Paint Question

[MahalKo]

My local dealer is discouraging me from attempting the "rattle can Paint job" described on this site. They claim I will not be happy with the results. They suggest sandblasting and priming, and then having the paint sprayed on professionally. I can get a quart of factory orange#1 for $25. The factory spray cans are $12.00 each and I'll need at least six cans ($72).

However, I am somewhat leary about handing my sheet metal over to a sandblaster. What are the risks?

I'm leaning toward stripping the paint myself to save $$ to have the new paint applied by a pro. Question: Is there a good chemical paint remover out there that is worth the money?

I will hand/orbital sand if I must, but I'm not sure where to start.

Any advice? I am working on a 1985 B6100 DT

 

[bruceatlam]

It's a tractor!!! If you want a museum piece, then by all means, get it professionally cleaned up and painted. But, if you plan to use it regularly, spray cans over the existing finish will really improve the looks and you'll not feel bad the first time you scratch it up --- just get out your spray can and touch it up.

How you paint it all depends on what you're going to use it for and, I guess, on how much money you want to invest/dump into it.

 

[MahalKo]

It's a tractor!!! If you want a museum piece, then by all means, get it professionally cleaned up and painted. But, if you plan to use it regularly, spray cans over the existing finish will really improve the looks and you'll not feel bad the first time you scratch it up --- just get out your spray can and touch it up.

How you paint it all depends on what you're going to use it for and, I guess, on how much money you want to invest/dump into it.

I agree. However, it seems like I can get it professionally painted for about the same price as the rattle can job. That is, if I strip the old paint and apply the primer myself.

My local Kubota Dealer/parts supplier is telling me sandblasting is the only way to go. (They told me the rotary sander will be futile. Plus I don't own one, so I'd have to buy one to try it). I fear that sandblasting could potentially damage my sheet metal--which is in good shape with very little rust.

Have you (or anyone else) used a chemical paint remover with any success?

 

[SockPuppet]

I've been working on my B8200 since October. I stripped most of the sheetmetal with Jasco stripper and sanded off anything that wouldn't strip. It's a messy, time consuming job and you need a well ventilated work area. I had no choice as a PO had painted the tractor with a poor quality paint over a poorly prepared surface. If I had been dealing with the factory finish, I would have treated it as primer and sanded and cleaned up only. Be aware that stripping or blasting will reveal previous repair work that will have to be redone, even if it was fine beforehand.

I think it depends on what you're after. A museum quality job will take months or even years and require more new pieces ($$) than you think. If you have a good paint job that just needs a cleanup, a sanding and rattle can finish will work fine. Even if you get runs or orangepeel, you can wet sand the surface and polish it up as long as you lay enough paint on it. With that said, no matter how or who applies the paint, the final job will only be as good as the prep under it.

I've been restoring and painting cars for years and I have all the equipment and a good shop. After almost 4 months, I'm only now getting to the reassembly part of the job. And did I mention that this is a 'working tractor' job?

Just be careful you don't bite off more than you can chew and keep your final goal in mind so you know when to say "good enough".

 

[MahalKo]

[/QUOTE]Just be careful you don't bite off more than you can chew and keep your final goal in mind so you know when to say "good enough".[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the helpful advice.
My project is a "working tractor" endeavor as well. I never expressed a “Museum Piece” as a final goal.

My goal is to achieve a durable paint job that also looks good. It appears as though the previous owner of my tractor actually brush painted it a few years ago. I do not know what kind of paint was used. Hopefully it will strip well, so I get down to the factory under coat and beyond….
I plan to degrease and clean the engine and chassis myself, and then rattle can paint it with factory Kubota Blue. I’ll decide on what to do with the sheet metal (orange parts) when the time comes.
I’m just saying my dealer will sell me a quart of Kubota Orange #1 for $25. If the body shop will paint it for $60, that’s less than $20 more than a rattle can job. (Six cans @$12 per can = $72).

I will attempt to save as much money as possible by doing a lot of the cleaning and surface preparation labor myself. Again, I’m not sure why the “Museum Piece” comment was made. I didn’t say I was restoring a museum piece.

Thanks…

 

[SockPuppet]

Again, I’m not sure why the “Museum Piece” comment was made. I didn’t say I was restoring a museum piece.

Thanks…

I made the comment because many folks see pictures on redone tractors online and think it's easy to get them looking that good. I was only pointing out that it isn't easy to go that far.

It's also easy to tell someone to sandblast or strip. I was only trying to tell you that you may find unexpected surprises under that paint. This will be especially true if someone painted it with a brush.

Since you have your eyes open , you should have no problem.

Good luck with your project.

 

[John C]

I am currently in the process of painting my B7100, I started out by removing the sheet metal and pressure washing everything using a good degreaser to soften up the dirt and grease. I then without any prep other than masking things that I didn't want to paint such as fuel tank, brake pedals etc. sprayed the frame with the Kubota Blue which I got from my local dealer (because you can't find it anywhere else) and yes it's 12.95 per can. For the sheet metal I went to Tractor Supply and got the Kubota Orange, Valspar Brand I think, for less than half the price I paid for the blue. I agree with Bruceatlam that paying for a professional prep and paint job would be a total waste of money unless your going to keep it in the garage and only take it out to pull floats in parades. A tractor that is used as a tractor will get scratched up the first time you take it into the field. My guess is that the dealer is trying to drum up some business. As far as chemical strippers go I'd stay as far away from them as I could, most of them contain some corrosive elements that if not completely neutralized will come back to haunt you a few months or weeks after yuor new paint is applied. Most tractors that need painting dont need a lot of prep because the paint is already deglossed and after a good cleaning will hold new paint satisfactorally. I have used scotchbrite pads to scuff the finnish if it's got any gloss to it.

 

[MahalKo]

Here are some "before"photos. I live in Ohio, so I've been stiffled by the relentless cold. I have been ordering parts including a ROPS, new headlights, new logos and decals, etc. I will remove the after market fog lights and repaint with factory Orange#1 and Kubota Blue.

I am still in the planning phase of this restoration.
However, I have been using the machine to plow snow http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qnKMzkIGzwk&feature=related

see photos below. Any advice is welcomed.

 

[John C]

From your photos it appears that your tractors paint is in somewhat better condition than mine (still has somewhat of a glossy appearance). Decals seem to be in similar condition to mine. I already got the decals, new headlights, and emblems they cost me just under $200 at my local dealer. I noticed the new seat in your photos. Does the seat cover just fit over the seat pan? My pan is solid but the cover is completely shot! I've been hesitant to order a new seat because of price. My project has also been hampered by the cold and snow but hope to be able to spray sheet metal this weekend.

 

[traildust]

If it were me, I would remove the brush applied paint and buy the quart for $25.

Sure it's just a tractor but there are threads on other forums with topics of "what is the best wax".


Scott

 

[MahalKo]

I noticed the new seat in your photos. Does the seat cover just fit over the seat pan? My pan is solid but the cover is completely shot! I've been hesitant to order a new seat because of price.

From what I've been told, the seat cover is NOT available as a seperate part. I felt the $90 for the seat was a fair price--given the cost of after market seats~$70.00--In fact, I was considering buying two (factory) seats, just in case. Although, this tractor will be garage kept so I'm hoping the seat will hold up. This tractor will be primarily used to prepare 4 small food plots (1/2 acre each) for bow hunting deer in SE Ohio.

Post some photos of your B7100. -FR

 

[John C]

Alas, my weekend plans were snowed upon as my soon to be son-in-law wanted to go look at a house he and my daughter hope to buy right smack in the middle of the morning, and my wife reminded me of a friend of her's wedding Saturday afternoon! Then Church on Sunday and Valentines Day finished me off!

 

[smokinhart]

Having done the stripper (paint prep) - sand blasting - complete sand down by hand - scuff pads.........for the past 30 years of tractor refurbs..... I just this evening bit the bullet and the B6100 refurb is headed to the powdercoat oven. One of my customers recently installed an oven big enough to do a truck if you wanted. I have had good luck with the Valspar premium paint from TSC and other farm stores. Even better with factory paints. Just made a WA decision to try this method. He gave me an estimate of 130 dollars for the sandblasting, steam cleaning and deglazing, powder coat material and baking. I figured I would have 5 - 8 hours in prep alone besides the $50+ in product and masking. My time may not be worth much but I am worth less..... Gee thats probably a bad motto. Ok, Ok. I'll post some pics and thoughts after I see the completed job. You guys are exactly right though, if its a working tractor 20- 30 years old, any fresh clothing is appreciated by the old bull. My dad always said it only has to look good from the road, It's what work it can do that I care about.

 

[Mr. K]

We are using a picture of smokin's B6000 he restored as our lead picture on our lead article at the moment. Man knows how to prep and paint. A few other pics in his album here:

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/album.php?u=867

Worth a look.

 

[traildust]

As always, Mr.K is correct, Smokin's work is above par. That tractor is show worthy for sure. I think it would be sad not to bring it to events for the public to see. Hard work and perseverance pays off.

Great job Somkin!

Scott

 

[smokinhart]

We are using a picture of smokin's B6000 he restored as our lead picture on our lead article at the moment. Man knows how to prep and paint. A few other pics in his album here:

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/album.php?u=867

Worth a look.

Gee I am blushing, Thanks Mr K, Trail dust! I was happy with the b6000 final product. It made an impression on my nephew so much that he had to buy it and keep in in the family. Had 3 people wrestling me for it when it sold. The one with the badge won. Det. Lt. Ade has in under lock and key now.

I'll post up a complete build storyboard all at one time on the B6100d-p I am building now. We are going full tilt with frame paint, powder coated sheet metal, full hydro steering, custom fabbed loader frame and ARK 515 loader, 3 circuit hydraulics and if time and energy allow a grapple bucket attachment. Been in the shed since October and wishing for some good weather to start the outside projects.

By the way, I have the XO Rust paint codes for the original Blue/Gray on the early B series. I'll dig it out and post that to. Seems that Kubota dealers don't always carry that color.

 

[traildust]

Gee I am blushing, Thanks Mr K, Trail dust! I was happy with the b6000 final product. It made an impression on my nephew so much that he had to buy it and keep in in the family. Had 3 people wrestling me for it when it sold. The one with the badge won. Det. Lt. Ade has in under lock and key now.

I'll post up a complete build storyboard all at one time on the B6100d-p I am building now. We are going full tilt with frame paint, powder coated sheet metal, full hydro steering, custom fabbed loader frame and ARK 515 loader, 3 circuit hydraulics and if time and energy allow a grapple bucket attachment. Been in the shed since October and wishing for some good weather to start the outside projects.

By the way, I have the XO Rust paint codes for the original Blue/Gray on the early B series. I'll dig it out and post that to. Seems that Kubota dealers don't always carry that color.

Smokin,
When I was oh so much younger and used to go to the county fair they always had the area of restored tractors and various farm machines. I would stand there for hours looking at those things and loved every minute of it. Seeing what you are doing brings back those memories.

I am looking forward to the storyboard you are making for the tractor build. I can't wait to see it!

You do great work and should be proud of what you are doing.

Scott

 

[John C]

Finally managed to get my sheet metal painted this past weekend, was pleasantly surprised by the outcome. finnish turned out much more showroom like than I had anticipated. does anybody know how long I should let the paint cure before I attempt to apply decals?

 

[handyman]

Good looking tractor dont know if you thought of it. Kubota has a safety program on the rops and seat belt. I have a b7100 went to their site put in model and serial number under safety button and susposingly the rops is only going to cost 148 dollars plus shiping to dealer of my choice. I will see when I get the quote. Good luck on paint job I would suggest if you sandblast it to make sure you clean it good before you paint it to get all the little grains of sand off and not paint over them.handy

 

[traildust]

I made a post and it was going WAY off topic. I have created a new thread and hince delated my post.

The thread on ROPS safety can be found here.

Scott