But typically I can buy four Poulan saws for the price of one Stihl of similar size and rating. It’s a no brainer to me if it lasts 10 years and then still dies from the same issue as it’s much more expensive competitors, namely fuel related failures. I can usually resuscitate one a few times after fuel problems and limp one for a while after I manage to overheat it. I’ve got a little know-how from my high school years and growing up on a farm where we were so poor we couldn’t even pay attention. I’ve blown them to bits (literally). But Ive never stopped one up. I got my previous Poulan saw so hot it melted the housing and the pull cord jammed. The one before that (15 years ago) I seized it because of fuel that was too lean for the way I tend to run them, which is why I kinda ignore the stickers that say 50:1 and mix everything around 40:1. If I foul a plug, same trick Chickanic did with the baffles works for a spark plug. I have no problem running them WFO if I can replace them quickly with a lot less cost.
STIHL oil is high quality--and likely overpriced, but since I run mostly STIHL stuff....
That's why you buy a new snow "something" every year, so your chances of having to use it are minimized.
I you are right about the recent decline in Husqvarna quality. All of my Husky stuff is pre Chinese mfg. except for the 550XP Mark II I bought in 2023. All except the 550XP are still serving me well after many years. I still run a 359 a lot. And my 346XP lasted 14 years with heavy usage before it bit the dust. The 550XP failed with main bearing seize-up after a year. To their credit Husqvarna replaced the saw under warranty with a upgraded (supposedly) brand new saw which has only a year plus on it now.
You bought a chain saw in 1923!!!
I didn't even know they made them back then and I'm glad to hear you are still running it. I hope I can do that when I'm over 100 years old.
