I am about ready to toss a match to this thing,, tok it to a shop they said nothing wrong it started 2nd pull. I have been fussing with this POS for an hour and it will not start. Anybody have any hints before I trash the damn thing????
ANybody else have one of these POS sthil 211's
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Russell King
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I have a similar saw. But the pull start system is probably what makes it hard to start, or the choke system.
Both are new technology and are not used exactly like old ones (so us old guys get frustrated with them). The best suggestion is to read the manual throughly for the starting sequence. On mine it goes something like this: Fill gas tank with the 50:1 engineered fuel (not using gas station fuel with ethanol for sure). Fill the oil tank since it has leaked out and is empty. AND run it over to make a mess to clean up! Then pump the little button on the side until it gets full of fuel and then about 5 more times (it shouldn’t flood the carb regardless of how long you pump it). Then set the choke to the start position but that requires that the throttle safety is moved and the throttle is pulled to the full on position and the choke is pushed more down while holding it full throttle. Then put your saw on the ground and put your foot into the handle loop and (on mine) pull the starter cord SLOWLY for about half to 2/3 of the length. Then it should magically start spinning the engine any you give it a fast tug. If it doesn’t sound like it is firing at all repeat until it sort of sounds like if fired BUT didn’t start. Then adjust the choke to the mid setting or IT WILL FLOOD! After moving the choke, give it more slow pulls with a tug at the end and it should start and run at fairly high RPMS until you give it a bit of gas and let it warm up at lower RPM.
If you are pulling the starter cord slowly cord like you have for most of your life it probably won’t ever start. I have to restrain myself from doing that after about the first five minutes of trying to get it started, then remember the process.
Also, the air filter seems to get clogged up on mine and it is an expensive proprietary design so you may want to replace it if the saw is hard to start and won’t rev up to speed easily.
Both are new technology and are not used exactly like old ones (so us old guys get frustrated with them). The best suggestion is to read the manual throughly for the starting sequence. On mine it goes something like this: Fill gas tank with the 50:1 engineered fuel (not using gas station fuel with ethanol for sure). Fill the oil tank since it has leaked out and is empty. AND run it over to make a mess to clean up! Then pump the little button on the side until it gets full of fuel and then about 5 more times (it shouldn’t flood the carb regardless of how long you pump it). Then set the choke to the start position but that requires that the throttle safety is moved and the throttle is pulled to the full on position and the choke is pushed more down while holding it full throttle. Then put your saw on the ground and put your foot into the handle loop and (on mine) pull the starter cord SLOWLY for about half to 2/3 of the length. Then it should magically start spinning the engine any you give it a fast tug. If it doesn’t sound like it is firing at all repeat until it sort of sounds like if fired BUT didn’t start. Then adjust the choke to the mid setting or IT WILL FLOOD! After moving the choke, give it more slow pulls with a tug at the end and it should start and run at fairly high RPMS until you give it a bit of gas and let it warm up at lower RPM.
If you are pulling the starter cord slowly cord like you have for most of your life it probably won’t ever start. I have to restrain myself from doing that after about the first five minutes of trying to get it started, then remember the process.
Also, the air filter seems to get clogged up on mine and it is an expensive proprietary design so you may want to replace it if the saw is hard to start and won’t rev up to speed easily.
I have a Stihl pole saw that was like this. I wound up changing out the carburetor and its been good for 2 years now no problems. I do drain out gas and run it dry now, the only Stihl I have to do on. I have 2 other saws, weed Wacker and backpack blower that run as good as the day I bought them.
I have a husky with the computer carb and it starts and runs perfectly without any issues cold weather hot weather whatever.
That is UNLESS you do not follow the exact starting procedure, then it will refuse to do anything kinda like getting some fun from your wife when she is pissed at you.
That is UNLESS you do not follow the exact starting procedure, then it will refuse to do anything kinda like getting some fun from your wife when she is pissed at you.
RCW
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BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Skeets - I bought a MS211 years ago used. Doesn’t have the computerized controller. I don’t have a manual or looked for one.
It’s cold-blooded, but always started and run.
I don’t like the way the choke works on these newer saws. That might be part of my issue.
There’s an extra position that I’ve never had on an older Stihl saw.
Ran Stihl saws for 45 years.
I think I’ve never gotten used to the way the switch works for the choke, etc.
Only problem I had was it leaked oil, and I fixed that.
I probably know the answers, but I’ll ask:
Do you use ethanol-free gas or a pre-mix?
Gap on spark plug okay?
Air filter clean?
It’s cold-blooded, but always started and run.
I don’t like the way the choke works on these newer saws. That might be part of my issue.
There’s an extra position that I’ve never had on an older Stihl saw.
Ran Stihl saws for 45 years.
I think I’ve never gotten used to the way the switch works for the choke, etc.
Only problem I had was it leaked oil, and I fixed that.
I probably know the answers, but I’ll ask:
Do you use ethanol-free gas or a pre-mix?
Gap on spark plug okay?
Air filter clean?
RCW yes to all of the above, and I try to use ethanol free in all my small motors if I can find it.. Still wont start, going to another dealer, they may have to replace some parts the damn thing fell out of the bucket a couple times,, grrrrrrrrrrrrr Maybe I should check the blinker fluid 
I had problems starting with a Stihl chain saw and a Stihl strimmer. In both cases replacing the spark plug fixed it. Checked the old plugs and found the gap too small (I always thought the gap goes wider over time). Widened the gap on the old plug, put it in, starts fine. 
Ethanol fuel is a problem when, say older than 4-6 months. That makes starting difficult too. Cannot get anything else here but there is fuel stabiliser, that really works for long term storage of fuel with ethanol.
If using ethanol fuel fill up tank when not in use. Reduces tank "breathing" and hence reduces absorbtion of moisture by the ethanol.
Ethanol fuel is a problem when, say older than 4-6 months. That makes starting difficult too. Cannot get anything else here but there is fuel stabiliser, that really works for long term storage of fuel with ethanol.
If using ethanol fuel fill up tank when not in use. Reduces tank "breathing" and hence reduces absorbtion of moisture by the ethanol.
I have a Stihl, 211 I think, and it is a hard starter and leaks bar oil always... but it is a good saw. I wouldn't throw it away.
When I'm in an 'Mother Earth, earth is god State' where I can't get ethanol free gas, I buy the Stihl premix gallon cans. It is pricey, but good stuff.
When I'm in an 'Mother Earth, earth is god State' where I can't get ethanol free gas, I buy the Stihl premix gallon cans. It is pricey, but good stuff.
I've got the 271. I put the choke switch all the way down, or maybe its up.....As soon as that bastard makes a noise that resembles it wanting to start, I move the switch up one. Soon as it fires, i knock the choke off.
If I pull on that thing a half a pull after its made its starting noise on the far choke setting, it will flood. I set her down and head for the house.
If I pull on that thing a half a pull after its made its starting noise on the far choke setting, it will flood. I set her down and head for the house.
armylifer
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BX1860, FEL, RCK54P MMM, BB1548 Box Scraper, Quick Hitch, Piranha Bar, BX6315
I have a Stihl chainsaw that is 34 years old. It has never started cold on less than 7 pulls, even from day one. After it is warm, it starts on one pull. I have always thought that was the nature of this beast. I have never used ethanol in it. It does an excellent job at anything I have ever cut with it. I would never think about giving it away or throwing it away. I don't know what the newer Stihl chainsaws are like but I have been happy with the one I have. I think it is just like me, a little hard to start when cold.
Outnumbered
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Equipment
Kubota L3901, FEL, BB1260, RCF2060, FDR2572, Forks, 55" Grapple, 5' Tiller .....
I have a 30+ year old 029 Farm Boss and you must start it just like you stated. If you even think about a second pull after it sputters the first time you might as well set it down for 3-4 hours. It has always been that way since I bought it new back in the early 90's. Reliable as hell as long as you respect it's start sequence.
Outnumbered
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L3901, FEL, BB1260, RCF2060, FDR2572, Forks, 55" Grapple, 5' Tiller .....
I don’t know this helps or not…
I have 5 still engines (all commercial products except a farm boss) and they all start the same…doesn’t matter hot outside or cold outside.
this is my SOP:
0. Top off fuel and prime the bulb (if there is a bulb)
1. Set full choke and tigger locked
2. Normally on 2nd or 3rd pull it will cough alittle trying to start.
3. After the cough back the choke off, and next pull it starts like magic.
newer engines or older engines, doesn’t matter all start the same in my situation.
Only difference between my five still engines is the 460 had a decompression valve, and after the cough, it needs reset, but it will start on the next pull…if you forget to reset the decompression valve, it reminds you.
edit: when’s the last time air cleaner check or replaced? Maybe check that? I’m Not familiar with that model if serviceable or cartridge type or what you have, make sure clean….or don’t.
I have 5 still engines (all commercial products except a farm boss) and they all start the same…doesn’t matter hot outside or cold outside.
this is my SOP:
0. Top off fuel and prime the bulb (if there is a bulb)
1. Set full choke and tigger locked
2. Normally on 2nd or 3rd pull it will cough alittle trying to start.
3. After the cough back the choke off, and next pull it starts like magic.
newer engines or older engines, doesn’t matter all start the same in my situation.
Only difference between my five still engines is the 460 had a decompression valve, and after the cough, it needs reset, but it will start on the next pull…if you forget to reset the decompression valve, it reminds you.
edit: when’s the last time air cleaner check or replaced? Maybe check that? I’m Not familiar with that model if serviceable or cartridge type or what you have, make sure clean….or don’t.
Last edited:
Blue2Orange
Active member
Equipment
BX2380 with LA344S & QH05. SB1051. SG0554. BB1248. RB0560, Vassar dirt bucket
Not familiar with Sthil or newer chainsaws. Have been using the same Jonsered chainsaw for the past ~30 years. Reliable but like me a bit less tolerant to extreme temperature changes. . If flooding is an issue. Have flooded the Jon a few times. Hard way to un flood is remove the spark plug and just pull the chord. Beware of spitting fuel. Simple way is to hold the throttle lever down to max and pull a few times. Beware of the chainsaw suddenly starting. Maybe something not possible with new starting systems?
Premium no alcohol fuel only. I do add stabilizer to the fuel in can holding unmixed fuel. Different small fuel can for the 50:1 mixed. Run the saw until it runs empty. New spark plugs, bars, chains have been it for parts needing replacement.
Premium no alcohol fuel only. I do add stabilizer to the fuel in can holding unmixed fuel. Different small fuel can for the 50:1 mixed. Run the saw until it runs empty. New spark plugs, bars, chains have been it for parts needing replacement.
NCL4701
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Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
All my Stihl stuff starts as described by @GrumpyFarmer. All mine have primer bulbs. I’ve worked with some guys that have newer Stihl saws that don’t have primer bulbs. They all struggle to get them going first time of the day.
I have an older Husqvarna arborist saw like that. It’s fine if you run it every day. If you leave it sitting for more than a few days it’s a bear to start. Pretty reliably fires somewhere between the 35th and 40th pull when cold. Starts and stays running about the 50th pull. It’s been at least 5 years since I’ve used it. I don’t run my saw, weedeater, blower, or anything else every day so I don’t have much use for a small gas engine without a primer bulbs.
I have an older Husqvarna arborist saw like that. It’s fine if you run it every day. If you leave it sitting for more than a few days it’s a bear to start. Pretty reliably fires somewhere between the 35th and 40th pull when cold. Starts and stays running about the 50th pull. It’s been at least 5 years since I’ve used it. I don’t run my saw, weedeater, blower, or anything else every day so I don’t have much use for a small gas engine without a primer bulbs.
Man maybe I got a chinlee knock off, I choke it and I can hardly pull the rope and that aint never been a coff, even tried pushing it half choke maybe a putt, after 15 or 20 pulls Im toast and it dont have a compression release or a trigger lock. If it wants to run it does well,,, its just getting it to run. Another dealer is getting it this afternoon, I know there will be parts replaced after it fell off the tractor!
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
My Stihl is EXACTLY the same way.
If you F-up and pull that cord after it "farts" with the choke on, your screwed....it's flooded.
I have to start mine with my hearing protection removed, so I can hear it "fart".