Help needed on a decision about rear hydraulics

[Plan B outdoors]

Hi guys...I want to get a ditch/tilt flail mower but first need to put a top and tilt hydraulic on it. Is summit my "only option" for a kit? I'd also need the remotes but they have too many options so I'm not exactly sure what I need. I really don't want to pay Kubota 3k to install so I'm relying on friends for the install. Want to make sure I have all the right stuff for them.

Thanks.

 

[rh74]

The Kubota rear remotes will be the cleanest install. You don't need Kubota to install the hardware. You do however need to talk with your Kubota sales person and have them order the remote hardware as a whole goods kit. Doing it this way saves a lot of money vs going to the parts counter and ordering the items individually.

FYI the Kubota kit will keep the rear remotes isolated from the loader circuit as well. I installed the Kubota rear remotes on my LX2610 last year, it took about 4 hours to do.

Landpride sells a top and tilt cylinder kit. Talk to your Kubota sales person about the whole goods kit.

 

[TheOldHokie]

The Kubota rear remotes will be the cleanest install. You don't need Kubota to install the hardware. You do however need to talk with your Kubota sales person and have them order the remote hardware as a whole goods kit. Doing it this way saves a lot of money vs going to the parts counter and ordering the items individually.

FYI the Kubota kit will keep the rear remotes isolated from the loader circuit as well. I installed the Kubota rear remotes on my LX2610 last year, it took about 4 hours to do.

Landpride sells a top and tilt cylinder kit. Talk to your Kubota sales person about the whole goods kit.

You have other options. You can roll your own for $400-$500 and its no more work than OEM or Summit.

Dan

 

[TheOldHokie]

The Kubota rear remotes will be the cleanest install. You don't need Kubota to install the hardware. You do however need to talk with your Kubota sales person and have them order the remote hardware as a whole goods kit. Doing it this way saves a lot of money vs going to the parts counter and ordering the items individually.

FYI the Kubota kit will keep the rear remotes isolated from the loader circuit as well. I installed the Kubota rear remotes on my LX2610 last year, it took about 4 hours to do.

Landpride sells a top and tilt cylinder kit. Talk to your Kubota sales person about the whole goods kit.

The OEM kit is not isolated from the loader circuit. It just connects internally rather than externally. An external connection with generic valve and hoses is proably faster and definitly cheaper..

Dan

 

[Mikeymotorbikey]

You could roll your own as several of us have done. It's cheaper but requires a little more ground work. May not be as integrated as the factory setup.
I mounted a 3 spool valve on my fender / ROPs. That would give you Top, and Tilt and a spare.
I can give you specifics if you desire.

 

[old and tired]

I mounted my 3 spools on top of the FEL valve, was able to use the hoses from the old FEL valve and screw them into the new valve. Just had to buy 1 hose to tie in from the old Power Beyond (high pressure out) port and connect it into the the new valve's IN port (P).

What you'll need is "Open Center with Power Beyond" The power beyond thing is a sleeve/plug that usually screws into the port labeled "BY" (or listed differently) the high pressure out port. Sometimes it comes with the valve, other times, need to be ordered separately ~$20.

How clean of an install do you want vs. how much money you want to spend???

First photo, is NOT mine... it was done much nicer than mine but same location.

 

[rh74]

The OEM kit is not isolated from the loader circuit. It just connects internally rather than externally. An external connection with generic valve and hoses is proably faster and definitly cheaper..

Dan

I realize that the system uses the same pump. The point of being isolated is that you don't have to take apart existing working hydraulic components and add fittings, hoses, or piping. You also don't have to make mounting brackets or other mods. If you add all of the extra work did you save money?

 

[TheOldHokie]

I realize that the system uses the same pump. The point of being isolated is that you don't have to take apart existing working hydraulic components and add fittings, hoses, or piping. You also don't have to make mounting brackets or other mods. If you add all of the extra work did you save money?

For OEM valves you have to remove the factory blanking plate on the rear hydrsulic outlet and install an adapter manifold for the valve stack followed bu the valves, end cover snd couplers.

For DIY you have to rrmove ONE power beyond pipe and connect two short hoses from those ports to a valve bolted to the fender. Then rum a third return hose to an existing port on the side of the transmission.

Exact same hydraulic circuit but OEM is prettier and definitrly more expensive. Parts for a 2 spool DIY monoblock valve are roughly $300 vs $1200 for OEM. And unlike OEM you can add additional spools for $100 each.

I like pretty but I also like cost savings and a third outlet. Thats the tradeoff.

Dan

 

[Mikeymotorbikey]

The Kubota rear remotes will be the cleanest install. You don't need Kubota to install the hardware. You do however need to talk with your Kubota sales person and have them order the remote hardware as a whole goods kit. Doing it this way saves a lot of money vs going to the parts counter and ordering the items individually.

FYI the Kubota kit will keep the rear remotes isolated from the loader circuit as well. I installed the Kubota rear remotes on my LX2610 last year, it took about 4 hours to do.

Landpride sells a top and tilt cylinder kit. Talk to your Kubota sales person about the whole goods kit.

I really wanted to go this way. But once you price the kits . . . well let's jut say I'm cheap.

With TheOldHokies help, I now have a third function with hard lines out the loader arm, a 3-spool valve on the fender, a 2 spool valve near the stock remote location, and hard plumbed Top and Tilt.
I've got approximately $700 in all of that. Granted I already owned several of the components, hose, tubing, some fittings.

 

[icehorse]

I've had my L3901 for 3 years now and I love it. Every once in a while I wish I got the L4701.

When I got my L3901 I had the dealer install top and tilt. I mostly love it, I use it a lot! But I also feel that it sometimes maxxes out my tractor, especially when topping/tilting heavier implements.

In other words there are times - with my heavier implements - that I wish I could quickly go back to manual 3-point.

 

[TheOldHokie]

First photo, is NOT mine... it was done much nicer than mine but same location.

Looks familiar

Dan

 

[Plan B outdoors]

Wow, this is all a lot to wrap my head around.
I don't need pretty....I need cost effective that still works.
Any specs, shopping lists, websites, would be appreciated, thanks!

My kubota dealer wanted $2800 just for the top and tilt kit/hardware. Needless to say, that's a lot....

 

[TheOldHokie]

Wow, this is all a lot to wrap my head around.
I don't need pretty....I need cost effective that still works.
Any specs, shopping lists, websites, would be appreciated, thanks!

My kubota dealer wanted $2800 just for the top and tilt kit/hardware. Needless to say, that's a lot....

I can help with sourcing things but you have to decide what you want in the way of valves.

If not going OEM I would suggest a three spool monoblock mounted directly on the right fender. Put the outlets on the valve just like the OEM kits and you are good to go. A little lumpy looking but 100% functional. I will guess roughly $400 with 3/8" couplers and hose.

Dan

 

[Plan B outdoors]

I can help with sourcing things but you have to decide what you want in the way of valves.

If not going OEM I would suggest a three spool monoblock mounted directly on the right fender. Put the outlets on the valve just like the OEM kits and you are good to go. A little lumpy looking but 100% functional. I will guess roughly $400 with 3/8" couplers and hose.

Dan

I should probably note....I've got an enclosed cab on mine. How much will this change things?

 

[TheOldHokie]

I should probably note....I've got an enclosed cab on mine. How much will this change things?

Significantly in terms of placement of the valve and outlets. It will also modestly increase cost. Can you post a picture of tge right side of the operator station showing the control console and sides of the cab? Take it from a distance rather than close up.

Dan

 

[Russell King]

You can get a kit from https://www.fitritehydraulics.com/
The owner is @MtnViewRanch (member here). Lead time for cylinders may still be long?

 

[McMXi]

Exact same hydraulic circuit but OEM is prettier and definitrly more expensive.

I like pretty but I also like cost savings and a third outlet. Thats the tradeoff.

Given the cost of these tractors and the intention to keep and use them for decades, saving a few dollars on something that is going to annoy the heck out of me just isn't worth it. Those hoses running outside of the operators platform and under the tractor would drive me nuts.

When I added Summit Hydraulics multipliers to both tractors I put a lot of effort into making them look as integrated as possible. Function, ergonomics and aesthetics matter to me. I often undo/redo something because I'm not happy with the appearance, but clearly everyone has their own ideas as to what they can live with.

 

[Plan B outdoors]

Significantly in terms of placement of the valve and outlets. It will also modestly increase cost. Can you post a picture of tge right side of the operator station showing the control console and sides of the cab? Take it from a distance rather than close up.

Dan

I took the doors off for the summer but you get the point...