WANTED, Input on New Design
- Thread starter JayhawkerWinery
- Start date
I don't mind helping the average person out here and there on ideas or theories. But I'll be damn if I'm going to help anybody out with R&D and invest my time freely on a product he plans to make and sell on the market and make somebody else rich.
Honestly I think its rude as hell and in poor taste to come on here and asking for info like that. If its truly for YOUR tractor then its one thing but its pretty damn clear the way he is talking its something he wants to mass produce and sell.
We all get pretty pissed when people come on here and post spam and unwanted advertising, and this dude is basically doing the same thing in a subliminal way.
If you like it then yall work it out in a private message. Don't take advantage of people.
Honestly I think its rude as hell and in poor taste to come on here and asking for info like that. If its truly for YOUR tractor then its one thing but its pretty damn clear the way he is talking its something he wants to mass produce and sell.
We all get pretty pissed when people come on here and post spam and unwanted advertising, and this dude is basically doing the same thing in a subliminal way.
If you like it then yall work it out in a private message. Don't take advantage of people.
Give it up Eric, your just making a fool of yourself now. I've already explained, I'm not going into business, I don't run any company, and I'm not going into production on anything. I mentioned that my background is in design. I enjoy designing new things and have done several lighting projects in the past. What I saw was just an example to blend some of what I do professionally with something fun that's one of my hobbys (my tractor). I explained already that getting the parts produced and ordering components, etc. is easier in bulk than small quantity and considered doing more than just the set for my own tractor if I was going through everything. Before I invested in that I was curious as to what other people might think about them and if they might have good advice on how to improve what I had already designed. Trust me, whatever "advice" you've offered is worthless. As was mentioned, if you don't want to be a part of any of it then don't. I already said I won't every force you to purchase anything, but I would expect you to exercise some decency and respect and bow out of the discussion instead of continuing to poster imagined thoughts and allegations.
That's a great suggestion, I know that the CREE are also available with lenses to make them either wide angle or spots and that would give folks the option of adjustment mentioned earlier. When I have used them before they get insanely hot and usually need to be mechanically cooled. Waterproofing them might be an issue to, I power wash my tractor and don't want to take these things off just to hose it down. I was planning on potting the other LEDs in resin but the resin does have a temperature limit.
So far I've found many different drivers, most are pretty affordable, but I have been unable to find a reliable flasher/strobe unit. At least not one that would fit the design and budget.
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Aluminum housing and an nylon seal or maybe encase them in epoxy, I know that will take some pretty high heat. The ROPS will be part of the heat sink so I don't think you would have a huge problem with heat dissipation.
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LISTEN! You totally came off in your first post about mass producing these light boxes. NO WHERE at all was it stated in your very first post any of this was for YOUR tractor. It wasn't until I called you out on it that you started to back peddle and then throw in all this is for YOUR tractor!
I read loud and clear between the lines Hoss and a few others agree your coming off with this as a product you want to take to market. You VERY CLEARLY stated in your opening sentence that you have a background in design and making of industrial lighting.
I read loud and clear between the lines Hoss and a few others agree your coming off with this as a product you want to take to market. You VERY CLEARLY stated in your opening sentence that you have a background in design and making of industrial lighting.
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
From where I'm sitting it looks like that reply comes from your highly educated back ground and upbringing!
@jayhawker where you running your wires? most folks have a adversion to drilling holes in there ROPS
Calm down. Eric, you have stated how you feel; Jayhawker has clarified, and in light of everything, take him at his word. He is designing something that will serve him. He isn't trying to fleece anybody, just wanting to see what others prefer.From where I'm sitting it looks like that reply comes from your highly educated back ground and upbringing!
Wolfman, you are pretty new here- Eric gets pretty passionate about how he feels. I'm not defending or admonishing- I'm just stating. Most folks have gotten used to it. You are jumping into an argument when you don't have a dog in the fight, and stirring things up more. That isn't what we are about here. If Jayhawker and Eric have a problem with each other, let them settle it amongst themselves, preferably through PM.
You are also making an assumption that all ROPs bars are the same size, they are not. Not even within the same manufacture from year to year or model to model.
The design needs to be more universal.
BTW, I have been through the design, development, and marketing process. It's expensive.
The design needs to be more universal.
BTW, I have been through the design, development, and marketing process. It's expensive.
This was I tool I designed for a very specific purpose. Everyone seems interested until it's time to write the check.
I found a tool and die maker that specializes in prototypes, they worked with me through the first mock up, the production costs exceeded the cost of the initial build.
I know you said you have a buddy that will get the housings built.....talk is cheap until you produce the first 500-1000.
My first and only one cost a little more than $700 with production being just short of $2K per unit IIRC, with a minimum of 1000 units.
I found a tool and die maker that specializes in prototypes, they worked with me through the first mock up, the production costs exceeded the cost of the initial build.
I know you said you have a buddy that will get the housings built.....talk is cheap until you produce the first 500-1000.
My first and only one cost a little more than $700 with production being just short of $2K per unit IIRC, with a minimum of 1000 units.
I think it's a great idea and I have even searched for something like this in the past.
As far as the current whizzin match, if somebody wants to solicit ideas and invest time and money into a product- more power to them.
If somebody else doesn't like it and doesn't want to participate, then there are plenty of other threads on the forum and nobody says you have to post on any of them. Eric has contributed valuable info in other posts here, maybe this one just isn't his thing...
As far as the current whizzin match, if somebody wants to solicit ideas and invest time and money into a product- more power to them.
If somebody else doesn't like it and doesn't want to participate, then there are plenty of other threads on the forum and nobody says you have to post on any of them. Eric has contributed valuable info in other posts here, maybe this one just isn't his thing...
Why not make the light bar universal that it mounted on double sided carpet tape or stronger tape, wires are held in place with wire holder, can't think of part... then have set to a switch to turn on. No drilling needed. Wildfire had posted on his bx25 and made light bars, unfortunately he pulled the pictures.
Look I don't keep my tongue in my pocket about anything and I don't care who it is I'm talking too. When I see a situatuon arise where people are taken advantage of and somebody esle get's to profit deepely from their loss, you bet you're ass I'm going to stand up and say something about it PERIOD.
You can call me what you want, cuss me up one side and down the other and try to tell me how its supposed to look when I can plainly see how it REALLY IS. But like I said I'll be damn if I'm going to get people be taken advantage of while somebody else gets to profit from it.
When its all said and done this is a computer screen I'm looking at, I can shut it off and go to sleep at night and not loose a wink over it. Pardon me for looking out for people!
You can call me what you want, cuss me up one side and down the other and try to tell me how its supposed to look when I can plainly see how it REALLY IS. But like I said I'll be damn if I'm going to get people be taken advantage of while somebody else gets to profit from it.
When its all said and done this is a computer screen I'm looking at, I can shut it off and go to sleep at night and not loose a wink over it. Pardon me for looking out for people!
I built my own light bar using four 27W LED floods and an amber strobe. For switching I mounted a box using tape to the ROPS which allowed me to keep all switches within easy reach. I built a light mount that wraps around the top of the ROPS and does not require any modification to the ROPS. I would be interested in seeing what you come up. For me, the light bar is definitely a worthwhile investment. I would have purchased one if I could have found something I liked for a reasonable value. Good luck with your endeavor.
Front view showing Switches for front, rear, and amber flashers
Rear view showing exterior brand etching and clear and amber Resin potted LEDs
Pair of side mounted fixtures showing wire running down ROPS. I still want to add a smaller less intense LED to at least one side to illuminate the rear PTO and 3 point. For now I'm basing the design off the measurements I took off of my BX, the different sized ROPS would be problematic in this type of design. I don't know whether it's better to just oversize it a bit or go to a more "clamp" style that might accommodate more than one size. I'm trying to run all of the wires internally so they stay protected and resin potting all the LEDs so they are waterproof but the two pieces that come apart around the ROPS need to plug into each other somehow. I ordered a few different sized plugs to try and get an idea of what I can get to fit.
I guess the wire was always there I just missed it in the org post. You could make it convertible if someone were to want hidden wires. I wouldn't have a issue with a small hole for a wire, the factory drills holes to add the safety data plate to the bottom of the rops
I take a very different view of this than you. I don't have the time, tools, skills, or inclination to design/build something like this for myself. If I come across someone who is willing to take my design suggestions into consideration and make a product that is almost exactly what I want, I WILL pay for it.
I don't understand the reason for your anger. Is he potentially stealing business from you? He didn't come on here and say "This is what I built, you have to buy it." I am on a number of other forums for non-tractor related activities, and appreciate it when manufacturers look for input from potential clients. It shows that they want to make the products that people actually want/need.
I just bought a BX25D, and have already found the factory lighting to be brutal. The FEL pretty much blocks all light from the headlights. I want lights mounted high to clear the bucket, wide to clear the sides, and similar to the rear for backhoe work.
Lighting low down to the rear would probably also be good for plowing snow with the 3ph.
White is my preferred colour for most work, but a yellow tint would likely be good while plowing snow while it is still snowing.
As all my work is being done in my own yard, I have no need for flashing amber/strobes.
I liked the idea of the first pic you put up on this thread, with the housing mounted on the top of the ROPS. That would allow the two middle lights to aim forward in a combo spot/flood pattern, with the two outer lights angled down more with flood patterns. A similar pattern could be done to the back, but I think the back would benefit from some adjustability (different requirements for backhoe than for plowing).
I was thinking about buying individual lights and figuring out a mount for them all, set up the way I just described. Using LED driving/fog lights, my cost was into the $800 range. So, I would be VERY interested if you could do something like this for $200 or less and get similar light output.
Lighting low down to the rear would probably also be good for plowing snow with the 3ph.
White is my preferred colour for most work, but a yellow tint would likely be good while plowing snow while it is still snowing.
As all my work is being done in my own yard, I have no need for flashing amber/strobes.
I liked the idea of the first pic you put up on this thread, with the housing mounted on the top of the ROPS. That would allow the two middle lights to aim forward in a combo spot/flood pattern, with the two outer lights angled down more with flood patterns. A similar pattern could be done to the back, but I think the back would benefit from some adjustability (different requirements for backhoe than for plowing).
I was thinking about buying individual lights and figuring out a mount for them all, set up the way I just described. Using LED driving/fog lights, my cost was into the $800 range. So, I would be VERY interested if you could do something like this for $200 or less and get similar light output.
Front view showing Switches for front, rear, and amber flashers
Rear view showing exterior brand etching and clear and amber Resin potted LEDs
Pair of side mounted fixtures showing wire running down ROPS. I still want to add a smaller less intense LED to at least one side to illuminate the rear PTO and 3 point. For now I'm basing the design off the measurements I took off of my BX, the different sized ROPS would be problematic in this type of design. I don't know whether it's better to just oversize it a bit or go to a more "clamp" style that might accommodate more than one size. I'm trying to run all of the wires internally so they stay protected and resin potting all the LEDs so they are waterproof but the two pieces that come apart around the ROPS need to plug into each other somehow. I ordered a few different sized plugs to try and get an idea of what I can get to fit.