I have a BX25D with a BT601 backhoe. I was digging up some stumps today and it was hard going. I'm digging around the stump as much as possible and a couple of times got the sawzall out to cut a few roots. My question is, how far can you push the hydraulics before you damage something. More than once I found a root that was not going to break. I would hook the root and tug a little. The front end would lift up a bit or the leveling legs would slide. It was obvious that the backhoe was not going to win so I backed off and kept nibbling away around it. Question is, how far is too far? Not sure how much I can push the hydraulics, and I really don't want to damage anything.
How far to push the hydraulics
- Thread starter stevewhitts
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Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
There is a pressure relief valve involved so it will never provide more forces than what the tractor was designed for.
The way you are using it sounds very logical and correct. You want to move “stuff” not the tractor. So if the tractor starts to move stop the movement. You can probably damage the tractor if you want to but you seem to understand your tractor’s limits already. Just remember that it is a small utility tractor, not an excavator and not a bulldozer. Take small bites with the backhoe and still get the job done, just longer time than an excavator would take.
The way you are using it sounds very logical and correct. You want to move “stuff” not the tractor. So if the tractor starts to move stop the movement. You can probably damage the tractor if you want to but you seem to understand your tractor’s limits already. Just remember that it is a small utility tractor, not an excavator and not a bulldozer. Take small bites with the backhoe and still get the job done, just longer time than an excavator would take.
North Idaho Wolfman
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The pressure relief valve will keep the hydraulics safe.
But at what point the mechanical gives up is the real question.
You can't really put a number on that, different forces put different stresses on parts.
But at what point the mechanical gives up is the real question.
You can't really put a number on that, different forces put different stresses on parts.
I am probably or most likely not as experienced with Kubota as Russell and Wolfman. So take my post with a grain of salt:
I will say that I was raised to push the limits on equipment as you would push the limits on your body as a young person.
That final pull-up or push-up or sit-up, pushed you to the limit. You were out of 'gas'. Tractors are the same in context. Push it harder and you are sore or worse... and with your tractor you might bend or break things.
It sounds like you are doing the right thing.
I will say that I was raised to push the limits on equipment as you would push the limits on your body as a young person.
That final pull-up or push-up or sit-up, pushed you to the limit. You were out of 'gas'. Tractors are the same in context. Push it harder and you are sore or worse... and with your tractor you might bend or break things.
It sounds like you are doing the right thing.
Runs With Scissors
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L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
I have dug quite a few stumps out with my machine.
It sounds like your doing it correctly, or at least the same as me anyhow.
Depending on how many more stumps you have to do, I would highly recommend a ripper tooth.
I have the BXpanded version, and it will turn your BH into a pretty good "stump puller".
When you get good enough with it, you can use the serrations to "cut through" most of those stubborn roots that you are using the "Sawzall" for.
And since I am digging into your wallet, you may as well get the "quick attach" adaptor they sell as well.
It's only money.........
https://www.bxpanded.com/b-bh-ripper
https://www.bxpanded.com/B-quick-connect
It sounds like your doing it correctly, or at least the same as me anyhow.
Depending on how many more stumps you have to do, I would highly recommend a ripper tooth.
I have the BXpanded version, and it will turn your BH into a pretty good "stump puller".
When you get good enough with it, you can use the serrations to "cut through" most of those stubborn roots that you are using the "Sawzall" for.
And since I am digging into your wallet, you may as well get the "quick attach" adaptor they sell as well.
It's only money.........
https://www.bxpanded.com/b-bh-ripper
https://www.bxpanded.com/B-quick-connect
until the hydraulic parts fail...those K steel hydraulic lines on you SCUT/CUT are not built to the same quality as the ones on construction equipment.
Digging stumps is very hard work on little machines
85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Steve,
- you can juice up your hydraulics a bit, cost is very cheap too. Your 1750-1800 PSI can be bumped up to 2000 or a hair above without harm. HOWEVER - while this does help, it will place strain on all other parts of the machine and you.
I have two BX models - both have their respective PSI's up at 2000. Helps quite a bit, but I am careful too - like Clint Eastwood said " a man's got to know his limitations!" (Dirty Harry)
I agree with ol Scissors - the physics is where you are losing the battle. I wide bucket and a root places the force over the entire bucket face.
A ripper attachment will solve all of that - the same force will be applied to a smaller surface area and with those teeth it will rip or cut the root.
IF you plan on many stumps being removed - that ripper mentioned is the way to go IMO
I don't have a backhoe but by the sounds of it you are doing just what you need to do. At my skilled trades job we pushed our equipment to, and sometimes past it's limit. But that was company property and truth be known that's exactly what they wanted. But when you own the equipment, you treat it a lot different.
I have removed stumps with backhoe and bulldozer. If you have lots of stumps or trees, the dozer is by far the best , most efficient, and easiest.
Dozers are maybe not as expensive to rent as you might think, and super easy to operate. Cut new roads, clear fence lines, creek crossings, bury fallen barns, etc.
Just a thought
Dozers are maybe not as expensive to rent as you might think, and super easy to operate. Cut new roads, clear fence lines, creek crossings, bury fallen barns, etc.
Just a thought
fried1765
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Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
A frost/root ripper is a wonderful thing.I have dug quite a few stumps out with my machine.
It sounds like your doing it correctly, or at least the same as me anyhow.
Depending on how many more stumps you have to do, I would highly recommend a ripper tooth.
I have the BXpanded version, and it will turn your BH into a pretty good "stump puller".
When you get good enough with it, you can use the serrations to "cut through" most of those stubborn roots that you are using the "Sawzall" for.
And since I am digging into your wallet, you may as well get the "quick attach" adaptor they sell as well.
It's only money.........
https://www.bxpanded.com/b-bh-ripper
https://www.bxpanded.com/B-quick-connect
The OX Thumbs ripper on my L48TLB is a brute.
dirtydeed
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B2650 BH77, U27-4R2, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
OP - it sounds to me like you have the right idea...just take your time with any stump.
I have seen outriggers broken and a bucket cylinder bend while someone was removing a stump. The broken outrigger was primarily due ( I think) to the operator positioning the tractor/bh uphill from the stump. That caused the machine to be pulled more easily towards the stump. The outriggers slipped initially, but finally stopped slipping and subsequently bent/broke.
I also experienced some damage while removing a stubborn stump for a neighbor with my old BX23. I was in a hurry and broke a steel hydraulic line and also tweaked the frame a bit (fan started rubbing the shroud). The hydraulic reliefs don't always save you from damage.
I have seen outriggers broken and a bucket cylinder bend while someone was removing a stump. The broken outrigger was primarily due ( I think) to the operator positioning the tractor/bh uphill from the stump. That caused the machine to be pulled more easily towards the stump. The outriggers slipped initially, but finally stopped slipping and subsequently bent/broke.
I also experienced some damage while removing a stubborn stump for a neighbor with my old BX23. I was in a hurry and broke a steel hydraulic line and also tweaked the frame a bit (fan started rubbing the shroud). The hydraulic reliefs don't always save you from damage.